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Innovate LC-1 Install question

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spydreclips6

15+ Year Contributor
74
0
Dec 8, 2005
French Lick, Indiana
I just want to make sure I have all the wires hooked up correctly. I have the DB gauge.

LC-1
Black- Push button calibration
Red- Cig lighter 12v switched source
Brown- White wire on DB gauge
Yellow- ECU Pin 75
White- System chassis ground
Blue- Heater chassis ground

DB gauge
White- Brown wire on LC-1
Yellow- Non-Dimming illumination
Red- Cig lighter 12v Switched source
Black- Same ground as Heater & System chassis ground

Let me know if thats correct... I've been doing ALOT of reading tonight and it seems right.
 
are u planning on using this with dsmlink or just narrowband sim? this is how i plan on hooking mine up and im using the narrowband sim but im not using the dimming feature im just grounding that wire.(yellow off db gauge)
 
Last edited:
LC-1
Black- Push button calibration
Red- Cig lighter 12v (just verify it is a switched 12v source and not a constant)
Brown- White wire on DB gauge
Yellow- ECU Pin ? (only if you plan on logging the wideband - if so, let us know and we'll give you more info on where to input and what needs done)
White- System ground (chassis ground, on same lug as blue wire from LC-1 and black from gauge)
Blue- Heater ground (chassis ground, on same lug as white wire from LC-1 and black from gauge)

DB gauge
White- Brown wire on LC-1
Yellow- Non-Dimming illumination
Red- Cig lighter 12v (again, make sure it's a switched 12v source)
Black- Same ground as Heater & System (correct, but use chassis ground)

Fixed your incorrect info and added some notes.

Let us know if you plan to log the wideband signal and we'll help you get that set up.
 
Yes, I have a palm pilot I plan on logging with. I also have a SAFC 2, but not sure if that matters?
 
I'm not sure how logging with a palm works. But here you can find a list of available ECU inputs and their requirements, if they have any. You'll also have to keep in mind if you're required to have emissions or not as that can affect the input you use.
externalsensorinput [ECMTuning - wiki]

And when you input the yellow wire (analog 1, from factory set for narrowband simulation), you'll want to reprogram it so it outputs the same info the brown wire does. This ensures your logger sees the same as the gauge. You can find info on how to do that on this page.
http://www.dsmlink.com/wiki/innovatelc1orlm1install
 
So if I just want to use the DB Gauge and not log then do I need to hook the yellow wire up to anything, or just cap it off? Also I'm in Indiana so no worries about emissions.
 
You are correct - if you don't intent to log it, just cap it off. However, I would highly recommend logging it as it will make tuning much easier.

If you don't have to worry about emissions, I would say to run the yellow wire to pin 75 (rear o2 sensor) since that sensor is useless if you don't need it for emission purposes. And you might not be running a cat anyway, so that would make it useless as well.
 
How did you know I didn't have a cat? ROFL Okay pin 75 it is!
 
just curious y wouldn't he run the yellow wire from lc1 to ecu pin out 4? i understand he isn't logging to anything but i thought the yellow wire is for narrow band sim?
 
How did you know I didn't have a cat? ROFL Okay pin 75 it is!

Just a guess, but more of a generic statement.


just curious y wouldn't he run the yellow wire from lc1 to ecu pin out 4? i understand he isn't logging to anything but i thought the yellow wire is for narrow band sim?

Well, first of all, pin 4 on a 2g is for the ISC motor.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/281763-2g-turbo-ecu-pinout-w-wire-colors.html

The yellow wire is pre-programmed for narrowband simulation, if you need/want to use it. But if you have a perfectly functioning stock narrowband sensor, there's no need to override it with the simulation from the LC-1. Most people do this when they install the LC-1 in place of the front o2 sensor (narrowband). So if he's doing this, then yes, he'd want to simulate it. But my guess is he isn't.
 
I think I would only run it to pin 4 when I use it in place of a O2 sensor?

Okay, you answered it before I posted. I welded in another bung for the wideband, just so I could keep my narrowband.
 
Please ignore the pin 4 reference as that is the pin for a 1g front o2 sensor. You must have copied that from a thread where someone who owned a 1g asked about it.

Please use the 2g ECU pinout tech article I linked you to as well as the first link in post 5 to figure out what pins to use for inputs.
 
Thanks alot man! I think I have it figured out now, but I'll know tomorrow morning.

Okay... I have it hooked up correctly I did the calibration, but then I had to unhook my battery to do something. Do I have to calibrate it again?
 
so the yellow wire needs to go to the white pin 74 on a 2g if you are replacing the front o2 with the lc-1 correct. I will be tackling this today and want to insure the information i have is correct. Also if that is correct how do i then go about telling dsmlink that my o2 is no longer there and my wideband is in its place

i meant pin 76!
 
Is the setup using a DB gauge at all?

If yes, then either the brown or yellow wire (if yellow, make sure to change it's settings in LM Programmer) will go to pin 76. Then the other will go to the gauge.

If no, then run the brown wire to pin 76 to avoid the need to reprogram the yellow wire.

And here's how to setup the narrowband sim. This doesn't require the narrowband sim from the LC-1, but instead uses the wideband input.
v3narrowbandsim [ECMTuning - wiki]
 
yes the gauge is included and will be utilized. So brown to gauge and yellow to pin 76. Is the re programmer software the stuff they give you with everything?? I literally just received this via fedex about 20 minutes ago haha
 
So just to get this right before i tackle it, Brown wire goes to the gauge while the yellow wire gets converted through the program and then attached to white wire on pin 76 of the ecu? Also when i am doing the programming of the yellow wire do i want to do a 0-1v or 0-5v?? Also is the brown wire a 0-5v or a 0-1v? Just trying to get squared away on this before i hook it all up.
 
alright so i just got everything wired up but my laptop doesnt have a serial port so i wont be able to change the output from the 0-1v to the 0-5v yet. Its set up as the original narrowband signal tell i can run to work (best buy) and get a serial to usb connector. My question now is once i change the output of the yellow wire to 0-5v. What do i change in link to allow logging of the signal??

alright so another quick question, i finally reprogrammed the outputs so that both are going from 0-5v. Now when i start the car and run it however it reads 7.4 and flashes instead of reading the afr like before. Do i need to re-calibrate this thing once i have changed the settings to mimic 0-5v outputs???
 
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