Removing axles

[TimF]

Ok, I did this before, but for some reason this time its being a real PITA. I typically unbolt my steering knuckle from to shock, and it gives me enough room to squeeze the axle in/out. I was able to get the driver side axle out doing this on my old 1g. But for some reason the bolts on the passenger side wont budge. I got the nuts off, but the bolts are seized in, I tried a impact, and heat, and tons of PB blaster, but the wont budge. I was told I can remove the tie rod and unbolt the control arm, and should be able to pop the axle out, and I got the tierod off today but surprisingly dont have a wrench big enough to get to the control arm bolt (17mm if I am correct?). Would that be enough leverage to get the axle out then? I attached a picture of the bolt, it almost looks like its fused together with the strut?

Beside getting the bolt of, what would I need to get the arm out of the knuckle? I have a tierod seporater would that work?

 

[DSM IN MN]

This seems too obvious to me but; have you tried hitting the end of the bolt with a hammer? So as to knock it through the hole.

 

[88blazer1297]

You should be able to unbolt the lower ball joint with a wrench and strike the knucke with a hammer to loosen the ball joint. That way you don't tear the boot like with a pickle fork. That will give you enough clearance to remove the axle.

 

[nelliott500]

You should be able to unbolt the lower ball joint with a wrench and strike the knucke with a hammer to loosen the ball joint. That way you don't tear the boot like with a pickle fork. That will give you enough clearance to remove the axle.

This is definitely the way to do it if you can make it happen. I didn't have luck doing this and had to resort to a pickle fork the first time I removed my axles (156k mile car -- likely the ball joints had never been removed) but I've had them back out again since then and this method works great.

Here's a video from Jafro showing him removing his axles. Skip to 5m40s.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGDw73GoIeE&t=5m40s]Trans & Clutch 1 - Remove Transmission - YouTube[/ame]

 

[steve]

Before you go unbolting the knuckle are you sure that the axle isn't rust welded to the hub?
You'll need it all solid if you have to pound on the axle.

Get a couple of fresh bolts for the strut bolts so you can beat on the pointed end of those bolts without actually hitting the pointed end and free them up.

If the ball joint and tie rod are free you should have enough play to remove the axle but give the rusting of the knuckle bolts the rest might be rusted together.

 

[TimF]

I tried hitting the bolt with hammer, didnt budge it. my car has 170k on it , The axle is actually free moving, I can push it in and out and it slides freely, I just cant get enough clearance to pop it out, ill try getting the control arm off tomorrow hopefully it moved

 

[nelliott500]

You don't need to remove the control arm. Just separate the ball joint and that will give you enough clearance to get the axle out.

 

[chet1185]

Im about to pull my tranny so I'm following this. New to dsm cars. I only ever owned gm fbody so this is a new experience for me.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I have a couple ripped CV shaft boots on mine and I have only owed F bodys also so I am watching this one too. I want to rebuild my factory axles so I have boot kits. Keep the info coming. Thanks all.

 

[TimF]

for you new guys typically I have not had a problem just unbolting the strut that always have me enough room to get the axles in/out on my 1g's. This is my third time doing this and the hardest so far

all the other bolts came off easy, just those strut bolts are a pita

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Have you tried using an impact on those stubborn bolts? I need to change my boots but its cold here in Kansas right now so since I am not driving it, I am waiting for better weather and a good weekend. I didn't know if you were using just hand tools or my friends, the air tools.

 

[TimF]

t its cold here in Kansas right now so since I am not driving it, I am waiting for better weather and a good .

good weather. I live in chicago, am outside working on my car in a gravel lot its 5 degrees without wind chill right now.

Yea I ran a impact on those bolts, they wouldn't budge, the driver side were seized to I hit them with a impact until the bolt spun freely, then tapped them out with a hammer, these wont budge.

Got the control arm off, but im sure I ripped the boot, can I just get replacements?

 

[nelliott500]

What boot? The boot on the axle or one of the bushings on the control arm? If it's the control arm, I'm not sure how you damaged anything.

 

[TimF]

the boot on the control arm, it ripped. I have to use a fork to get it off and I guess it was either ripped before or the fork did it. axle are fine, there actually in really good shape

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

yeah you got me on the temp. I work on my DSM right where you see it in my avitar, in the driveway that is part concrete part gravel too so I definately understand. I have never had a shop and always had to work on my stuff outside (and I'm gettin old), but not to old to have FUN!

 

[serviceguy]

The ball joint boot can be purchased separately. If you need to change the actual ball joint you will have to buy an aftermarket one (i.e. Moog) and press the old one out of the control arm, Mitsubishi sells the whole control arm including the ball joint as one part (and it's expensive if you still can find it).

 

[TimF]

no I just need to boot, I tore it when I used to fork to separate it from the steering knuckle, but I found jnz sells them so Ill just order new ones. now my t-case is being a pita nothing is ever easy. thanks for the help to

 

[nelliott500]

Okay. It's the boot on the ball joint. I was confused because the control arm itself doesn't have any kind of boot. I didn't know JNZ sold the boot alone. Awfully nice of them.

If you ever need to replace the ball joint or the control arm bushings, I recommend just buying a brand new control arm from 1A Auto : Aftermarket Auto Parts, Car Body Parts, Replacement & New Automobile and Truck Parts | Buy Discount Car & Auto Parts Online. They come with new bushings and a new balljoint already installed. I bought one for my car and it worked well. It was $62 with free shipping but I believe they sell them in pairs as well for around $100.

 

[TimF]

Ok change of topic, but instead of starting a new thread, ill just ask here. My transfer case wont budge of my trans. Its an auto trans. I did remove all 5 bolts, I am using a 2ft pry bar between the trans and the tcase and it wont budge at all. how else would I get this thing off?

I tried a pry bar, hitting it with a hammer ect. its not moving

 

[-red97rum-]

Ok change of topic, but instead of starting a new thread, ill just ask here. My transfer case wont budge of my trans. Its an auto trans. I did remove all 5 bolts, I am using a 2ft pry bar between the trans and the tcase and it wont budge at all. how else would I get this thing off?

I tried a pry bar, hitting it with a hammer ect. its not moving

There's 6 bolts for the auto transmission tcase!!! Quit prying on it before you break something! Take your time and look closely, you'll see all six of them.

Edit:
Here's a picture, I marked the bolt holes in red:

 

[TimF]

thank you, the other cars I did were a 5 speed and had 5 bolts