The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Rusted Fuel Pump

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

StManTiS

10+ Year Contributor
71
0
Dec 3, 2009
Stamford, Connecticut
So I wanted to remove my fuel pump but haven't been able to get the fitting to come off no matter how hard I try or how much WD40 I use. I've heard of cutting the hard line, but then what? And where should it be cut?
 
did you put the block of wood on one side of the wrench ? Let some type of wd40 or something sitting on it over night , keep soaking it, mine were so badly stuck it kinked the line on top the sending unit and under the car, I ended up ordereing the tank to rail kit from stm , and check my pictures, that's how I fixed my sending unti from kinkin the top line
 
I cut mine. Used some fuel hose I had from work, and it doesnt leak. I also cut the other end of the fitting off as well.
 
Well I have tried letting WD soaked and have put so much force into it that the hard line is now twisted ><

I'll give it another try with the wooden bock idea, but i dunno if that'll do anything...its a real rusted PoS

Well I broke an inch thick piece of wood, but putting a wrench under it worked...so now I got my pump out and its a mess. Like a seven year installed a walbro ><
 
If you do want a new line, they are surprisingly cheap to get from the dealer. I bought the clutch hard line for my 1g for $11 plus shipping.
 
Could a badly wired or poorly grounded fuel pump cause a car to run very lean, like stalling out lean? Could a bad fuel filter?
 
If you do want a new line, they are surprisingly cheap to get from the dealer. I bought the clutch hard line for my 1g for $11 plus shipping.

The hard lines on the fuel pump assembly are welded to it. If you bent/twist/break them you either replace the assembly or custom rig something. The assembly is $400+ from the dealer.
 
LOL a bad bad fuel filter can. So can a bad fuel pump, FPR. A lot of things, I always start with the cheap/obvious when I troubleshoot. I like to work my way up to the headaches rather than start one for no reason. I'd say a bad ground/wiring the pump wouldn't work at all. Well if its not badly twisted you can just test your luck... start it up stuff a shop towels under the fitting, e-brake and check. If it does not leak and you don't to spend the money on peace of mind then always be weary of that possible fuel leak.
 
Last edited:
The pump is a Walbro GS341...I have replaced the FPR already.

But which walbro is that and do I need something special for it to work?
 
That is a walbro255 and no you dont need any special work done to it as long as it works.
 
Whoops, I didn't know the fuel line was that involved. OP made it sound like they were banjo bolted to the fuel pump, but I guess that part is on the other end.
 
A flare nut wrench is the proper tool to use for this job. It "grasps" the fitting on the tubing from all sides as opposed to just two sides on a regular wrench.

For the price of a flare nut wrench, its a good investment.
 
Whoops, I didn't know the fuel line was that involved. OP made it sound like they were banjo bolted to the fuel pump, but I guess that part is on the other end.

The only banjo fitting is on the top of the fuel filter up front. Read the VFAQ for more on swapping the pump on a 1G AWD. Walbro 1G fuel pump kit install
 
I had to cut the fitting off on the sender, then i cut the fuel line and use hose clamps and fuel line to put it all back together. It worked out fine. if you were looking to mod the car heavily i would suggest ordering the STM kit it is relativity inexpensive and is good Quality.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top