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[RESOLVED] Timingbelt Falling Apart [Merged 8-8] groove cut short bolt bolts

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Niknuk

20+ Year Contributor
59
0
Jul 2, 2002
Penn Hills, Pennsylvania
Well, after putting some white-out on the tbelt where the groove is, after about 200 miles it gets worn away meaning whatever put that groove into the belt is still touching it. It took about 12k miles to get a groove worn about 1/8th of an inch deep. The steel threads are "just" starting to show through. Obviously its time to change the tbelt. I was just wondering if anyone has heard of anything like this. It has to be something barely touching the belt to make it worn like that. Theres never any smell and the groove is no hotter (from friction) than any other spot. Should I do a full tbelt change and replace EVERYTHING or just the belt itself since everything was done 12k ago?:confused:

Oh yeah, is there anything else performance wise that I should do while i'm in there?
 
I have seen a few cases where the tensioner pully hits the water pump causing the pully not to spin. does the belt feel warm to the touch after you shut the engine off?

No not unusually warm. I have run the engine with the cover off and the accessory belts on to see if it was contacting anywhere and I don’t see anything out of the ordinary. I think it is happening when the engine has a load on it or when I am decelerating in gear.
 
check near the bottom, sometimes theres a bolt on the oil pan that sticks through a little bit and may hit the timing belt, this happened to me before but it got really bad and i had to replace the timing belt. i dont know if 1gs are different that 2gs but could be a possibility.

EDIT: crap i just looked at the pictures and didnt notice the text :p
 
I can see the timing belt is going thin.... You must have it tensioned to tight to make it ride in... It'll rub on the front cover... Thats an expensive t-belt too. Thats why i dont use those.. I end up replacing them about every 5k anyway:p
 
I can see the timing belt is going thin.... You must have it tensioned to tight to make it ride in... It'll rub on the front cover... Thats an expensive t-belt too. Thats why i dont use those.. I end up replacing them about every 5k anyway:p

Tensioned too tight? I have the gap between .15-.18 between the tensioner and tensioner arm? So you think I should make the gap more towards the .18. Right now I can just fit a .15 in drill bit in between. Also do you mean the front cover on the block or the front timing belt cover? Thanks for the help.
 
Also, the groove starting to form in the timing belt on the OP is most definitely the classic long-bolt problem on the oil pan. Check it again. Just remember that even if it isn't touching it while the car is off, at idle or under WOT the belt can lift a little. Trim the bolt(s) on that side down a bit, or find the right one(s) out of the set for that side and put them where they're supposed to go. :b
 
I agree 100% that the oil pan bolt is the issue. As many others have i also had this prob. and it ended up skipping and bending all my exuast vavles. THAT IS THE SAME SPOT MINE RUBBED. Remember these aren't 2.3 fords. They are collision engines and any Tbelt issue should be taken serious!!!! Hope you get this squared away.
WOT:dsm:DSM:talon:POWER
 
My belt looks just like the kevlar belt after 100miles of use when I had my oil pan bolts in the wrong spots.

I agree 100% that the oil pan bolt is the issue. As many others have i also had this prob. and it ended up skipping and bending all my exuast vavles. THAT IS THE SAME SPOT MINE RUBBED. Remember these aren't 2.3 fords. They are collision engines and any Tbelt issue should be taken serious!!!! Hope you get this squared away.
WOT:dsm:DSM:talon:POWER

It's not the oil pan bolts. Look at the pic below.
 
Ok I have searched and found some awnswers, but still alittle lost. I need to know where to put the short bolts (2) into the oil pan. I know they go over under the pullys, but which of the four holes? If you are under the car looking up, and start at the front, and lable the first hole number one ( Under the pully side) and the last hole number four. So I need to know 1st 2nd 3rd or 4th hole. My guess is 2 and 3 but I dont want to risk my timing belt on it... :thumb:

Thanks,

Tyler B.
 
Hi tyler i do know that i put a long bolt into the oil pan on the timing cover side. Near
the back of the engine and it wore a groove in the belt. I looked in my haynes manual
and it doesnt list anything there about bolt sizes or lenghts just for our information.
Hope this helps with your timing belt issue. vic
 
The bolt next to it? The is a bolt on either side of it. So, both of the small bolts go into the front cover. Not the ones closest to the oil filter, but the last two holes? So hole numbers 3 and 4?.....

Dont hate me Im slow LOL

Tyler B.
 
I don't really care to understand your lingo and bolt holes 1 2 3 4 5 etc.

Its the bolt directly underneath the oil pump sprocket and the one next to it, that looks like it could come into contact with the belt. Run the bolt in the hole and look to see if it contacts the belt if you have too.
 
You must have your lower timing cover off. There are 4 holes on the drivers side of the oil pan. I was just giving those holes numbers. Hole one is the closest to the oil filter. Hole four was the one cloest to the axle on the same side of the pan.
 
So trying to fix my coolant spewing issue I came across this when I took off my timing belt cover...

Any ideas?
Should I stop driving the car?
 

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I would NOT drive it any more till you find out what the belts rubbing on. Take your timing cover off and fully inspect the timing belt area! Looks like to me there could be something stuck at the bottem of the crank pully.
 
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