The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Post a Question

RM Racing 2G Rear Sway Bars Interest Thread

Please Support Morrison Fabrication

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

If they made them thicker they would probably have to make bigger brackets (I forget how many sized prothane bushings are available for DSMs) And again, I'm not really seeing the point of these if they're not adjustable and using OEM style end links?
 
PlanZero said:
If they made them thicker they would probably have to make bigger brackets (I forget how many sized prothane bushings are available for DSMs) And again, I'm not really seeing the point of these if they're not adjustable and using OEM style end links?
Click to expand...
Sway bars dont have to be adjustable to reep the benifits! The adjustment is in the size! Rsther then a multi adjustment and set the bar up to the car its more of you set the car up to the bar sjnce its not adjustable,

The thickness of the bar stiffens the roll and its basically a torsonal twist motion, so the thicker and stronger it is the less roll you get and there for keep the motion of roll to a minimum which is good! Less roll center movement keeps the car in check and can also run more static camber too since the active or motion camber will be reduced from less roll,

Adjustable endlinks are not ways the way to adjust! Some have multiple holes in the ARB and they ment to preduce more stress so increade the loading but its not ways as easy as that!

Straight bars work best and adding 2x 90° also works well, adding other bends work well but make it not work as well as straight bar and moves is various ways and can create different effects from left to right! (So i read upon researching chassis handling)

So really i would not worry so much about adjustable droplinks/endlinks as tuning them is not worth it for the average chap and wont notice a darn thing. Its nice to have them sure. Just stick to stock preloads unless your circuit racing all the time and can do the calculations to adjust to your required needs for it,
 
Strm Trpr said:
Link to replaceable bushings?
And what are the diameters of the RM DSM sway bars?
Click to expand...
These are just the first two to pop up. Not sure what size bar you have, this is for 19mm
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Eclipse-Talo...261517&hash=item4b085e6347:g:faoAAOSwCGVX2sj2
This is for 20mm, you have to check part number
https://m.ebay.com/itm/PROTHANE-13-...654751&hash=item53e6d640d3:g:ko4AAOSw3H1Z3~f7

And ec7ipse I meant running this proposed bar, which only has one hole on each end, with OEM style links. I don't see what the thickness matters if the end links are the same size as stock.
And I was referring to adjustable sway bars(and example below), which have three link holes on each end (well my ST bars only have adjustable fronts) When I run with the end links connected to the innermost hole on the bar, the steering is noticeably stiff around turns. When left in the middle hole, it feels just like stock with prothane bushings. I mean the whole point of spending this.much is so you feel a noticeable difference, no?Why can't these bars be made the same way? I can't see it costing much more.
I guess Im just confused as to the purpose of an aftermarket non adjustable sway bar. Does that make sense? Im no expert by any means I'm just going by what I see and felt through my own setups.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I'm not talking about going all out like this, though it would be tits!!
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited:
It's worth pointing out that (according to my calipers), the RM bars are both nominally 21mm.

I've had them for over ten years (street and highway) and with the Dennis Grant / Koni Sport system and a moderate uptick in spring rates, the car is on rails - two-finger driving at brisk highway speed. Can't imagine not having them and I don't see a need to fart around with multiple link points. You generally don't have to mess with wedge unless you're actually racing at which point you are probably already rolling your own from the race car aftermarket.
 
PlanZero said:
These are just the first two to pop up. Not sure what size bar you have, this is for 19mm
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Eclipse-Talo...261517&hash=item4b085e6347:g:faoAAOSwCGVX2sj2
This is for 20mm, you have to check part number
https://m.ebay.com/itm/PROTHANE-13-...654751&hash=item53e6d640d3:g:ko4AAOSw3H1Z3~f7

And ec7ipse I meant running this proposed bar, which only has one hole on each end, with OEM style links. I don't see what the thickness matters if the end links are the same size as stock.
And I was referring to adjustable sway bars(and example below), which have three link holes on each end (well my ST bars only have adjustable fronts) When I run with the end links connected to the innermost hole on the bar, the steering is noticeably stiff around turns. When left in the middle hole, it feels like stock with prothane bushings. Why can't these be made the same way? Hence the reason I'm confused as to the purpose of a non adjustable sway bar. Does that make sense? Im no expert by any means I'm just going by what I see and felt through my own setups.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I'm not talking about going all out like this, though it would be tits!!
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Click to expand...

I believe the general interest of this thread is for an AWD model rear sway bar.

Options for 2G AWD rear sway bar...

RM Racing rear bar = 20.6mm thickness (Designed to accomodate 3" aftermarket exhausts)

OEM rear bar = 18mm thickness

ST rear bar = 19mm thickness (Designed around OEM catback exhaust)

Speed Daddy/Godspeed etc. rear bar = 19mm (Designed for RS, GS, GST models only - Not AWD - meaning won't clear OEM AWD exhaust) Technically not an option really.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/rear-sway-bar-installation-help.497920/
 
Last edited:
PlanZero said:
These are just the first two to pop up. Not sure what size bar you have, this is for 19mm
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Eclipse-Talo...261517&hash=item4b085e6347:g:faoAAOSwCGVX2sj2
This is for 20mm, you have to check part number
https://m.ebay.com/itm/PROTHANE-13-...654751&hash=item53e6d640d3:g:ko4AAOSw3H1Z3~f7

And ec7ipse I meant running this proposed bar, which only has one hole on each end, with OEM style links. I don't see what the thickness matters if the end links are the same size as stock.
And I was referring to adjustable sway bars(and example below), which have three link holes on each end (well my ST bars only have adjustable fronts) When I run with the end links connected to the innermost hole on the bar, the steering is noticeably stiff around turns. When left in the middle hole, it feels just like stock with prothane bushings. I mean the whole point of spending this.much is so you feel a noticeable difference, no?Why can't these bars be made the same way? I can't see it costing much more.
I guess Im just confused as to the purpose of an aftermarket non adjustable sway bar. Does that make sense? Im no expert by any means I'm just going by what I see and felt through my own setups.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I'm not talking about going all out like this, though it would be tits!!
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Click to expand...
Material, solid or hollow, wall thickness, and overall outer diamater all play a role in stiffness, in general metal of a bigger OD has better stress loading and strength and resistance so all work with each other so not being adjustable is not an issue, the bigger the bar the more resistance it produces and the bigger the effect it has,

Just like breaking a twig, get a small one it flex's and can snap it easily but get a bigger sized one and its more of an issue to snap it,
 
I'll throw my hat in for a full set... would love to see a slightly thicker rear bar if possible. Let me know if you do go through with making another batch.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Boosted Fabrication
ECM Tuning
ExtremePSI
FIBA Motorsport
Fuel Injector Clinic
Innovation Products
Jacks Transmissions
JNZ Tuning
Kiggly Racing
Morrison Fabrications
Rix Racing
RockAuto
STM Tuned
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top