Innovate LC-1 Wideband Problem

[bryce]

Hey guys, i put in my wideband yesterday, and after having it warm up and the numbers jump around all of a sudden it went down to 7.4 and just started to blink about once every second or a little less. And now its been doing that ever since. I checked the sensor and it warmed up normal, and i did everything like i was told to. What could this be? i have my power coming from the cig lighter for gauge and cd player for the power ( i have no cd player in it) The grounds are both on the metal beside the deck area and ecu area there.

Can anyone shed some light on this. I need to get out and play around with the Ems more, its running pig pig rich.

 

[DSMboostin15]

Just to clarify, you did do a free air calibration right? Since the LED is blinking when warmed up means that there might be a problem with the sensor. The LED is supposed to stay on when the sensor is warmed up and the calibration wire is connected to ground. As for the power source, I used the power wire that runs directly into the ECU and I soldered the two ground wires to one lug and secured to the bolt that secures the MPI relay to the center console. I don't run a gauge with mine since, I log directly into DSMlink, but which wire did you run to the gauge: the brown wire or the yellow wire? And I'm not real familiar with EMS, but are you logging directly into it or reading off the gauge?



Ryan

 

[bryce]

we didnt do the free air calibration before we warmed up/ started the car. I completely forgot about it and thought this could be the problem but then calibrated it after and still the same problem. I had a buddy inside the car doing the stuff, and i was unscrewing and screwing in the o2. He jus did one on his mr2 and his worked so who knows. Maybe we shitted the sensor. What do one of those sensors cost?

And im almost 100 percent sure im logging into the ems with the yellow wire. I can go take a look if it makes a big difference

 

[DSMboostin15]

Choosing the right wire makes a big difference. The yellow wire is the simulated narrow band output (1.1V = 14 AFR, 0.1V = 15 AFR). The one you need is the brown wire. It is the wideband output (0V = 7.35 AFR, 5V = 22.39 AFR). Now it's programmable, so you have to make sure that it is programmed correctly so the voltage corresponds to the correct AFR reading. Since you're using an EMS, then you might not have to program it as it may be able to log it as it is. But I'm using DSMlink, so I had to program it to a linear output and log it as a different WB sensor.


Ryan

 

[DSMboostin15]

I forgot to add that the LC-1 can also read Lambda. Make sure that it is programmed to display AFR not Lambda.

EDIT: You can get a replacement sensor from Innovate directly. You probably can get the sensor from other places, since it is a Bosch LSU4.2 5-wire sensor. Here is a link to Innovate's site:

Innovate Motor Sports On-Line Store

 

[bryce]

It was set under lamba, it warms up and shows afr now, i just need to calibrate it and hope she works .. Thanks!!

 

[bryce]

So i calibrated it like it said, and now whenever i turn on the ign before starting the gauge reads like its warming up, and then when i go to start the car, it goes off and then comes on again and warms up to 15.0 and then at idle it will blink at 7.4 until i touch the gas and when i touch the gas it stops to blink and kind of jumps around, and sometimes sits at 22.4.. Any ideas? Am i doing something wrong

 

[snowborder714]

So i calibrated it like it said, and now whenever i turn on the ign before starting the gauge reads like its warming up, and then when i go to start the car, it goes off and then comes on again and warms up to 15.0 and then at idle it will blink at 7.4 until i touch the gas and when i touch the gas it stops to blink and kind of jumps around, and sometimes sits at 22.4.. Any ideas? Am i doing something wrong

You might need to program the LC-1 to read a different range. I believe from the factory the range is 7.? to 22.?. You can try going into the LM Programmer and changing that range. Here's a link on what us DSMlink users have to do to get it to read correctly:
innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[bryce]

i guesls ill give it a shot, but the afrs are not that mesed up, i had a different wideband in the car and at idle i was getttin between 12 - 13 at the time nothing crazy like 7.0

 

[bryce]

anyone have any ideas? it blinks now and then but not enough to get a error code i think.. Do ya think the sensor crapped out already

 

[DSMboostin15]

It could be that the sensor has failed already, it's always a possibility. But before you go out and buy another sensor, try doing another free air calibration. It could be that the controller did not retain the calibration. A good way to check if the free air calibration is right is to open the Log Works software that came on the CD. It will display the amount of oxygen in the air, roughly 20.7-21%, depending on temperature and humidity levels. Remember to do this when the sensor is out of the exhaust pipe.

