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Rod Knock? Or Exhaust Leak

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IvanPSI

Probationary Member
27
0
Apr 28, 2008
__, New Jersey
http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7ZaZ3HH2QQ

I went to inspection and failed, car was not making this noise at all, but it does have an exhaust leak. I have had the hood up, but its tough to pinpoint the noise. Car does not make this noise at idle, just when revved to 3 grand and gets louder with RPM increase.

The turbo is acting funny, it is an ebay 16g which may have tooken a crap, but the car doesn't smoke. Any help will be apperciated guys, thanks.
 
When rods are knocking you have clearance issues, so usually if that is you problem you will notice lower oil pressure than normal.

Also I like to disable spark on each cylinder one at a time and see if it changes the noise or makes it go away. If it does you have a bearing issue. Don't disable spark for more than 15 seconds at a time because it can wash your cylinder bores down with fuel.
 
Sorry to say man. Thats a rod knock. Best bet for you to be 100% sure is to pull the oil pan off. With a rod knocking that loud it will be Black from the heat. If you keep driving it the motor will eventualy lock up:banghead: sorry man
 
really sounds like a rod knock to me. did you have a change in oil pressure? you can pull the oil pan and use a flashlight to look at all your bearings
 
Don't drive it, rev it, or turn it on anymore than you already did that's definitely a connecting rod knock, I had it happen to me 2 times but mine sized up witch destroyed the cranks.

Just pull the pan and see how bad it is, Good Luck man.
 
When rods are knocking you have clearance issues, so usually if that is you problem you will notice lower oil pressure than normal.

Also I like to disable spark on each cylinder one at a time and see if it changes the noise or makes it go away. If it does you have a bearing issue. Don't disable spark for more than 15 seconds at a time because it can wash your cylinder bores down with fuel.

Hey Bro I can honestly hear the extreme exhaust leak, and a slight nock from rods can eventually destroy your car but for around 1000 parts and labor or less you can have that fixed. if there is more than a 3.5 thousands of inch clearence with weisco Brian Crower or JE. Pistons it can be catastrophic if your running 100 mm crank I recommend getting Wiseco pro Rods and during my build I aquired many a parts from sponsors I couldn't use lik 86mm wiseco 2g never used in box wiseco piston kit making the engine 2.4 liters I willing to part with for 450 and I just got them 1 month ago and payed 780. Measurments on pistons are a 86 militmeterbor 3.3825 piston size and 1.093 inch compressions height with Weiscos strocker kit and brian crower vavles, valve springs, and retainers if the internal engine isn't already done up. if u currently have a 100mm stock cranks I just recommend getting cylinders machined in case wobble messed with cyclinder wall and if ## gonna do that an extra 250 dollars up and above cyclinder machining to get that extra .040 liters to get the bore over to 2.4 liter pistons I have the pistons for that exact setup pluse a brand new 1995 DSM 4g63t AWD motor I'm asking 900 which was rebuilt by mitsubishi OEM except for the large 16g and ram air intake. If you need any help call me

908-89204975 I live in Jersey and have come accross almost everything problem or set back imaginal when I started this 1300hp project and have put in around 70k of my own man sponsors around another 30k. But I'm sure new rod check the mesaurments of pistons u have by calling manufacturer and messure the clearence should never be less than 2000 of inch clearence and no more than 3.5 thousand of inch clearence. Cooling sleeves or machining it. Will fix the problem and with the over bore to 2.4 if the cylinders are warped the bore over and custom coooling sleeves he puts in would make it like new.:thumb:
 
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