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Rust on cylinder wall

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Biscuit33

Proven Member
31
1
Jun 17, 2013
Port Neches, Texas
I just got my eclipse after years of it sitting in someones yard, I got it home by a car dolley and once I pulled the head I learned it had rust on the cylinder walls. I didn't expect it to be perfect but Im just wondering if I can get it done myself or have to bring It to a machine shop
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I just got my eclipse after years of it sitting in someones yard, I got it home by a car dolley and once I pulled the head I learned it had rust on the cylinder walls. I didn't expect it to be perfect but Im just wondering if I can get it done myself or have to bring It to a machine shop
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op
All that rust shows that the elwments were getting to that surface if it was me, id get it cleaned up by a shop.
 
All that rust shows that the elwments were getting to that surface if it was me, id get it cleaned up by a shop.

I second this motion you will not get the ring seal you need for a healthy engine if you don't have it done right. Cylinder #4 shows signs of up and down wear You will not regret doing it right;) Most dsmers will skip on doing it right and when the engine yield results other than desired the engine is blamed not the process!:|
 
To play devils advocate, what are you going to be using the motor for? If it's just to tide you over until a built motor goes in, I'd be tempted to clean the bulk of the rust off by hand, and then drop the pistons down to the bottom of the stroke. Then take a hone tool and just hone the top of the bore.

Not perfect, or ideal, but (quite frankly) that's likely what many shops would do as well.

Unless it's already a built motor it's probably not worth totally pulling down to fix and reassemble with the existing parts.
 
To play devils advocate, what are you going to be using the motor for? If it's just to tide you over until a built motor goes in, I'd be tempted to clean the bulk of the rust off by hand, and then drop the pistons down to the bottom of the stroke. Then take a hone tool and just hone the top of the bore.

Not perfect, or ideal, but (quite frankly) that's likely what many shops would do as well.

Unless it's already a built motor it's probably not worth totally pulling down to fix and reassemble with the existing parts.

I hope you are referring to deglazing the cylinder and not using an actual hone to take metal material off the cyl walls. People get the two confused all the time.

But like you said if you need to get the car going witch i assume you don't because of how long it's been sitting. I would get some 3m scotch bright pads and clean the deck then deglaze the cylinders. The rust looks to be above where the fire ring would contact so I think you will be ok once cleaned up. After that's done I would put a measured amount of oil on top of the pistons overnight and check to see how much its leaking before I would go any farther. You don't want to waste too much time if the rings are shot.
 
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Unless the walls are pitted I would guess a hone would take care of it.
 
If this is a blow or go build, then yes scuff the rust off and go on.

If this is an engine you want to get a decent service life out of, pull it and go through it.

Looks like #1 cyl has a place that the ring had rusted to the bore, that leaves pits.

If you want it to last, it needs bored.
 
If this is a blow or go build, then yes scuff the rust off and go on.

If this is an engine you want to get a decent service life out of, pull it and go through it.

Looks like #1 cyl has a place that the ring had rusted to the bore, that leaves pits.

If you want it to last, it needs bored.
 
I want it to be a street car, I plan on turboing it and ive been reading on a forum about what I need to do its the exact same car I have. A lot of people have told me my head is in good shape because it was rebuilt and so is the transmission (supposedly) but they still need to be cleaned out. I just want to do everything right and I don't want to cut corners, I want it done correctly so ill have it put into a machine shop. but can I ask a question that's not about the rust?
 
Thats what the fourm is for, so ask your question that is not about rust.
 
I didn't want to annoy anyone with the questions, but what is the size of the stock 4g63 nt pistons as in like when I get the shop to machine the head I can just get it bored out to after market piston size?

85mm or 3.346457in bore:cool:
 
You bore the block not the head.

Since you want to go turbo, you may as well go with turbo pistons when you build the short block, and set the ring gap to turbo specs. Then that much will be done when you do the turbo swap.

But keep in mind with the turbo pistons you will have lower compression, and feel slug slow.
 
You bore the block not the head.

Since you want to go turbo, you may as well go with turbo pistons when you build the short block, and set the ring gap to turbo specs. Then that much will be done when you do the turbo swap.

But keep in mind with the turbo pistons you will have lower compression, and feel slug slow.

I don't know why I typed head, but im confused with forged pistons and when I get everything built how I want it (including turbo) why would I feel slow
 
Sorry, I was talking about running turbo pistons in an NA engine, before the the turbo is installed
 
To play devils advocate, what are you going to be using the motor for? If it's just to tide you over until a built motor goes in, I'd be tempted to clean the bulk of the rust off by hand, and then drop the pistons down to the bottom of the stroke. Then take a hone tool and just hone the top of the bore.

Not perfect, or ideal, but (quite frankly) that's likely what many shops would do as well.

Unless it's already a built motor it's probably not worth totally pulling down to fix and reassemble with the existing parts.
DO NOT LISTIN TO THIS PERSON. No shop would do that. Block most be clean. rust is going to be in the water jackets and other parts of the block

I know v8 guys who leave their bare block out in the yard for months to "true" it before building it.

Take it to a machine shop though, don't do it yourself.
european manufacturers partake in. leave it outside well oiled to “season” making sure there is no nasty core shift.
DSM dont have to worry about core shift
 
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