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[RESOLVED] Timingbelt Falling Apart [Merged 8-8] groove cut short bolt bolts

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Niknuk

20+ Year Contributor
59
0
Jul 2, 2002
Penn Hills, Pennsylvania
Well, after putting some white-out on the tbelt where the groove is, after about 200 miles it gets worn away meaning whatever put that groove into the belt is still touching it. It took about 12k miles to get a groove worn about 1/8th of an inch deep. The steel threads are "just" starting to show through. Obviously its time to change the tbelt. I was just wondering if anyone has heard of anything like this. It has to be something barely touching the belt to make it worn like that. Theres never any smell and the groove is no hotter (from friction) than any other spot. Should I do a full tbelt change and replace EVERYTHING or just the belt itself since everything was done 12k ago?:confused:

Oh yeah, is there anything else performance wise that I should do while i'm in there?
 
Balance shaft.

And yet another vote for that damn oil pan bolt. I lost a belt that way too, due to a stupid shadetree not listening when I told him about the one short bolt out of the set for the oil pan.
 
...there is a bolt that is shorter than the others for the oil pan. If another one is used, it usually rubs the belt.

And yet another vote for that damn oil pan bolt. I lost a belt that way too, due to a stupid shadetree not listening when I told him about the one short bolt out of the set for the oil pan.

I believe there are actually TWO oil pan bolts that are shorter than the rest, at least on the motors that I have seen. But agreed that this is the most likely cause.



.....(closest 2 by the crank pully).....

:thumb:
 
I could see a "little" twitch if you pushed down between the cams as there is a very small amount of slack it is not rock tight. But it would be almost un-noticible. The cam should pull up the belt which shoudl be locked to the Crank which in turn pulls down the the intake cam ... When you push down between the exhaust and intake cams. So they should be pretty much be locked in place.

If you are seeing considerable movement ... more than a degree of movement, then I would say there is slack in your timing belt and either the Hydralic tensioner or the Tensioner pulley or the tensioner arm is not working correctly or setup correctly.

That make sense?
 
I was replacing my oil pan gasket, and when putting it all together, the 2 short bolts stripped the threads out of the engine. I searched and found another person that this happened to, but they were using an air tool with a lot of torque. I was just snugging them down with a screwdriver attachment and it pulled the threads out clean. It looks like these don't bolt into the actual block, and to a cover on the side, which could be the reason. But why did they come out so easily? Will it just strip again? If it is prone to stripping like that, should I heli-coil the 2 holes, or tap them a bigger size?
 
Heh the title on this thread answers itself... They stripped because they're short. And if they go aluminum that just adds to it. Now that they're stripped you're going to have to heli-coil them if you want them to hold any pressure...
 
I have to change my oilpan gasket soon and was wondering about where I can find a set of studs and nuts for this? Alternatively, is there replacement OEM bolts available? What are the torque specifications for these bolts? Thanks for the advance info.
 
Alright I did a search and got two threads that were a bit .. old (2004) and sort of vague.

So here I go:

I stripped two of the bolt holes closest to the timing belt. The bolts that are closest to the middle. I have no idea what to look for in a tapping kit (dimensions, size etc.)

Where can I get items like these? I don't want to be running around buying, exchanging things and eating up valuable time listening to the local teenager who thinks he knows what hes talking about. I've done all kinds of work on the eclipse, but I have never had to tap/rethread a hole.

:dsm:

Rock on and thanks in advance!
 
What could be causing this it is starting to really worry me. It’s not the two oil pan bolts, but I do think it contacting in that area. Every thing is correctly lined up. And the tensioner is with in .15 to .18. All parts are genuine Mitsubishi except the power enterprises Kevlar belt. Any help would be great. pics below
 
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