replacing my head gasket

[jcarmichael]

last night I bought a felpro gasket set and my arp head studs, by next weekend I am going to start on doing my head. With a lot of help from vfaq and searching of course. before I get to taking the engine apart, was wondering if anyone could tell me what is necessary in replacing on the timing belt side tensioners and what not. supposedly the motor was rebuilt 5 yrs ago but other things the guy who sold it to me told me have been somewhat questionable. I know on vfaq they have a list of things to get from Mitsubishi looking for an idea on what I have to get and about the cost. I plan to actually build a motor in the next yr.

thanks for the time
Josh

 

[92AWDHX40]

Hg, all gaskets, and tensioner, and pulleys thats about it youll be the decider of what else you want to change but those are the basics for a hg, for prices look at the vendors plenty to choose from for your project. Basically everything on that side, i changed my oil pump gaskets, since your there check the oil pump gears, change the front case seals since your there since they may leak after you do y our hg job no sense in doing it twice. Water pump.


Tech Guide: 1G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners I used google. found this

 

[BogusSVO]

Since you have questions about your rebuilt by someone else engine, and you are pulling the head

Read over these so you can better understand your head and what has (if anything ) been done to it.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/413772-how-clean-head-gasket-surface.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...how-measure-4g63-cylinder-head-thickness.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...heck-piston-deck-clearance.html#post152107571


Hope this will help your head gasket replacement go smoothly!

 

[jcarmichael]

appreciate the info very much can't even begin to express my appreciation. started reading over most of the threads at work so can't get to them all but in the up coming week and next weekend I am sure I will read them more then once. another question on vfaq for timing belt check list it list these parts.

MD182295 Balance Shaft Belt
MD326059 Timing Belt
MD129355 Timing Belt Idler Pulley*
MD156604 Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley
MD115976 Balance Belt Tensioner
MD164533 Timing Belt Tensioner
MD972052 Water Pump
MB568898 A/C Belt (4PK 940 - i.e., roughly 940mm long, I believe, can use 37.0" belt, maybe 36.5)
MD178430 Power Steering Belt (660)
MD186126 Alternator/Water Pump Belt (4PK 990, Old # MD137594, can use 38.5" belt)
MD121986
MD156770
MD006665 1G lower timing belt cover gaskets
(the ones on the cover often dry out and break off)
MD376608 Crank Pulley
A good idea if your car has high mileage

should I get all of these thanks again

Josh

 

[Ferrarieater]

appreciate the info very much can't even begin to express my appreciation. started reading over most of the threads at work so can't get to them all but in the up coming week and next weekend I am sure I will read them more then once. another question on vfaq for timing belt check list it list these parts.

MD182295 Balance Shaft Belt
MD326059 Timing Belt
MD129355 Timing Belt Idler Pulley*
MD156604 Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley
MD115976 Balance Belt Tensioner
MD164533 Timing Belt Tensioner
MD972052 Water Pump
MB568898 A/C Belt (4PK 940 - i.e., roughly 940mm long, I believe, can use 37.0" belt, maybe 36.5)
MD178430 Power Steering Belt (660)
MD186126 Alternator/Water Pump Belt (4PK 990, Old # MD137594, can use 38.5" belt)
MD121986
MD156770
MD006665 1G lower timing belt cover gaskets
(the ones on the cover often dry out and break off)
MD376608 Crank Pulley
A good idea if your car has high mileage

should I get all of these thanks again

Josh

Forget about your balance shaft belt and tensioner, as it is a waste of time and money. If you don't have a balance shaft elimination, now might be the time to do it. Many vendors sell the kit with the pieces. Might want to look into the oil pump seals or just get a new oil pump all together.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Yes replace everything i would and have doing a rebuild right now, getting new parts that havent been replaced.

 

[jcarmichael]

I was looking into the elimination kit and i dont mind the vibration effects but not sure I will be able to it the write up on vfaq to do it didnt seem hard but really complicated and possibly just wored hard to understand idk. but about how much is the kit you think

just looked it up found this kit for 60 for what it does this sounds cheap is this a good kit to do the elimination?

http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=365&cat=138&bestseller=Y

so I just went to mitsubishipartsonline.com and was looking up the parts to do the timing part of the build and by the third thing. I was already up to 300 dollars with at least 8 things to go. Can anyone recommend a different route to go without buying parts that are going to cause immediate issues. I don't wanna go the cheap route but I also can't afford to go the best route right now.

thanks again for the time
Josh

 

[IceMan526]

If I was doing a head gasket and nothing has been changed in a while I would change the tensioner, probably the water pump, and the belts. And then just the gaskets that you will be taking off when doing the head job.

 

[jcarmichael]

got this all done over the weekend head gasket on used the felpro arp head studs in still doing the retorqueing them down part mileage wise, ive heard to do it at 500 miles and 4 times in 100 miles which is right? but i put new tensioners and water pump on only thing i did not get to was my bse and front case have the parts not the time or space. :/

 

[BogusSVO]

You have the "perma-torque" head gasket., means no re-torquing required.

Did you prestrech the ARP head studs? That is why most have to "retoque" the head gasket.

When installing the ARP head studs, you 3 step torque the studs
30/60/90 (or what ARP recomends)
loosen 1/2 turn
30/60/90
loosen 1/2 turn
30/60/90

I have always done 3 cycles like this, but info that was passed along says ARP recomends 5 times.

Doing this mates the nut threads to the stud threads, and removes any "flex" in the threads, and seats the stud threads into the block threads.

If you do it this way, you will not have to "retorque" the head gasket.

 

[jcarmichael]

yikes i did not do it that way i had read so many different ones ive drove my car by the time i get home from work tonight around 90 miles... buti torqued them 30 60 90 one time then I had read to do it every 25 miles until 100 which i had not done that either but then today i read to do it at 500 miles... confusing