Rebuild or no?

[Birdoprey]

I picked up a 91 Eclipse GSX AWD a few weeks ago. Had oil leaks everywhere, holes and cracks in just about every vac hose, a terrible 3" hack job for an exhaust, manifold leaks(yes plural), and a MBC that was hooked up backwards. The car smoked so badly that i thought the turbo seals were blown. I almost all oil leaks fixed and the car does not smoke now except under WOT and the smoke is black. Idle was goofy as well, even after fixing the vac leaks.
I noticed the inner boots were split on both front cv shafts and i was planning to replace this weekend.
Ok, now to the problem...
The car started shacking real badly while i was driving and i pulled over to check it out. The bracket that bolts to the block and holds the driver side cv shaft up came loose allowing the shaft to flop around(still attatched at each end). After checking more, i found that the bolts broke off in the block. My best guess is that the bolts were loose as i've found several loose or missing bolts on the car(starter has one bolt holding it on, bellhousing missing 3 bolts).
I've pulled the intake(found that there was no manifold gasket either! Just silicon. I'm sure that was my other leak that i could'nt find) to see if i can get the remaining bolts out but i don't think i can get a drill and bit in there, so i'm prolly gonna pull the motor.
While the motor is out i'm gonna check the cam timming as well as the balancer shafts(motor vibrates pretty bad between 2500 and 3500rpm).
Since i have the motor out should i replace the pistons/rings and rods? My plans for the near future are to hit atleast 300whp with a later goal of 350-400whp. My compression is 130, 128, 132, 135. The head was recently replace by the previous owner(the one who sealed the intake with silicon, hooked the MBC backwards, prolly miss timmed the cams and balance shafts and could'nt seem to seal the valve cover even with a tube of silicon!).
Here is what i have or is being shipped to me:
Ported Big 16G w/ 34mm flapper
Tubular 02 housing w/ 2 1/2" flange
SBR ported 2G exhaust manifold
N/T Straight TB with 2 1/2" UICP w/ 1G BOV
MAFT w/ GM 3" MAF and K&N
3" inlet to turbo
255 Walbro intank pump
AEM AFPR
VRS 3" Turbo back w/ 3" Cat
Innovate LM-1 wide band

I plan to add:
FMIC
660 inj

I don't wanna pull the motor again later, so if the stk internals won't support my goals then i wanna upgrade.
What should i upgrade to if at all? (pistions? rods? crank??? anything else???)If i go into the motor at all i will add a good head gasket, arp head, main studs.

 

[timloomis]

stock internals will hold the power you want.id take out the motor since youve found gobs of problems already,and theres no tellin what else that guy screwed up.better safe than sorry.fix whats broken accordingly.

 

[Birdoprey]

Do you think my compression is on the low side? Should i at least re-ring? I can have the car back together much sooner if i don't pull it apart. I think i'm gonna for sure pull the head as i don't know how well he sealed it. Since i'm gonna do that i'll put a good head gasket and arp hardware.

If the stk pistons/rods will reliably hold then i can save alot of time and money there. Thanks for your input!

 

[timloomis]

yea you can do a re-ring.just make sure the pistons are in good shape and they dont flop around in the cylinder,or youll need to bore it out.you might as well re-ring it,start fresh and have full compression.youll have the head off anyways.just take off the oil pan and pop out the pistons.

 

[marcmsj]

Do you think my compression is on the low side? Should i at least re-ring? I can have the car back together much sooner if i don't pull it apart. I think i'm gonna for sure pull the head as i don't know how well he sealed it. Since i'm gonna do that i'll put a good head gasket and arp hardware.

If the stk pistons/rods will reliably hold then i can save alot of time and money there. Thanks for your input!

do a wet compression test first since you don't know if it's low due to the rings or valve related (or maybe a mixture of both) if your rings are fine and your head is the cause of your low compression, then you don't have to mess with the bottom end just yet.

 

[Birdoprey]

Well, its kinda late for me to do a wet comp test. I've already pulled the intake, exh manifold, starter. The motor is still in the car though.
I did spray some liquid wrench into the ports with the valves shut and NONE leaked down past the top of the valve after 10 min. I left a pool on top of the valve. I would assume the valves are sealing??? I did this on both the intake valves and the exhaust valves.
I did notice a little oil build up around the bottom of the exhaust valve guides. Valves were wet down about halfway down the valve stem but none where the valve starts to flare out. No oil running down, just definetly wet. Are they ok or are the guides or seals leaking?