The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Rods

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SlowChild3

15+ Year Contributor
545
9
Aug 19, 2005
Dayton, Ohio
Alright so I just picked up a 90 AWD talon. It has a spun bearing. After reading much about the crank and how it is a bad idea to have it turned I found a good used one for $160. Now my question is my bad rod. I was thinking of having it machined. Which in this case all would machined to match weight right? My major question is... after machining how big of risk is there of breaking them? And does anyone have any idea what an average cost to machine rods is?

I know you guys will ask me what my goals are so I'll tell you whats installed in the car.

660 injectors, FIC fuel rail, Big 16g, 8an fuel line, full blown dual hanger 2-255 walbros(yes I know it's overkill), gm maft, safc, wideband, Jerry's trans stage 1, fidanza 3.2 clutch, light flywheel, 3in exhaust. :hellyeah: Thanks
 
The stock rods are reliable to about 400 whp if. It's good practice to replace rods as a matched set. It is possible to replace just one if you are able to locate a rod that is close in weight. You can then machine it to match the others. You'll also want to magnaflux it, check for straightness, measure the ID of both ends and check the side clearance. If machined and clearanced properly it will be as reliable any new rod.

Also be aware that the entire engine and it's oiling system has been contaminated by metal particles from the bearing failure. You will want it fully disassembled, hot tanked and thoroughly cleaned. This is a good time to measure the bores and replace the pistons if yours are worn.

Anything that is oil fed will need to be cleaned or replaced. Things like your oil filter housing and oil cooler cannot be cleaned and should be replaced.
 
Even a high pressure rinse can't clean my oilcooler? I was kinda thinking aftermarket anyway. Have a few round track buddies that have some new ones laying around. This is going to be alot more money than I thought... :ohdamn:
 
I have to back Jackson Auto and what he said....

the head needs to come apart, including the oil galley plugs and be cleaned also, along with the HLAs

the thing about replacing 1 rod, is it can be hard to fimd one that is close in weight to start. there could be 4g of diffrence from one sett of rods to another set.

so the 3 good rods to be weighed, then the "new" rod brought to that weight, or if the new rod is lighter, then the other 3 need to be brought to its weight
 
My local machine shop told me about $160 to check the crank and big ends of the rod and make any necessary adjustments to either.
 
Went to a shop for quote. They told me $80 to reconditioning of rods with pistons off, $45 for head surface, and $75 for block surface. Found good (i hope) crank on eBay for $160.

Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top