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2G Resolved: Injectors and Alternator

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Mham2k

15+ Year Contributor
307
60
Feb 8, 2008
Dallas, Texas
A few days back I installed some 850cc lowz FIC injectors.

I adjusted ecmlink to -47% but I didn't up my deadtime to 330. (I will up the deadtime next time I can drive my car, it's currently at 0)

I then noticed that my alternator stopped charging.

Is there a correlation or did my alternator just happened to die after I changed my injectors. (Alternator is 2 months old)

I don't want to remove the alternator just to find out that I didn't configure something correctly in ecmlink.
 
Seems like it would hard to blow an alternator fuse.

You might think so, but people manage to do it all the time.

Easiest seems to be dropping a tool by the alternator that shorts the B+ output to ground. There should be a cover on the post but 20 years later, who knows.

Get out the multimeter and check the voltage at the battery and alternator, not running and then at idle. That will tell you if you have to start unbolting the fuse or the alternator.
 
You might think so, but people manage to do it all the time.

Easiest seems to be dropping a tool by the alternator that shorts the B+ output to ground. There should be a cover on the post but 20 years later, who knows.

Get out the multimeter and check the voltage at the battery and alternator, not running and then at idle. That will tell you if you have to start unbolting the fuse or the alternator.

Its the alternator, when you turn it on it charges 12v then go on down to 8v.... This will be my third alternator from autozone in 6 months... Its getting ridiculous...

On another note... Anyone put a overdrive pulley on there alternator? If so where can i get one?
 
Its the alternator, when you turn it on it charges 12v then go on down to 8v.

That's not charging at all. The battery's nominal voltage is 12.6v so anything lower than that is discharging.

As I tried to suggest above, where you measure is as important a data point as what you measure. If you were measuring at the battery without checking at the alternator doesn't tell you the whole story.
 
If it's in the stock location, check for a power steering leak onto it, and also consider adding a heatshield. The leak and the heat kill these things very fast. If it's relocated, be sure to grind some paint away from the jay-racing bracket and add a ground strap. If it's truly going down to 8v then I'm not sure what to tell you.
 
That's not charging at all. The battery's nominal voltage is 12.6v so anything lower than that is discharging.

As I tried to suggest above, where you measure is as important a data point as what you measure. If you were measuring at the battery without checking at the alternator doesn't tell you the whole story.

I checked at the alternator, before the fuse, after the fuse, and at the battery. Battery was 1 volt lower than at the alternator.

I think the alternator was slowly dying when i bought it, it started out charging 13.5 at the alternator at idle, before i installed the injectors it was around 12.5v, after i installed the injectors it just laid down and died.

I will get a new one and install it (3rd alternator) tonight. The good thing is I get them free because there is a lifetime warranty on them from autozone, the bad thing is they keep dying...

The same thing happened to me with starters, it took me 4 starters from autozone before i got one that didn't die after a month.
 
If it's in the stock location, check for a power steering leak onto it, and also consider adding a heatshield. The leak and the heat kill these things very fast. If it's relocated, be sure to grind some paint away from the jay-racing bracket and add a ground strap. If it's truly going down to 8v then I'm not sure what to tell you.

I will check for a power steering leak! Thanks for mentioning that.

1.) I had a valve cover leak I just fixed that could have been dropping oil on it.
2.) Before I installed my last alternator i put on a turbo blanket and wrapped my header and down pipe.
3.) I also fixed an o2 housing leak that could have been spraying hot air on it.

Where can I get an alternator heat shield?
 
I know the 1Gs came stock with one but many people remove them for whatever reason. You could fabricate one yourself or try and buy a used one off ebay, here or Facebook groups.
 
Run a 90 amp galant alternator. I have had one for about 4 years now from Autozone. Direct replacement. PN#13391

I have had my share of battery / alternator issues. Went 90 amp & never looked back.
 
I run the Galant unit also, plug and play on my car (1g).
 
Going to try that , My alternator has been giving me a headache , i replaced it 3 times , now with the new one I bought , It puts out 11 then drops to 10 then goes up to 12 then it runs 13 , its all over the place depending on how it wants to act LOL , I thought it would be timing related , as i took my car to get the water pp replaced and they jacked up the timing , think its a tooth off idle is off
 
I've been tuning so I looked at battery voltage and mine holds rock solid at 13.8 loaded up as hard as I can load her.
 
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