[RESOLVED] Need help with brake booster

[Stainbox12]

I recently replaced my hose going from the manifold to the brake booster. I saw a little thing inside, but i didn't pay attention on what was it. I recently did a boost leak test, and im leaking badly inside the car, near the pedal area. I think, its because im missing my check valve. Can this kind of check valves work?

eBay Motors: One Way Fuel Flow Check Valve~Diesel/Gas~3/8" Line (item 250343902594 end time Jan-15-09 05:02:42 PST)

 

[1992awdlaser]

Don't know. You need to find out what pressure it is capable of holding.

 

[Jeff99GS]

If it helps, I used one of these check valves on my custom air compressor in my Jeep. It holds 125 psi of air presure fine for me!

I turned my old A/C pump into an air compressor for emergency trail repairs on the trucks. The check valve was used to HOLD the air in the tank after it is pumped.
Works great for me, So it SHOULD work for the brake booster line. Listen to 1992awdlaser though and ask the seller what PSI its rated for before buying.

 

[illeffekt vr-4]

You can order a new hose with the stock plastic one way valve in it from JNZ. Its fairly cheap.
Don't drive the car or do anymore boost leaks tests until you get the hose or a one way check valve. Otherwise you'll damage the brake booster or even worse no brakes after you do a hard pull (ask me how I know )

When I got rid of my stock 1g manifold and went with a sheet metal intake manifold the stock hose would not reach anymore so I put in a longer aftermarket hose. Then every time I would hit the brakes after doing a pull the brakes were rock hard and the car didn't stop. I was told it was because the two way valve was gone.
I ordered the small crank vent kit from dejon and used one for the brake booster and one for the PCV valve. Yes they are expensive but I didn't have time to look around elsewhere and they're good for 1000psi

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If you need to drive the car until the hose comes in you can (at your own risk) use a PCV valve as a temporary solution but again try not to run any boost

 

[bmoha2]

first; is it able to handle oil and fuel? second; is it able to handle high psi? third; what psi does it crack open at? fourth; is it able to handle high temps?
I am using one I got from McMaster that handles oil and fuel, can handle up to 280 psi (if I remember right), cracks open at less than 0.5 psi and is good up to 300 degrees. This particular one way check valve is brass with stainless steel moving parts. The seals aren't bothered by oil or fuel. Total cost was $40 with shipping and two new end pieces to be able to fit the 3/8 brake booster vacuum line and they shipped next day.

 

[bmoha2]

There is a thread on here about it. Another member was the one that pointed me in the right direction. The only thing can add is that he suggests the one way check valve that cracks at 1 psi. I tried that one and found it let too much boost thru. Look just a little bit and find the same valve but with the 0.5 psi cracking point valve.

 

[Stainbox12]

I recently replaced the check valve for the brake booster vac line, and this is my problem now. Whenever i boost and step on the brakes, they go rock hard, if im driving slow, then they seem to work just fine, to me it seems that this check valve is closing so tight, that its leaving my booster without enough vaccum to allow proper braking. My question is, to what direction to the check valve goes to, maybe i have it on backwards, i blow through it and the side that its impossible for me to blow through is the one going to the manifold, and that makes sense to me, but ill let the experts on this, chime in. I bought a toyota brake booster valve though, without thinking it may make a difference. The tighter the seal, isnt that better? Thanks.

 

[bmoha2]

diagnose this problem off the streets. Wintertime and brakes that are difficult to use=courting disaster. Hard brake pedal means you aren't getting vacuum or you brake booster has failed. Possibly one way check valve is in the wrong way or it has failed.

 

[Stainbox12]

diagnose this problem off the streets. Wintertime and brakes that are difficult to use=courting disaster. Hard brake pedal means you aren't getting vacuum or you brake booster has failed. Possibly one way check valve is in the wrong way or it has failed.

I never said, i was testing this on the streets, and by no means, its winter here, its summertime right now. I live in Panama, latin america, and it doesn't snow here .

 

[illeffekt vr-4]

I recently replaced the check valve for the brake booster vac line, and this is my problem now. Whenever i boost and step on the brakes, they go rock hard, if im driving slow, then they seem to work just fine, to me it seems that this check valve is closing so tight, that its leaving my booster without enough vaccum to allow proper braking. My question is, to what direction to the check valve goes to, maybe i have it on backwards, i blow through it and the side that its impossible for me to blow through is the one going to the manifold, and that makes sense to me, but ill let the experts on this, chime in.

You have it on backwards. You should be able to blow towards the intake manifold but you shouldn't be able to blow towards the brake booster.

 

[bmoha2]

what happened with this? Did you get it working?

 

[Stainbox12]

Yes, i bought a stock hose with the check valve inside from a forum member. I believe its the best option.

 

[solidviper89]

So then the stock hose has a valve in it?