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Rebuilt 4G63 from Checkers or Autozone

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LVcountryboy

Probationary Member
10
0
Sep 22, 2009
Las Vegas, Nevada
I am thinking of purchasing a new/rebuilt 4G63 Long Block from either Checkers or Autozone, or somewhere of that sort (they offer a 12 month/12K mile warranty). I was wondering if anyone knows how much HP these engines can withstand on a daily basis without worry of failure. I was quoted $3300 for complete long block, without sending them my Core. So my plan would be to replace my engine with this long block, and then slowly start making mods to it for more power here and there. Then i'd keep my old long block in my garage and rebuild it at my own pace to learn all that stuff, all while my car is still drivable since it will have a new engine in it already. Then once i'm done with my rebuild, i should be able to just swap them back out, and pray that my rebuild works. So any idea on how much power a rebuild/new long block from Checkers or Autozone can handle?
 
$3300 could buy you a very nice long block from one of the vendors on this site.
I know you said you were looking to build one yourself, but why do it twice?


Here's a short block for $2k. Add a few hundred more for front case and stuff.
MAPerformance 2.0l Shortblock (Stage 1) - Modern Automotive Performance

You can get your head refreshed/ported for a couple hundred. Head studs and a head gasket and you're good to go.

I can't see why anyone would want to go with an Autozone longblock with the prices our vendors offer.

Give a few of them a call. Tell them what you want and what your goals are.
 
I agree, Autozone would be the last place I would buy a motor. Plus $3300 for all remanufactured non-OEM components? Give me a break. I'm using all aftermarket internals (besides the crank) and once I get my head done the whole motor will have cost me somewhat less than the price you were quoted.

The best thing I ever did was buy a cheap, reliable, daily driver to replace my DSM while I rebuild it. If you have $3300 in your pocket you could get a really decent second car to get you to work for that much if you're in need of some wheels to get you to work.

As far as the 'power' it could handle? I would imagine it would be the same or similar to any stock motor. Not sure on Autozones build quality though....plus add in tuning factors and whatnot so it's really hard to say.
 
I agree. You can buy eagle rods and wiseco pistons for under $800. You can have a used 6bolt n/t long block in your hands for $300 with a good crank. You can get kelford or FP cams with top notch springs and retainers for $600. $160 for MLS and ARP studs. You can have a machine shop spec and install all the parts for another $1000. . . Less than $3000 for a blueprinted +800whp block, vs. $3300 for an Autozoo topline internals bearly capable of what used oem can do.

Take the difference and get oversized valves and a good port job on the head. or SMIM and FP race manifold. Or WHOLE bolton hx40 that can put you in the 650whp range with a stock head (minus cams of course). . .
 
The head has nothing to do with horsepower. Shep makes 1000+whp on the stock head. Of course he has a good valvetrain to withstand the big cams and high revs.

Autozone, or whoever assembles that engine, will use parts from the lowest bidder. I bet its not oem. 3300 is just outrageous.

Just find a good used shortblock and take a weekend to install it.
 
I was quoted $3300 for complete long block, without sending them my Core.
You do realize the parts to completely rebuild the block on your own would run just over $500, right?

If there's no crank scoring and if the bores are straight, there's no reason to cut the crank or bore the block. When I recently tore down my FWD TSi, I was shocked to find that after 130k the ring end gap of the old rings was no more than .003" larger than the new ones I'm installing. That says something for good oil and regular service intervals.

The head has nothing to do with horsepower. Shep makes 1000+whp on the stock head. Of course he has a good valvetrain to withstand the big cams and high revs.
Contrarily, I believe the head has more to do with making power than any other part of the engine.

....and you might want to check again; Shep's head is far from "stock":

::Shepracing.com - Race Car::

Fox Lake Power Products Cylinder head
- Race port intake and exhaust
- 1mm Ferrea intake valves
- 1mm Ferrea exhaust valves
- Ferrea dual valve spring
- O-ringed deck
 
Well. I think we're talking about durability at 600whp vs. 400whp for the block and head. The stock head CAN tolerate 600whp just fine. And the stock 6bolt block has been proven time and again with a good tune to take 600whp frequently and consistantly. That at least what I am talking about anyway.

I've heard that stock heads can only handle ~400hp
Yes you would be hard pressed to get more than 400whp out of the head with stock cams. But a pair 272s and that number goes to +600. No valve or spring upgrade. No differences in the head anywhere else. Jsut a common cam upgrade that anyone can do. But we're talking durability right? Not airflow potential. What does the head do after 400whp, explode or something :) . . . . The head can contain over 1000 whp.
 
