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[RESOLVED] FIAV Bypass - Coolant Line Caps

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snowborder714

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16,188
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Oct 15, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
I have installed the JM Fab FIAV bypass plate and have removed all emissions. I used the Motormite Bypass Cap assortment (from Advance Auto Parts) to cap off the nipples that the two coolant lines connected to that ran to the throttle body. I just started the car for the first time tonight after doing this. I also installed new radiator hoses, radiator, and 1.3 bar radiator cap (along with other things). After taking it for a little test drive, the one cap that was blocking off the water pipe nipple exploded and sent coolant everywhere. I was wondering if someone had a better suggestion as to what to use, or maybe another idea as to what I could do. I don't want to loop the two nipples. I could take the one on the housing to get welded shut, but I do not want to take off the water pipe (as that would require dropping the turbo). I also don't know anyone that has a welder.

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
You have two options really.

1. Loop a fresh new line from the crossover pipe to the thermostat housing.
2. JB weld + Bolt

I've done both and both are fine. Just do yourself a huge favor and use a new coolant line. Old ones tend to be degraded and burst within the first couple weeks of driving.
 
Well, I had to take a lot of stuff out of the engine bay to clean everything up. I was also thinking of dropping the turbo, exhaust manifold, and O2 housing and doing some porting soon. This would make it very easy to take out the water pipe. Would there be any drawback to welding the hole on the water pipe?
 

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No - not other than you won't be able to use the hole again.

Mine is welded shut - no issues/problems what so ever.

You also don't have to drop the turbo to get the water pipe out. just unbolt it and pull it out the pass side - it might be a little more difficult to get to that bolt behind the turbo, but definitely doable.
 
No - not other than you won't be able to use the hole again.

Mine is welded shut - no issues/problems what so ever.

You also don't have to drop the turbo to get the water pipe out. just unbolt it and pull it out the pass side - it might be a little more difficult to get to that bolt behind the turbo, but definitely doable.

Thanks for the first hand experience! Always the best type :thumb:

I had also read that you could take it out without dropping the turbo, but I was probably going to do it anyway to port some stuff. But that's good to know it's possible to do.

Anyone else have any comments on this?
 
You absolutely can take the water pipe out without removing the turbo. I just swapped my turbo WP to a nonturbo WP without a hitch. The only problem is twisting/finagling (sp?) the pipe out from under the turbo/manifold. Be sure to clean off the water pipe and get a new oring or RTV it when reinstalling. Be wary as to putting too much pressure on the pipe, because it will definitely bend.
 
Actually I didn't. Using a PTE housing, the stock oil feed line / banjo bolt from the block was hitting the to4e housing, hence my removal of it. I wanted to simplify water lines and this was one of the means to do so. :)
 
My brother has been trying to remove the water pipe today and can't seem to get the bolt off that's behind the turbo and under the manifold. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what tools to use to do this (since you can't get a regular open-ended wrench in there or a socket)??? I'd like to get the water pipe properly welded but do not want to drop the turbo to get it off. Yes, if it comes down to it, the turbo will be dropped, but I've read of a bunch of people who have removed it without dropping the turbo.

Any suggestions??
 
I use a 3/8 wrench, 6" extension, 3/8 adjustable elbow, 14mm (or whatever it is) shallow socket. :thumb:

By adjustable elbow do you mean a universal joint, like this?

I tried with a shallow 12mm socket, 1/4" universal joint (because it's smaller than the 3/8"), 1/4" to 3/8" adapter, 8" wobbler extension,and 3/8" wrench. I just can't get the socket seated all the way on the bolt because the universal joint sticks out too far.

blcknspo0ln: Do you have a coolant line going to your turbo that runs between the turbo and the water pipe? I think if that hard line wasn't there I might be able to get the bolt off.
 
I do use the caps now and again but you must fill the tube with silicon RTV and then put the cap on. It won't blow then. Now obviously you have to let the RTV dry before you drive it which could take up to a day depending on temp.
 
By adjustable elbow do you mean a universal joint, like this?

I tried with a shallow 12mm socket, 1/4" universal joint (because it's smaller than the 3/8"), 1/4" to 3/8" adapter, 8" wobbler extension,and 3/8" wrench. I just can't get the socket seated all the way on the bolt because the universal joint sticks out too far.

blcknspo0ln: Do you have a coolant line going to your turbo that runs between the turbo and the water pipe? I think if that hard line wasn't there I might be able to get the bolt off.

That's what I meant. Whatever they're called LOL

And yes, I do have that water line removed. That is the factory turbo water feed line that is bolted to the block.
 
That's what I meant. Whatever they're called LOL

And yes, I do have that water line removed. That is the factory turbo water feed line that is bolted to the block.

Would you happen to know if it is possible to remove the water feed line with the turbo still on the car? Sorry for the newb questions, we've just never messed with the turbo setup before.
 
Doubtful, I've tried and it's pretty much impossible or at the very least VERY difficult to do. Draining the oil/coolant and removing the turbo IMO is a much easier process.

Ok, thanks for the help. I'll try removing the water pipe again another day and we'll see what happens then.
 
Update:

We ended up having to drop the turbo to get the water pipe out. We just couldn't find a way to get to the bolt near the turbo. And after dropping everything we saw that even if we did manage to get that bolt out, it would have been near impossible to disconnect the water line from the turbo to the water pipe anyway.

Then we went to put everything back in and I managed to crossthread a turbo bolt, so we fixed that. And then we noticed that the water line from the turbo to the water pipe had rusted through badly and cracked. So now we're waiting on a bunch of OEM parts to put everything back together.

Oh well, thanks for the help guys.
 
May be a little late and a tad bit ghetto, but on that one that keeps busting on you. I put a piece of radiator hose about 2 inches long in there. clamped it on and then clamped a 12mm bolt into it. NO problems since. I use to explode those litle plug things too :p
 
LOL 'tis the season for surprises, eh?

This car knows no seasons. It's just full of surprises :rolleyes:

May be a little late and a tad bit ghetto, but on that one that keeps busting on you. I put a piece of radiator hose about 2 inches long in there. clamped it on and then clamped a 12mm bolt into it. NO problems since. I use to explode those litle plug things too :p

Thanks for the suggestion, but yes, I already had a bolt welded in. Maybe this suggestion will help someone else out who doesn't want to take out the water pipe.
 
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