AEM Reinstall of AEM EMS cranks perfect no start

[StrokedGSTMaguire]

I had my series 1 stolen couple years ago and just finally found a series 1 cheap to replace it. I uploaded the cal file from the previous tune when it was running recently. It cranked but popped a little and didn't start. I read into it some and decided to try to move the crank exit speed up to 2000 that made it turn over cleaner and no popping sound. I put new plugs, drained the fuel, changed oil, and few other little things before i tried to get it going to begin with. From what I read I should try to see if i have a bad sensor, its been awhile since playing with the EMS I mostly had a shop do all the tuning and give me a little walk through on it. Ive only put 1000 miles on the motor since being built so it was still using a modest tune for now while the motor was in the break in period. Hoping it doesnt have any other issues from sitting in the garage past couple years.

 

[DSMPT]

Are you sure the EMS is for 2G? Not for EVO? Series 1, it's different between 2G and EVO. Not like Series 2.
If you are using stock cam/crank sensor and ignition system, double check if all sensor's parameters are selected properly and make sure that "Stat Sync'd" is OFF and it turns ON while cranking the engine.

 

[StrokedGSTMaguire]

all aftermarket sensors, ait, 5 bar map, aem wideband uego for the o2, basically if it should be swapped out we did it. Its a 1310 which is the same as i had before and came out of the same car i have as well. I read something on a thread about the coolant temp sensor screwing things up. im charging battery up currently it ran down leaving it on while i was trying to figure it out. I tried attaching the cal file im using that the tuning shop put together originally but theres no way for me to attach it that i can figure out for anyone to look at and see if one of the parameters are off somehow.

 

[StrokedGSTMaguire]

i have an msd dis-2 plus with the dual adapter its mounted on passenger side firewall. I have extra sensors from the kid i got the box off that he took off his wreck incase i needed the extra sensors and he sent the cam/crank sensor as well that was on his. I was hoping as much as i paid for all the sensors that they were all still good. Im not noticing any errors other than the afr is between 4-8 when cranking but the reading is from the wideband 36 inches down the exhaust. Its going back to the shop in Mass i used if i cant figure it out but id rather not spend the money or time traveling from northern maine to Massuchusetts

 

[DSMPT]

all aftermarket sensors, ait, 5 bar map, aem wideband uego for the o2, basically if it should be swapped out we did it. Its a 1310 which is the same as i had before and came out of the same car i have as well. I read something on a thread about the coolant temp sensor screwing things up. im charging battery up currently it ran down leaving it on while i was trying to figure it out. I tried attaching the cal file im using that the tuning shop put together originally but theres no way for me to attach it that i can figure out for anyone to look at and see if one of the parameters are off somehow.

Doesn't matter what sensors you have since you saved the old cal file, all parameters you need are in there. So I don't doubt the cal file if you didn't change any parameters.
Did you check the Stat Sync'd turns ON when you crank? If not it will never start the engine.

i have an msd dis-2 plus with the dual adapter its mounted on passenger side firewall. I have extra sensors from the kid i got the box off that he took off his wreck incase i needed the extra sensors and he sent the cam/crank sensor as well that was on his. I was hoping as much as i paid for all the sensors that they were all still good. Im not noticing any errors other than the afr is between 4-8 when cranking but the reading is from the wideband 36 inches down the exhaust. Its going back to the shop in Mass i used if i cant figure it out but id rather not spend the money or time traveling from northern maine to Massuchusetts

I suspect that MSD unit, could be it's the cause of no start.
I don't remember very well since this is very old. IIRC Series 1 requires a physical jumper to change ignition outputs and crank sensor input if you change ignition system or crank sensor. Do you have any kind of ignitor/power transistor hocked with the MSD? Series 1 itself can't drive a CDI, so it requires to install an ignitor on board or externally. If the shop who installed the EMS before did the on-board modification then the old EMS that is stolen had it and the one you recently got doesn't have it.

 

[StrokedGSTMaguire]

the tuning shop had issues with the msd as well when tuning. i suspect that i need to just switch to coil on plug if i want it to run correctly. the stat sync i didnt notice it turning to on when cranking. ill double check it.

 

[StrokedGSTMaguire]

also yes there is a power transistor its the red small box on passenger side firewall in profile pic. i believe that is what your referring to atleast.

 

[DSMPT]

the tuning shop had issues with the msd as well when tuning. i suspect that i need to just switch to coil on plug if i want it to run correctly. the stat sync i didnt notice it turning to on when cranking. ill double check it.

First you should check if spark plugs have sparks or not, because maybe the issue is something else. And if you would remove the MSD unit, better replace with a stock coil pack with stock ignitor/PTU if you still have them. Also you should open the EMS and see if it is modified on board or not by the previous owner.

also yes there is a power transistor its the red small box on passenger side firewall in profile pic. i believe that is what your referring to atleast.

To check Stat Sync'd, just look for a Stat Sync'd parameter window in AEMPro (this should show OFF now), and crank the engine and see if it turns ON in the window while you are cranking. Or you can take a log for checking it later.

 

[StrokedGSTMaguire]

I did log me trying to start it. The plugs spark but very weak spark in my opinion. I took couple pics and also there was no mods inside the box I looked that over as well. I tried uploading video but wouldn't let me cuz the file is too large to upload.

 

[DSMPT]

Can you upload a good resolution pic of EMS board where the jumpers are? I still think this is a hardware/mechanical setup issue.

 

[StrokedGSTMaguire]

Took few pics hopefully they're good enough resolution. My phone is in rough shape since I roof for a living.

 

[DSMPT]

Took few pics hopefully they're good enough resolution. My phone is in rough shape since I roof for a living.

Yeah I can see it well. Can you change the position of two jumper pins (in the green circle on where says JPC1 and JPC2 in the pic I attach) as the red marks and try to crank to see if it would make some difference?

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[StrokedGSTMaguire]

Didnt seem to make a difference that I could notice. Cranked over still descent but no change.

 

[StrokedGSTMaguire]

Fingered her out it seems for now atleast. Thanks for help. I had few bad grounds from sitting and possibly a bad Ignition control module or atleast I changed it out and cleaned up the grounds then it started right up. Runs pretty smooth. Crossing my fingers everything stays working.

 

[DSMPT]

Fingered her out it seems for now atleast. Thanks for help. I had few bad grounds from sitting and possibly a bad Ignition control module or atleast I changed it out and cleaned up the grounds then it started right up. Runs pretty smooth. Crossing my fingers everything stays working.

Glad to know that. I had been digging my old computer to look for the AEM documents about the jumper modifications that is mentioned above to change ignition output and cam/crank/baro sensor input. Your car already started up but anyways you may want to know about this in case if you would change your setup in the future.

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