[RESOLVED] Timingbelt Falling Apart [Merged 8-8] groove cut short bolt bolts

[Niknuk]

Well, after putting some white-out on the tbelt where the groove is, after about 200 miles it gets worn away meaning whatever put that groove into the belt is still touching it. It took about 12k miles to get a groove worn about 1/8th of an inch deep. The steel threads are "just" starting to show through. Obviously its time to change the tbelt. I was just wondering if anyone has heard of anything like this. It has to be something barely touching the belt to make it worn like that. Theres never any smell and the groove is no hotter (from friction) than any other spot. Should I do a full tbelt change and replace EVERYTHING or just the belt itself since everything was done 12k ago?

Oh yeah, is there anything else performance wise that I should do while i'm in there?

 

[eldiabloz13]

pretty much what he said and it would be best to do this on a lift.And isnt the downpipe on the side of the oil pan so all u need it a ratchet with a extension.

 

[lil' red dsm]

i just took the pan off of my car. downpipe must come off as well as the transfer case. the driver side member needs to come off. if you don't take this off, the driver side of the pan will catch on it. its connected with 6 bolts and is pretty easy to take off. the oil pan has 10-15 bolts. you don't need any special tools, just a 10mm wrench and a handful of sockets- 10mm, 14mm, and 17mm i believe. the oil pan will probably be stuck on so you can tap it with a rubber mallet or CAREFULLY wedge a flathead between the pan and the block and it will pry right off. be very careful taking the pan off because of the oil pump. lower the pan straight down, don't try to pull the pan sideways or you risk damaging the oil screen and pickup tube.

 

[lil' red dsm]

i had an impact wrench but you shouldn't have a problem if you have a good breaker bar. taking the pan off took me about 1.5 hours.

 

[Littlebeeper]

i left my crossmember on so if you do that a swivel will be great. you will have to jack up the engine for the pan to clear but it is a lot easier and worth the time to take the member off. Mine had rusted bolts and i didn't want to risk it. damn 1 G's

 

[DSM_AWD_TSi]

I don't have access to a lift, so I don't plan to take the crossmember off if at all possible. So I will attempt to jack up the engine and take the pan out that way. Do I have to remove the engine mount(s) when I jack up the engine? Thanks for the replies.

 

[bzzzt]

Just something else to keep in mind, keep track of where the short bolts and long bolts go, make sure you put them back in the right spot.

 

[TURBOKIDD90GST]

i had my timing belt done at a local shop 13months ago 8,000 miles. i took the upper timing cover off the other day and saw that the belt is hitting somthing and is starting to wear a groove in it. when i got the work done i replaced water pump, timing and balance belt, tensioners. drop it off today to have the shop look at it still waitn for them to call me back. any advice on what i should do.

 

[boostedinaz]

i had my timing belt done at a local shop 13months ago 8,000 miles. i took the upper timing cover off the other day and saw that the belt is hitting somthing and is starting to wear a groove in it. when i got the work done i replaced water pump, timing and balance belt, tensioners. drop it off today to have the shop look at it still waitn for them to call me back. any advice on what i should do.

The only things I have seen that do this are:

1. The bolts for the oil pan come in two lengths. The short bolts need to go on the timing belt side or they will rub the timming belt.

2. Something fell in or came loose in the timing belt cover and is beating it up.

I would pull the lower timming belt cover and look between the crank and oil pump pulleys to see if the oil pan bolts are flush or stick up.

I would also just look around with the cover off and turn the crank by hand to see if anything is rubbing or touching. I just did this on a friends car and found a small bolt that had fallen in and was slowly tearing the belt up. Took it out put on a new belt and it runs fine.

 

[hereitcomes]

a bolt is stuck out, or not secured all the way and is rubbing against the belt. My buddy dropped a screw for his timing cover into the path of the belt, and it made a huge divet in the belt almost half the width. I would want to take a look at your work again. Proabably something small that you overlooked.

 

[weith1111]

I thought I had the oil pan bolt problem too, but it's something else. I'll be getting to it this spring.

Check this out for a pic of the common rub pattern and some info:
http://buschurforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13260&highlight=notch+belt

Basically just review everything in that area. Believe it or not, I or someone helping me managed to put some pulleys on backwards/inside out so my accessory belts were at an angle. This was causing rubbing on the timing cover, melting the plastic, almost touching the timing belt on the inside. I'm just taking everything off and starting over with undamaged parts put on correctly!

Besides the oil pan bolts and something being dropped in the cover, there are a ton of bolts and such that could be walking their way into the belt's path. I've lost an alternator belt this way, bolt just wiggled it's way right into the belt...shred....break!

 

[wolf20043]

I'm glad You all mentioned the oil pan bolts. Last time I did I was told I was stupid and there was NO WAY it could happen.
Mike

 

[TURBOKIDD90GST]

i had a shop do it for me. my belt looks just like the one in the link. is the shop to blame what should i do about having them fix it

 

[wolf20043]

i had a shop do it for me. my belt looks just like the one in the link. is the shop to blame what should i do about having them fix it

It really depends on what You find when the cover is removed. Like was mentioned above, You should be able to see what is touching the belt and causing it.
Mike

 

[TURBOKIDD90GST]

well its at the shop right now they said they would try to look at it today but probably tomorrow

 

[wolf20043]

well its at the shop right now they said they would try to look at it today but ###### tomorrow

Let us know what they find. But chances are, if it is the same shop, and it IS thier fault, they will never admit it.
Mike

 

[phillabaum03]

Same thing going on here.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/phillabaum03/Picture011.jpg

 

[TURBOKIDD90GST]

got it back from the shop today thet said the tensioner went bad and because i bought the parts they are not goin to warranty it. they gave me an est. for 780 to replace the tensioner and a new belt.

