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Rebuilt, wont start, think may be injectors

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Jake90GSX

15+ Year Contributor
49
1
Sep 10, 2005
Shelton, Washington
1990 Mitsubishi eclipse, freshly rebuilt and now wont start, think may be injectors

The gold box that sits behind the radio is the ECU right? I have swapped that out

I have swapped out the camshaft angle sensor.

I have swapped out the the injector resistor pack

I swapped out the smaller gold box that sits next to the thing I believe to be the ECU.

I have checked compression and have 185-190 on all 4.

I have spark on all 4.

I have loosened the bolt on the top of the fuel filter and have fuel.

I have checked the pins on the fuel injector connectors. they both read 12v, if I put the positive to one pin and the negative to the negative battery connection.

I then put my voltmeter on DC electric and put both the neg and pos to both pins of the injector connection and had somebody crank the car, it spikes up for a short second as its being cranked so i believe the injectors may be trying to work but im not sure.....

my first diagnostic was to just pull the plug wires and check for spark which I have, then I pulled a plug and its dry, at this point is when I pulled the bolt out of the top of the fuel filter and cranked it over... So i know I got fuel to the rail because it went everywhere.

Im really stuck guys, whats my next step..... I cant help but think this is injector related because i have spark and i have fuel at the rail.. but its not getting to the plugs... but I could be wrong this is my first COMPLETE rebuild

My car has been down for 5 months! FIVE!!! im going literally notice and i am very anxious to try it out. I love you guys, please help me
 
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!

didnt even occur to me... im headed outside to drop the tank now. be back in an hour or so.
 
Hahaha, that's just what I was about to tell you to do :thumb:

There's a few other things you can check if this doesn't work, but my guess is this is your problem.

Also, to answer a couple of your questions:
Yes, the metal box behind the radio is the ECU. When you swap this out, you HAVE to make absolutely sure that you swap it out with the correct ECU for your car (1990 cars have a different ECU than 91+).
The small gold box that sits next to the ECU is your MPI relay. This is two relays in one -- one for your Fuel Pump and the other for your MPI (MultiPort fuel Injection) circuit.

185-190 compression is somewhat high for your car. Might want to check that out. Once you get the car running, get it up to operating temp and try the compression test again.

EDIT: One more thing, sorry....
When you drop the tank, you will want to clean it out (high pressure water works okay for this) and ****let it dry completely**** before putting it back on the car.
I'd say let it sit in the garage overnight, then turn it sideways and let it sit another 24 hours or so.
Then, when you reinstall it, add some Seafoam to the tank, plus a few gallons of the highest octane gas you can find (I also used Octane booster. You don't have to do this if you don't want to).
 
femmeDSM said:
185-190 compression is somewhat high for your car. Might want to check that out. Once you get the car running, get it up to operating temp and try the compression test again.

.

He has a freshly rebiult engine of course his compression is going to be high, and he proly had the head shaved which would raise his compression over normal. Having high compression isn't a bad thing:thumb: ITs a VERY good thing:D
 
1.8laser90 said:
He has a freshly rebiult engine of course his compression is going to be high

Yeah, I wasn't thinking about that part when I posted that. LOL. Thanks for reminding me :thumb:
 
its running... but

its not running right.... it revs up to about 3k before it kills itself...

the boost gauge shows negative number... so im assuming i have a boost leak someplace oh YAY!

well i dont have a compressor at the house... ill have to borrow one. RAWR! already have a boost leak tester made from before i tore the engine apart for the rebuild

how quick is the exhaust supposed to heat up? I would say i had it run about a couple minutes and it was very hot to the touch. almost enough to leave a burn mark.
 
also, i didnt find anything nasty in the tank... no gunk, no rust... just shiny silver walls and apparently clean gas... so I guess I was lucky and just had some old gas, so i poured it into an old can and bolted it back up then poured in the new and cranked it up pretty easily
 
I would check all you vacuum lines and check for boost leaks like you stated. Also, you didnt say for sure, but like femme said, did you replace your 90 ecu with a another 90ecu?
 
sure did, just bought a 1990 Talon TSI for my girl friend. it needs a tranny so i have been "borrowing" this and that from it
 
Sounds like you've got a series of boost leaks...As far as the "boost gauge reading negative", it's supposed to do that at idle -- that's your vacuum. If you don't have vacuum, then you can't have boost ;) What is the gauge reading, exactly (inHg)?

Stalling like yours can be caused by a number of things. Make sure the engine is in time (commonly, if the exhaust cam is off by 1 or 2 teeth, this causes crazy stalling issues and a generally unhappy car).
Also, what are the condition of the spark plugs and plug wires?
Might want to give the throttle body a good once-over (and thoroughly clean both sides of the throttle plate, replace the gaskets, etc).

There are other things we can check (like the ISC, BISS, etc, but take a look at those things, and we can go from there.
 
I had a vacuum hose that was not hooked up on the intake manifold, it is now... so theres one major leak down.

I noticed I have a leak at the throttle body, it changes flow as i adjust the throttle position... so i think i need some kind of throttle shaft seal if im not mistaken... hoping someplace local has it because i really need to get this car going.
 
well... i keep fixing them one at a time, first the loose hose on the intake, then i noticed i didnt tighten the lower hose on the intercooler. then I got new o-rings and dielectric greese and fixed the leak in the throttle body, then I fixed the leak in the injectors. I have now learned that the BOV is shot.... its leaking during the entire boost leak test... so i thought no problem and grabbed the one off my girlfriends talon, its bad too and im running out of cash :barf:
 
well... i want to get it to atleast idle so i plugged the blow off valve hose off in order to see if it would run and it is still stalling... any help guys?
 
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