[RESOLVED] LC-1 instal messed things up

[rconlon67]

Hey guys I was just wondering if you could take a look at the attached log. After My LC-1 install, the car is running, REALLY bad. I am getting a check engine light for a bad knock sensor circuit and the car sputters anything over like quarter throttle. Please let me know if you can see anything in the log of where I might want to start to look.
Boost leak and Base timing are good.

Thanks for time and any input,
RYan

 

[68442]

Are you using one of the outputs as a narrowband? If not and correct me if I'm wrong but the wideband is just there as a tuning device and is just logged so you can adjust what you see. Doesnt look like the wideband is working at all if your logging under the techedge. Did you setup the lc-1 and dsmlink to log per the article on dsmlink wiki?

 

[snowborder714]

When you installed it, did you install it in place of the rear o2 or did you put a new bung on?
What color wire did you run to the ECU? What pin did you run this wire to?
Have you followed the instructions on the DSMlink wiki (as mentioned above)? innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki]
Did you make sure to install all the wiring correctly, including running the two ground wires separately, but to the same ground?

 

[rconlon67]

Are you using one of the outputs as a narrowband? If not and correct me if I'm wrong but the wideband is just there as a tuning device and is just logged so you can adjust what you see. Doesnt look like the wideband is working at all if your logging under the techedge. Did you setup the lc-1 and dsmlink to log per the article on dsmlink wiki?

Yes, the narrowband seems to be working, but the WBO2 o/p does not, thats where I am confused. Yes I used a combo of the DSMLINK Wiki, LC-1 instruction manual, and DSMlink manual.

When you installed it, did you install it in place of the rear o2 or did you put a new bung on?
What color wire did you run to the ECU? What pin did you run this wire to?
Have you followed the instructions on the DSMlink wiki (as mentioned above)? innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki]
Did you make sure to install all the wiring correctly, including running the two ground wires separately, but to the same ground?

Its a 90 so there is no rear O2 that I have ever seen. I actually got a new D/P and had a new bung welded in(before the flex section).
ok wiring Sceme(I spliced into the main wiring harness:
Red(12V)-Pin107
Blue and White wires(Heater and System Gnd respectivly)-Pin106
Yellow(Analog out 1 (NB)) - Pin4(I completly cut this wire, about 4 incheches from the connector to 'disconnect' the old NB, before soldering this connection)
Brown(Analog out 2 (WB) - Pin15
Green(Analog Gnd) - Pin17

DO you think the Geen goign to the sensors gnd as opposed to chassis gnd could be my issue?

Also, Could hooking into the sensors Gnd be screwing with the Knock sensor circuitry?

Thanks for the input so far and any other that may come!

~Ryan

 

[68442]

Yea, looks like you have everything correct. The o2 is working, if it were me I'd try a different ground and 12volt supply. If that fails and nobody else chimes in I'd post on dsmlink if you already haven't.

 

[turbosax2]

The blue and white wires should be wired to chassis ground, not sensor ground. My bro's LC-1 didn't have a green wire so I don't know about that one.

Widebands are a different story. Most do not have separate sensor and power grounds, so must be connected to chassis or battery ground to be able to support the sensor's heater current. Such high current can damage the sensor ground circuit in the ECU. Also, an offset in the wideband's voltage of a tenth of a volt or so won't produce a huge offset in A/F ratio reading, generally only a few tenths of a gasoline A/F ratio point.

 

[rconlon67]

Hey guys, Tried a diferent ground(all at the same point, chassis) and same reults. NB appears to be working, but the WB feature is not. Also I am still Getting the Knock Sensor Circuit error Check engine light. I tried to take it off, sand it and re-install, but that did not help. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Ryan

P.S. Attached is a log from tonight in case anyone is interested.

 

[turbosax2]

Is there any way you can reinstall the factory o2 sensor for the NB signal? This would help in troubleshooting the wb signal. Was anything changed besides the addition of the LC-1 since the car ran well?

 

[rconlon67]

Is there any way you can reinstall the factory o2 sensor for the NB signal? This would help in troubleshooting the wb signal. Was anything changed besides the addition of the LC-1 since the car ran well?

I could easily re-attache the narrowband I disconnected, but, if you don't mind, could you please explain how this would help with trouble shooting?
Are you saying if I disconnect the LC-1 completly and re-install the NB, see if the knock sensor code goes away?

Also, only other things I did since last running good were a boost leak check(fixed one small one) and adjusted BISS to get idle corrected from boost leak.

Thanks again!
Ryan

 

[turbosax2]

Since the car is running crappy, plugging the factory nb o2 sensor back in should fix that. If not, then you know to look somewhere else for the problem. Once you get the car running properly we can more easily narrow down the reason the wb isn't working properly. I have no idea how the install could throw the knock code but see what happens when you switch back to the factory sensor. Just gotta take a few steps back to help pinpoint the problem.

 

[crimsondragon]

Run the 12v power supply to something else like the radio or ignition. My guess is you're zapping too much of the power causing both the wideband to not run and the ECU to be dying. Anything below 9v to the ECU and it won't run correctly. Remember, the wideband also heats up the sensor while calculating the ratio for you.

The way I hooked it up, I set the switched power to ignition, blue and white to chassis ground, black to the calibation switch and LED with the ground of the switch and LED connected to the Heater ground (blue). Brown is connected to my DB gauge. Since your LC-1 also has an analog ground it should be connected also with the chassis ground points with blue and white.

 

[mattdev]

Not to insult you...
Is it possibly you tapped Pin#9 instead of Pin#4? Pin#9 happens to be the "Detonation Sensor" and is the fourth one in as well. (just going the other direction)

Basically quadruple check your pin taps, I've messed up more than once...

1G ECU Pinouts

 

[rconlon67]

Not to insult you...
Is it possibly you tapped Pin#9 instead of Pin#4? Pin#9 happens to be the "Detonation Sensor" and is the fourth one in as well. (just going the other direction)

Basically quadruple check your pin taps, I've messed up more than once...

1G ECU Pinouts

Oh Dang! If you look on DSMLInk WIKI.. the 1gECU pinout...

ecuwiringinformation [ECMTuning - wiki]

There Both White Wires!! I hope thats the answer....that would explain the Knock sensor issue....

It still wouldn't explain why the WB is not working...unless I wired that wone wrong also...

Double check later,
Thanks a bunch!
RyNo

 

[rconlon67]

Mattdev---You were completly right! had the wrong white wire.

So I completly took apart the way I had everything hooked up(old hook up explained above but, crimson dragon's comments made me want to re-do everything) and re-did my wiring scheme.

-I used the 12V switched from my radio wiring harness.
-I soldered a ring terminal to my blue and white wires(together). I removed a bolt on the meatal frame around the radio and ECU, and attached it there, along with the ground for the pushbutton for calibration.
-I soldered a ring terminal onto the green wire and moutned it to a bolt in the chassis about 2 in away from the 1st ring terminal.
-I moved the yellow wire to the correct position and re-soldered the knock sensor wire.
-finally I re-did the brown wire connection just to be sure.

The Knock sensor CEL went away! (WAHOO) and both the NB and WB readings appeared to be working correctly(Double Wahoo). I attached 2 logs, the first is an Idle log, and the second is a cruise log. At the end of the second one, it looks like both O2 readings stopped working? I am not sure what happened, if any one has any Ideas or suggestions, please let me know!

Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions so far, Much Appreciated!

~RyNo

 

[mattdev]

Always eager to help a brother out!! That has happened to me more times than I can remember, haha. Glad to see it's all better!!

(don't forget to mark as resloved )