 

[boostedinaz]

got it back from the shop today thet said the tensioner went bad and because i bought the parts they are not goin to warranty it. they gave me an est. for 780 to replace the tensioner and a new belt.

Like someone else said it is never the shops fault.

If the tensioner went bad you would have skipped timming before it just screwed up the belt.

Who did you get the tensioner from? Mitsu?


Get the car back from them and never take it back. YOU shoud have taken it apart yourself to find out why it was getting chewed. Now what ever might have been chewing it up has been taken out by the shop to cover there own ass. Thsi is unless it is the oil pan bolts. I would get a new tensioner, unless the one you have is brand new and from Mitsu, and a new belt and do it yoursefl. The DSM communioty is great because we have a TON of resources and people are always willing to help. Check to see if someone local can help you set it up.

 

[EclipseGST-95]

i stripped the oil return bolt holes inthe oil pan today and i dont feel like drilling and tapping new holes so i just ordered a new pan from the factory... as for the uninstall i have a 95 gst and i was wondering if i have to do everything thats mentioned in previous posts or if thats just a first generation dsm step(s)... it looks to me underneath the car that the only thing keeping the pan from dropping besides the bolts is my downpipe the transfer case (BOLTS) i believe might give me trouble... can anyone give me some more information about the steps to uninstall this on a 2nd generation?

 

[luvmygst]

i stripped the oil return bolt holes inthe oil pan today and i dont feel like drilling and tapping new holes so i just ordered a new pan from the factory... as for the uninstall i have a 95 gst and i was wondering if i have to do everything thats mentioned in previous posts or if thats just a first generation dsm step(s)... it looks to me underneath the car that the only thing keeping the pan from dropping besides the bolts is my downpipe the transfer case (BOLTS) i believe might give me trouble... can anyone give me some more information about the steps to uninstall this on a 2nd generation?

The 2g gst is a piece of cake. Jack it up, unhook the exhaust from the turbo, take all the oil pan bolts off, pry it loose(carefully). Done. You can pull the exhaust enough to get it out.(at least you can with the factory exhaust) You shold not have a transfer case on a gst. If you do change the emblems to GSX

 

[BUCK]

i stripped the oil return bolt holes inthe oil pan today and i dont feel like drilling and tapping new holes so i just ordered a new pan from the factory... ?

You don't need a new Oil Pan or a drill - Tap those thru holes American 1/4 - 20 UNC - those size Bolts fit Turbo Oil Drain Line Flange perfectly - been there & done it...

 

[DROOPY209]

You don't need a new Oil Pan or a drill - Tap those thru holes American 1/4 - 20 UNC - new size Bolts fit Turbo Oil Drain Line - been there & done it...

I'm gunna have to agree....theres no need to do all that extra work, just to be showing off a new oil pan.

 

[EclipseGST-95]

sorry i wasnt thinking when i was reading ths posts... i was too pist off about stipping the HOLES in the OIL PAN... the factory bolts were too shitty and i was in a rush to get my new evo III hooked up and the 2g install kit didnt come with new bolts... so i went for my first oil change on the new turbo and i got new bolts for the return line from the factory...i also got a new lower gasket...

i orgininally had a leak with a new gasket on there (the reason for the new bolts) so i unbolted the lower end of the return line and i decided to just reuse the gasket and keep the new one for a spare... so i bolted it up with the new bolts... i over torqued them... they would just tighten all the way up and then just make a "crack" noise and then spin.. then they would tighten up and then "crack" and spin i decided that the threads in the oil pan are stripped... so i just called up the factory and they said they would give it to me for 174 i called a couple aftermarket places and all there prices were at like 200+ dollars so i ordered the pan and it should be here tomorrow... i really hate having downtime on my car so... if i put some rtv on it tomorrow and bolt it up do i really have to wait 24 hours to let it dry before i put oil in it/drive it? also is more rtv better or do i just need a little thin coat? should it glop over the sides of the lip on the pan or should it be even width? From a side view of the lip should the layer be like a 1/4 inch 1/2 inch?

 

[BUCK]

Been there - done this...

- RTV is useless on this joint - Use Copper Coat - Use new Gasket.

- Tap Oil Pan holes slightly oversize to American 1/4-20 INC, Those threads are MUCH stronger than Metric Threads & THEY ARE THRU HOLES.

- Being they are THRU HOLES you must have a Crush Washer of some type on the Bolt or it leaks AROUND the Bolt - Like the teeny little Crush Washers on the Stock Bolts - I finally used the copper washer looking part off an electrical lug - works great - been there a couple years - No Leaks - USE NO LOCKWASHERS or it will leak, just use the Copper Washers.

- BTW a Stock Turbo Oil Return Line is Aluminum - It COULD have a crack in it in the Flex part that gets bigger when hot & leaks down the Pipe & drips at Flange - A new STOCK one is $55 - Our Vendors have dude aftermarket ones for about $50 that are 10 times better than the stock POS.

 

[LT1andDSM]

This is the third belt I'm putting on, because the car keeps losing base timing. I put about 50 miles on this belt and its starting to shred. I noticed that my idler pulley is rusty and it seems like the debry from the belt has built up around the bottom of the crank gear.