The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

[RESOLVED] Alternator charging problem

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

91-gsx

15+ Year Contributor
932
11
Mar 31, 2005
San Jose, California
I was having an issue with the coolant overflow bottle light, battery light and e-brake light all being on in my gauge cluster. These were the signs of the alternator going out, so i replaced it. Still the lights are on in the cluster. We measured the battery voltage while idling and while revved, and the alternator is not charging it. I also know it is alternator related because the car should continue to run once you start it with the battery and then unhook the battery, but it does not. If you have any ideas what could cause this please share.
Thanks for the help
 
All that you both have mentioned are in good working order. I know how to work on cars, so that is were I first looked. This seems weird because we checked all of the wiring and the fuses, and both relays that the alternator uses. I am starting to think that the new rebuilt alternator might be bad, but it is hard to swallow that a new alternator is bad as well.
Thanks for the help
 
Well I went to an auto store and bought a new reman alternator. I had the new one tested and it passed all the tests. I came back home, put it on the car and started it. The coolant overflow bottle light, battery light and e-brake light all still stay on even after the car is running. And we also tested the voltage at the battery and it was still not charging the battery. Any info would be appreciated, thanks
 
That's the problem with these stupid remanufactured alternators. I had the same issue and went through THREE PAIRS of battery's and alternators until I got a good combo. There really isn't that much in the charging system, so there's a small chance of missing something. Just buy all fresh (or test your old ones) relays/fuses, measure the voltage from the alternator, check your grounds, and measure the voltage at the battery post. Another oddball one is to check your ECU, I've seen that be the culprit too.
 
Thanks a lot for the help and information man. Its funny you mention the ECU because it has had fried capacitors before that I fixed. So I have checked it when this first happened and everything was normal, including the capacitors. I also had my dad look over it and he said it was fine, and I take his word for it because he is an electric engineer. The fuses and relays all check out fine. There are two ways to energize the coil according to the diagram in the Haynes manual. One comes from the ignition light on the gauge cluster, and the other comes from the alternator relay that is placed next to the engine fuses. They both are not doing their jobs. What could be causing that? Thanks again for the help
 
In the last year I have gone through 3 alternators, they were from a local shop who claims he has "great rebuilds." I got tired dealing with him so I just bought one from Autozone, they come with a lifetime warranty.
 
Like I said the alternator checks out. It is working fine.

Well sense I felt that the alternator charging circuit had to be grounding somewhere in the wiring between the red marks. My dad and I replaced those 2 wires and all the lights went off on the dash. And I am also happy to say that the alternator is working, and was working just fine. Actually better then I thought, it was putting out 14.3volts at idle and it did not drop while revving the engine at all. I want to thank you all again for the help.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Well I found out that I melted a few wires in the wire loom under the radiator because of the heat from the wastegate dump tube. The dump tube will be rerouted but is off for testing. We replaced the parts of the wires that were messed up and melted. I was sure this was the problem I bypassed, but it was not and the problem continues. Then we took out the wires and system we used to bypass the problem, and hooked it up the way it was originally without the bypass wires. The problem still continues. I'm not sure if anybody here can tell what this could mean? The car charges the battery fine when I first start the car and keep it parked there, even while its fully warmed up it will read 14.3volts at the battery and the car will idle fine and not miss, basically perfect. But when you hit the gas it starts to miss, and idle bad. The 3 lights in the cluster come back on and stay on even when you let go of the gas and just idle. Please any help or input is still needed.
 
This thread is continued from my other thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/299204-resolved-alternator-charging-problem.html

The thread says resolved, but I already mentioned that it was not a resolved issue yet. You do not have to even read up on the old thread to answer any of these questions, but if you have questions of your own, they might be answered in the old thread. The car not starts and idles fine and charges the battery fine while idling. The minute you hit the gas or let the car fully warm up while idling, the charging of the battery stops. Can anybody please think of what can be affected electronically when I hit the gas or when the car goes into open loop after it has warmed up? Thanks for the help
 
This thread is continued from my other thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/299204-resolved-alternator-charging-problem.html

The thread says resolved, but I already mentioned that it was not a resolved issue yet. You do not have to even read up on the old thread to answer any of these questions, but if you have questions of your own, they might be answered in the old thread. The car not starts and idles fine and charges the battery fine while idling. The minute you hit the gas or let the car fully warm up while idling, the charging of the battery stops. Can anybody please think of what can be affected electronically when I hit the gas or when the car goes into open loop after it has warmed up? Thanks for the help

bad regulator inside the alternator will work til it gets warm
 
+1 on the regulator, and it's built into the alt on our cars. You should have just gotten a new alt a long time ago if it failed a voltage test with a voltmeter.
 
+1 on the regulator, and it's built into the alt on our cars. You should have just gotten a new alt a long time ago if it failed a voltage test with a voltmeter.

I did replace the alternator. But that was before I found out that the waste gate dump tube melted 7 wires in the wire loom under the radiator, and revealed the wire inside, and some of the wire was inevitably touching other wire. We found this and fixed it after replacing the alternator, so it might be that the wires touching each other in the loom messed up the new alternator too. I will take it out to be checked.
Thanks for the help
 
did this alternator work right at all? if not i;d get a NEW one not a used one and try it before going into the wiring.
 
did this alternator work right at all? if not i;d get a NEW one not a used one and try it before going into the wiring.

The alternator charges until I hit the gas, or until the engine comes up to operating temperature without me touching the gas.
Thanks again
 
with a new one or the one thats on there?

The one I have on there is a new one. But I put it on before I fixed the wire loom under the radiator. So what I meant by previous posts is that maybe the wires being exposed under the radiator might have even messed up my new alternator. Although the alternator is new, the car was started and test driven only to find out that wires under the radiator were exposed and the insulation had melted on 7 of the wires in the loom. So, I am making the assumption that the wires still being exposed after the fact that I changed to a new alternator might have actually messed it up.
 
new doesnt necessarily mean good. double check your wiring but im betting that "new" alternator is bad

the place i worked for for many years had different brands in alternators, mainly depending on warranty, the lifetime ones we never had a problem with, the cheaper ones on the other hand... well you get my point.
 
Well I got a new alternator with the warranty and the car charges right up now and when I let it warm up or when I revved it, the lights did not come back on. Hell ya!!! So I guess the wires in the loom under the radiator being exposed fried the last alternator even though it was new. Many thanks to all of you, could not have done it without your help
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top