 

[bryce]

yah ill try another free air calibration and let you guys know

 

[bryce]

I also have the gauge and the wideband hooked up on different power sources, and the calibration ground with switch is on a differnt ground then the others. So i will go back and put those back together, do a free air calibrate, and try the bi*** again.. Is it possible that this could be the cause..

 

[bmxrider154]

If you rule out all installation errors, contact Innovate directly and they will be more than happy to help you. My LC-1 failed on me and their customer service was awesome and got me a new unit quickly.

Good luck.

 

[snowborder714]

If you rule out all installation errors, contact Innovate directly and they will be more than happy to help you. My LC-1 failed on me and their customer service was awesome and got me a new unit quickly.

Good luck.

Only thing is if it's the sensor itself, they won't replace it. They will if it's the LC-1 or gauge, but not the actual sensor.

 

[turboglenn]

I would double sheck the install and make sure that a wire is not rubbed through where it passes through a firewall or the body. Then as long as you've got th eiwres hooked up correctly and insulate the one's not being used i wouls suspect a bad sensor. When mine go bad ( had a few of em go on me now) they usually start doing the same thing, they will peg to either full lean or full rich and then every now and then they'll fluctuate over to abotu 15:1 or so and then go back to full rich or full lean. Usually shortly after that the sensor stops moving from it's pegged posistion and confirms to me that it's fried!

 

[bmxrider154]

Only thing is if it's the sensor itself, they won't replace it. They will if it's the LC-1 or gauge, but not the actual sensor.

Correct. There are many factors which can lead to sensor failure. Either way, send the unit to them and they will determine the problem.

 

[44pirate]

I had trouble getting mine to calibrate, I found that I had to have the engine running for it to calibrate. My guess here is that it needs full power from the Altenator, amperage I'm guessing, to work right.

 

[snowborder714]

I had trouble getting mine to calibrate, I found that I had to have the engine running for it to calibrate. My guess here is that it needs full power from the Altenator, amperage I'm guessing, to work right.

I do not have to have the car running to free air calibrate mine.

 

[DSMboostin15]

Like Brian said, you don't need to have the car running to do a free-air calibration. It's probably better that you don't because exhaust will be exiting the wbo2 bung near the sensor, thus construing the calibration. If you're not getting enough voltage to the sensor, try using a different source for the power. I tapped into the power wire going to the ECU because it has almost the same power requirements as the LC-1. It's also nice because you can ground near the other wires to help cut down interference and makes for a cleaner install.

 

[Cablefed]

My LC-1 did the same thing the other day. I was unable to get into the unit and program anything. I requested an RMA from Innovate to have the unit looked at on their end. I assume the unit just went belly up. My display also flashes 7.4 on the digital readout and I have no LED activity what so ever.

 

[bryce]

I went through my wiring and it all checked out ok, i checked installed the led and did the free air calibration again and setup the laptop and it worked!! Well until my alternator died a couple days later haha. But yah, its good to go now, The car should be at 20+ lbs by this weekend. Im hoping for 110+mph in the quarter

 

[snowborder714]

Glad to hear you got it working!

 

[boost92]

Im having similar problems with mine. Running the LC1 w/ DB Blue gauge. At first when i turned ign on it only flashed 7.4. Finally I did a first time start up cal (heater cal, free air cal). The steps i took are as follows. disconnect sensor from harness and power on for 10 seconds then turn power off. Reconnect sensor and power on for two minutes to calibrate heat of sensor..after heat cal is done turn off power for 30 seconds and power back on. Next i do free air cal after sensor is warmed up (led quit blinking) i push switch for a second and LED goes off then comes back on a few seconds later and gauge displays 9.1. I was aware that gauge should read in the vicinity of 20.1 to be calibrated correctly. It continues to stay at 9.1 but when i drive it, it idles at around 7.7-7.8 and during driving never reaches above 8.2.. Need help have tried everything short of replacment parts.. Thanks in advance!

 

[snakeyes711]

An easy way to test that the sensor is working correctly, is unscrew it, and use something flammable. I used carb cleaner on a rag, and folded the wet rag around the sensor, and watched my meter, fall all the way rich. The lcd even said too rich . When you remove the rag it'll go right back up to full lean. If the sensor is bad, when you put the rag on it it'll start to go rich, and then go back to lean with the rag still around the sensor.

When I installed the sensor out in free air the first time I pressed the calibrate button when its powering on. When it was done I screwed it in, and fired it up.

Also the way I programmed it to read was 7.3:1 = .01v, 22.3:1= 4.998v.
Programmed that ways its spot on.