2G Roadrace/AX ARB setup questions

[DSM98GSX]

I'm looking for some tested insight from the guys that are doing roadracing and autocross events (preferably AWD chassis). I'd like to figure out which ARBs to go with and what kinds of setups have been working; front and rear. I've talked to Bobby (FIBA, FWD chassis) who has suggested the oem front (19mm) and to play around with the rear, starting with the Evo 7-9. I have the bushings to go with 22, 24, or 25 for the rear.

I'm thinking of a few options:
-Keep the front OEM arb (19mm) and upgrading the rear to an Evo 7-9 arb (22mm)
-RM front arb (20.6mm) and go with a thicker rear arb (24/25mm)

Suspension mods:
FIBA front subframe
FIBA steering rack
FIBA bump steer kit
FIBA front billet upper control arm
FIBA front compression arm
FIBA front sway bar end links
Volk front tubular lower arm
FIBA rear upper control arm
FIBA rear ARB adapter brackets for Evo 7-9
Tokico struts with Eibach springs (will upgrade later on)

Future mods:
Rear subframe
Supporting rear arms

Any opinions?
I know @turbosax2, @greengoblin, and @TSiAWD666 all do roadracing/AX, so might have a good idea on a setup.

Thanks in advance!
-Nic

 

[turbosax2]

I might not be much help but I'll give my experience.

Suspension mods:
DG Koni coilovers
RM sway bars (f+r)
RRE underbrace (damaged it last year and not currently installed)
Poly bushings where appropriate
DC rear strut bar
3g rear UCA
VMC rear toe arm
SPC UCA's
CompWorks fender braces
Solid front subframe bushings

I've had the core setup since 2012 and have only changed minor things over the years. Since then I've done 40 track days and probably a dozen or so autox events. Before installing a Quaife front diff about six years ago, I found my setup to be pretty neutral on track but far too pushy for tight autox tracks. Even on the track I had to be careful about how early I could get on the gas coming out of corner to avoid pushing out. Without going into the drivetrain, I think it could have benefited from changing to a stock front sway bar or a much stiffer rear bar. At the time, the only upgraded rear bar I remember was the RRE and I heard stories about ripping out subframe mounts so I never tried to get my hands on one. With the upgraded front diff, the car is better at autox and much better at corner exit on the track. The front diff honestly made a huge difference and I had to relearn how to drive the car, it's pretty incredible how much throttle input you can give starting even before the apex on most corners. My RWD friends all hate how much I can pull away in certain corners because I'm on the gas so much earlier than they are. You can literally feel the diff working and the tires digging for grip, it's pretty neat.

I would still love to get an Evo rear diff to really complete the setup and dial in some oversteer. I think a standard diff would be great, maybe flip some of the plates to get a little more rotation but I don't think it would need a lot to be faster and have the option to control it with throttle without being difficult to manage. I remember reading on here years ago one of the OG autox guys saying to change out diffs before doing much suspension work and in hindsight I think that's a really good path if you're serious about going fast. Your diff selection and setup will dictate the other mods you do to keep things in balance.

So I would say Bobby's suggestion is pretty good, or I would probably go with the RM front and a bigger rear if you have the option. I don't think most people would recommend what I've done by upgrading both f/r with the RM bars, but it's worked for me and I can only claim ignorance at first. I've driven my car in this state for the majority of my track career so it's more likely I've just gotten used to it even if it isn't the fastest/best setup. But I think that's a huge chunk of this conversation too. I have a lot to learn about driving and racing cars. By keeping the setup relatively the same, I feel I can focus more on improving me as the driver. Yeah, modifying and tweaking the car is fun, but it's also nice to have a relatively consistent setup and focus on the driver mod. Seat time, seat time, seat time. I know everyone says this and it's easy to brush off, but it's absolutely true. Having started instructing at track days the past couple years, it's really become evident how much seat time matters. I'm sure people told me back when I started to not worry too much about mods and just get out there and I probably ignored them, but it's definitely true. OK, I'll get off that tangent now haha.

Most importantly, have fun out there on track

 

[llxkevinxll]

Dennis Grant's website has a lot of useful generic information but it was all informed by his time campaigning his 2G Talon. Probably worth a read if you haven't.

Far North Racing - Home

The home page of Far North Racing, an SCCA ProSolo race team. Contains results, a team diary, and extensive writing on technical subjects related to the team.

farnorthracing.com

 

[DSM98GSX]

Thanks for the feedback Eric! I haven't driven the car since it was in it's drag setup, and I've changed A LOT since then, so I imagine the car is going to be brand new and take me a while to figure out. I'm thinking the RM front bar with a larger EVO may work good. If all else, I can go back to a stock front and OEM EVO rear.

I do have a C7 Vette, so I'll probably do a few track days just to get some seat time. I've been a passenger princess a few times, but found a few events local to me here in Southern AZ, so I'll be going to those.

Thanks again for the insight!

 

[DSM98GSX]

Kevin, thanks for the link! Looks like i have a lot more reading to do!

 

[ileagleracing]

RMDSM front and rear bars. Both my autox cars have them, 300+ autocross events.