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[RESOLVED] 93 laser 1.8

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Redwan

10+ Year Contributor
77
0
Oct 7, 2008
Sioux falls, South Dakota
i got a 93 laser and it's only getting spark on cap 3 and 4...i replaced the ecu,spark plugs, wires, and the distributor..at first it was no spark at all, and after i replaced the ecu and wires and plugs...it's only getting spark from # 3 & 4 on the distributor cap..anyone know anything about this? some help please..
 
How's the rotor..? Is the cap new, or is there a hairline crack, or carbon traces in the cap around the points inside? Yet, interesting that you got spark for the middle two numbers (being the firing order is 1-3-4-2) and not for the first and last number..

You might have a flaky, coil, power transistor and related items..
 
i recently got this car , im not really sure how the cap suppose to look like, seems clean and the rotor seems like nothing wrong with it...its only getting spark from the cap numbers 3 and 4..could it be a bad cap?
 
yeah when you take off the caps you just gotta compare the two. Like the other guy said look for crack and for carbon traces. the carbon traces will be like green or whatever and thats how you know you may need a new rotor or cap. I say just replace itall
 
i replaced the rotor and the cap, still no spark on all the wires..now its only getting spark from the wires on # 2 and 4...honestly i don't know what else to do, i've checked for fuses inside the car and under the hood, their all good...anybody else had this kinda promblem before? could someone tell me what to do from here please, what steps i should take , any other advice are welcome..thanks
 
Maybe the 1 and 3 plugs are gapped to far, to close, or gas or oil fouled. If its oil your screwed if its gas your screwed. If the gapp is off just gap em to OEM specified gap. Take the plugs out and look
 
Question: how are you doing these tests anywhos? Are you laying the plugs on the block so you can actually see them fire?

Under the rotor plate, has the crankangle sensor disc along with the power transistor and coil inside. You may have some issues under that cover.

Okey, here's some more tests you can use:

Switch the two plug wires sets around on the cap and see if 1 and 3 fire. Lay the plugs on the block when you do this test. That way you can see which one is firing when you crank it over.

OR, have three wires off on the cap and cover the three holes with electrical tape, then have just one wire with plug attached to the cap and laying on the block. If you crank it over with wire in No.1 and it fires, we're okey, do it with No.3, it's okey and so forth. If you got all four firing, you know everything is good there.

Get a set of new plug wires....they do get grumpy and will open up without you knowing about it (I know that you did mention you did get some wires, but see what you can do on this one, if possible).

Oh, and pull the MPI fuse ..so the injectors won't be shooting fuel in the engine on these tests.

good luck-DSM
 
Just a repeat of what everyone else has said with some variations. Try to find a noid light, kinda like a test light for spark test, it plugs in between a plug wire and a plug. Are you using a new distributer, reman, or junk yard? I bought an old 1.8 not running with no spark at all and was told it needed a new distributer and found that it was the ecu instead and had a problem similar to yours with a junk yard dist. So put the old dist. back on with the new(er) ecu and see what happens. Perhaps it is not a spark issue maybe a compression or fuel issue. Keep us posted
 
Question: how are you doing these tests anywhos? Are you laying the plugs on the block so you can actually see them fire?

Under the rotor plate, has the crankangle sensor disc along with the power transistor and coil inside. You may have some issues under that cover.

Okey, here's some more tests you can use:

Switch the two plug wires sets around on the cap and see if 1 and 3 fire. Lay the plugs on the block when you do this test. That way you can see which one is firing when you crank it over.

OR, have three wires off on the cap and cover the three holes with electrical tape, then have just one wire with plug attached to the cap and laying on the block. If you crank it over with wire in No.1 and it fires, we're okey, do it with No.3, it's okey and so forth. If you got all four firing, you know everything is good there.

Get a set of new plug wires....they do get grumpy and will open up without you knowing about it (I know that you did mention you did get some wires, but see what you can do on this one, if possible).

Oh, and pull the MPI fuse ..so the injectors won't be shooting fuel in the engine on these tests.

good luck-DSM


i apperciate all the help guys, really i do..and the answer to your question is yes, i've layed it on the block and i have my brother help me.. i use a spark plug to test it and lay it on the block while my bro cranks it..i've tried the three wires off also..and yes i do have new spark plugs and wires, i've even tried these tests with the old wires too, still the same results..aslo tried the old ecu as well..i've tried the old distributor with the newer ecu also...still the same..i've read in a couple forums on this site that a member here had a similar problem and he changed his ecm and his problem was solved..Does a 1.8 laser have a ecm and if it does, anyone know where its located? is ecm same thing as a ecu? not sure, an answer would be greatly appericated..thanks a million..



turns out that it was still the ecu, the one i replaced wasn't the same year i had, so i went and got another one that was from a 94 eagle talon with the same motor.
 
They're the same- some call it ECM (electronic control module), and some call it ECU (electronic control unit) Behind the radio is the ECM and is mounted vertically.

..and you said that you changed that out as well...

good luck-DSM
 
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