Few years ago, had a friend that went the Checker route on a Chev 350 long block, paid through the nose for the block and year after the 12k warranty, something gave and cracked the block. He tore it down and saw how cheap the parts were that was installed.

Went out to a yard, found a good motor for 400 bucks and had it rebuilt by a respectable motor shop.

-DSM
 
I have a close friend who recently got a job at Checker. One day he told me that for $2,000+ I could get the 4G63 from them. We then looked at each other and knowingly laughed. It's most definitely a rip off. I can't see how they'd ever imagine they'd sell engines. I guess it's just for people who blow up their cars and need a new engine and don't know how to shop for their own.
 
What?! Wow, what a rip off. You can get a decently built motor that can handle power for under 3k as previously stated. This is making me question their transmissions too. Lol.

I am rebuilding a motor myself. I've been shopping around for parts. Here's a few sites you can check out. DSMparts.com and CI Motorsports. Check out RRE as well.
 
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You do realize the parts to completely rebuild the block on your own would run just over $500, right?

If there's no crank scoring and if the bores are straight, there's no reason to cut the crank or bore the block. When I recently tore down my FWD TSi, I was shocked to find that after 130k the ring end gap of the old rings was no more than .003" larger than the new ones I'm installing. That says something for good oil and regular service intervals.


Contrarily, I believe the head has more to do with making power than any other part of the engine.

....and you might want to check again; Shep's head is far from "stock":

::Shepracing.com - Race Car::

Fox Lake Power Products Cylinder head
- Race port intake and exhaust
- 1mm Ferrea intake valves
- 1mm Ferrea exhaust valves
- Ferrea dual valve spring
- O-ringed deck

So valve springs add horsepower now, do they? Its still the same 4g63 head we ALL use. Its still the same casting. Thus, its still the same stock head. I didnt say stock valvetrain. If you bolt on sheps head on your car, you wont gain any horsepower.........
 
I pulled my motor, got all the machine work done, used stock internals. All the parts and machine work came to about $1700. That includes some extras. I Re-assembled the motor as well.
If you have 3Gs to spend get one motor done right the first time around. Then invest in gauges and monitors so you know whats going on with the motor so you don't cook it/detonate etc.
 
For clarification, the remanufactured engines that Checker and Autozone sell are not actually remanufactured by those companies. They just sell them. Not only that, but there are several different remanufacturing companies that they go through for each engine, especially something like an SBC 350 or something of that nature.
 
So valve springs add horsepower now, do they? Its still the same 4g63 head we ALL use.
Not directly, but if you're running a nice set of 288's on the stock springs you'll definitely see gains once you upgrade the springs. At least I hope so....if not I just wasted a lot of money on my AWD's head.

Its still the same casting. Thus, its still the same stock head. I didnt say stock valvetrain.
It was difficult to understand the way it was worded. When it comes down to it, all of us are using the same casting because nobody offers a complete upgraded head for our cars like Edelbrock or other brands do for V8's.

If the head truly meant nothing, these companies wouldn't sell a single aftermarket head because every hardcore engine builder would be modding the stock heads to work.

If you bolt on sheps head on your car, you wont gain any horsepower.........
I wouldn't go that far....his head is designed to flow a heap of air, so if you have a turbo large enough to make use of the head you're going to see gains.
 
When i tore mine down it was in really good shape even after, over 100000 miles i had the bottom end rebuilt and the head for a good price. Ill spend my money here at the vendors thats what keeps us here.
 
I have a close friend who recently got a job at Checker. One day he told me that for $2,000+ I could get the 4G63 from them. We then looked at each other and knowingly laughed. It's most definitely a rip off. I can't see how they'd ever imagine they'd sell engines. I guess it's just for people who blow up their cars and need a new engine and don't know how to shop for their own.

I know of someone that decided a tranny from autozone was a good deal wasted 2k+ on it. I tried telling him about Shep, TRE, Jacks but he wouldn't' have it. He didn't care apparently the autozone tranny is better. LOL
 
I am thinking of purchasing a new/rebuilt 4G63 Long Block from either Checkers or Autozone, or somewhere of that sort (they offer a 12 month/12K mile warranty). I was wondering if anyone knows how much HP these engines can withstand on a daily basis without worry of failure. I was quoted $3300 for complete long block, without sending them my Core. So my plan would be to replace my engine with this long block, and then slowly start making mods to it for more power here and there. Then i'd keep my old long block in my garage and rebuild it at my own pace to learn all that stuff, all while my car is still drivable since it will have a new engine in it already. Then once i'm done with my rebuild, i should be able to just swap them back out, and pray that my rebuild works. So any idea on how much power a rebuild/new long block from Checkers or Autozone can handle?


We have a few shortblocks in stock ready to ship! PM me for details!! :cool:
 
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