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SBR Cast Manifold, anyone else?

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madness, a better manifold is not a priority. do other things first, cause you can still use the evo16g with the stock manifold and make great power gains. get the fuel control and actual turbo on and tuned, then worry about things like better manifolds and such.

im still running stock dp and catalytic. those are next to go.
 
I'm waiting to get dsmlink for fuel control and tuning. I wanted the manifold for even faster spool up.
 
Yes I have a T-25. It will help spool up as long as it does not get too large theres no such thing as not enough backpressure with a turbo car.
 
MitzMadness said:
Yes I have a T-25. It will help spool up as long as it does not get too large theres no such thing as not enough backpressure with a turbo car.
Click to expand...


eh help spool on a t25 eh? dont even worrie about the manny for now focus on other things.
 
Ya I know the manny was not a priorty but I had said that I wanted to stick with the T-25 because I hit a finance hard spot and I didn't think I'd be able to save up for a Evo16G for a while specially with all the work I was gonna have done to it because it will prolly be my last turbo that I'll be using. But I've been convinced into getting the 14b so I'll go from there. Responding to an earlier post. You don't want backpressure with a turbo, the more backpressure the longer it takes to spool, that's why you get a bigger exhaust to eliminate backpressure. Now when dealing with a SC, or N/A car you want to keep some backpressure otherwise you will lose alot of power on the low end. A turbocharged car does not have this problem. I'm sure there's a more techinical way to explain this but until I go to school for a mechanic , this answer will be suitable.
 
are you responding to yourself, because you were the one that said you cant have enough back pressure.....
 
no, backpressure on any car is a bad thing.

what you are trying to think of for a N/A car is scavenging. pulses of exhaust gas. . . blah blah blah. there's like 5098347509843 posts on this and no one ever seems to know it.

as for the manifold, forget it for now. get a 14b port it, support mods, and fuel tuning.

then go for upping the manifold/O2 housing.

not to mention you can prolly pick up a 14b for much cheaper than that brand new SBR manny.
 
Ya ya ya I'm getting the 14b. And I really don't think theres such thign as no backpressure for a turbo at least you'll never be able to lower the backpressure to a point where it would hurt the performance of a turbo car.
 
when you're talking about an exhaust 3 or 3 1/2 inches large, backbressure is almost zero.

on a turbo car, the turbo is what causes backpressure, in a minimal ammount.

but by opening up the exhaust wide, or removing it compleatly at the DP it becomes almost freeflowing, letting the turbo spool in almost no time because it has little restriction.
 
aside from being real real fast.

im sure there is. boost spike is a possibility. but im not talking about like. . . touch the gas and you're at 20psi. there's still spool time and lag depending on the turbo.

all in all, to get your question back on track.

you don't need a manny right now. upgrade your turbo, get fuel controll. and if you need to, try to find an evo manny. or port your stock.
 
I'll prolly port the stock for the meantime, as in fuel control do you mean FPR,fuel pump,or Apexi SAFC? If I never plan on going over an EVO 16G what would you suggest. I will prolly get dsmlink eventually too.
 
mitzmadness - take some time to do some searching on this site. 999999999999 people have a 16g and list their mods and fuel control everywhere. You don't need that sbr manifold ... a ported 2g is fine for that turbo and a hell of a lot cheaper. At least get injectors and an safc for fuel control. I also recommend a strong clutch as yours will break once you start making a little more power. Once all that is taken care of then get yourself a 3" turboback. Now upgrade all your intercooler piping and buy the 16g and slap it on. Once that's done do some tuning with a logger or go to a dyno. If you are asking these questions dsmlink is not for you and if you plan to do mods to your car such as that exhaust manifold you need to upgrade your turbo first or at least at the same time. On a t25 it won't help you.
 
I'm auto.... no clutch to break. Dsmlink is way better. I'm kinda looking to maximize the Evo16G because I'm gonna be using this car for street/strip/track so I'll need somethign pretty responsive.
 
98TalonTSi said:
The reason the flange is larger is so that when you run larger turbos, you don't have to dent the water pipe.
Click to expand...

The flange is bigger so that you don't have to dent the water pipe as much as you do with a stock manifold. I just installed my PTE GT30R and I still had to dent it a little to clear the compressor housing, but not very much. I have this manifold and it has been awesome so far. Nothing like seeing 22+ psi of boost by about 3400 rpm on a full 3" exaust.... :sneaky:

-Steve
 
:thumb: I love my SBR Manifold. I got mine custom ported by a friend of mine and then port matched it to the head. The exhaust runners are so large now they are about the size of my ported intake mani runners! Quality is awesome. I am not going to take any chances though with rusting I am painting it with some black high temp 1200 Degree motor paint. Very worth the money in my opinion.
 
Does anyone know how to properly apply hi-temp paint to something. I know I did this to headers before and the i left the paint to try for a day and it melted off the next day and once it dried it flaked. Any idea on how to do this? I might as well spray my manifold when I take it off for the turbo.
 
MitzMadness said:
Does anyone know how to properly apply hi-temp paint to something. I know I did this to headers before and the i left the paint to try for a day and it melted off the next day and once it dried it flaked. Any idea on how to do this? I might as well spray my manifold when I take it off for the turbo.
Click to expand...

Sorta off topic, but you want to make sure the surface is good and clean before you paint, if the piece is new then you want to clean it with a solvent to get any grease etc. off, if its old/rusted its a good idea to sandblast it first. When you put on hitemp paint you want to put it on light, 1 or 2 coats. Basically just enough to get it to cover. If you put it on heavy it will, like you said flake off.
 
another good mod for the atuos is the shift kit 75$ from trans lab, supposed to drop your quarter mile time by roughly 1/2 second. i have yet to do this but have read many positive posts on it. will be doing mine later this spring hopefully along with a upgraded TC.
 
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