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2G Rear Camber Question

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SFRacingGST

20+ Year Contributor
235
0
May 4, 2004
Warren, Rhode Island
After spending the last 2 hours searching for my answer, I finally have to ask for some advice. I am thinking about going with the Tokico Illuminas and spring kit. I have been reading about some people needing rear camber kits. I was reading about the washer and long bolts that RRE sells, however I heard it’s a pain to adjust them since you cannot adjust them on the alignment rack. What is my best option? I was also talking to a tech at RRE and he mentioned that SPC was the best, however after doing some searching I cannot find SPC rear camber kit anywhere. Please let me know some oppinions
 
I used the hardware store eof washers and longer bolts. works great and i got it within spec. first try. and saved some dollars.
 
Can someone explain to me how I would install the washers?? Is there a write up somewhere?
 
Can someone explain to me how I would install the washers?? Is there a write up somewhere?

I have the RRE rear camber kit with Eibach Pros and Tokico Illuminas. Compared to installing shocks and springs, the camber kit install was a breeze. It comes with 8 spacers, 4 for each side and 8 long bolts.

I would worry about getting the toe back in spec (more than camber) when it comes to lowering springs. Make sure you get an alignment.

As for the install, it is just like the pics below:

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1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T Homepage
 
So do I guess on how many washers to use at first and then see what the specs are after the alignment? Are the Tokico springs similar to the Eibach's you have?
 
So do I guess on how many washers to use at first and then see what the specs are after the alignment? Are the Tokico springs similar to the Eibach's you have?

Tokico springs have a greater drop that Eibach Pros.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/139147-homemade-rear-camber-kit-merged.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/251093-rear-camber-off-after-camber-kit-install.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/247156-2g-rear-camber-install-kit-sre.html
 
So there is absolutely no difference between buying something like the Ingalls or SPC rear camber kit and just going to home depot for some longer bolts and washers? For some reason I really don't like the idea of shimming it with washers
 
So there is absolutely no difference between buying something like the Ingalls or SPC rear camber kit and just going to home depot for some longer bolts and washers? For some reason I really don't like the idea of shimming it with washers

I didn't like the idea of washers either which is why I got the RRE kit which has one thick spacer instead of bunch of washers.

I don't know about the ingalls rear or SPC rear camber kit... I've never seen them in person or used them.
 
Technically only the washers and bolts are needed, but the other pieces are the same parts that appear in the above picture in post #4, only their the Ingalls edition rather than the Mitsu OEM version. The advantage is those can be adjusted on the alignment rack. Noticed the cam on the side of the Ingalls part.
 
Do they look/feel like quality pieces? Judging by the pictures, both look to be of similar quality (as best you can tell from a picture...).

The only potential advantage I see is the SPC arm can go from -.75* to +1.5* (or maybe +2.0*?) adjustment without any spacers. The Ingalls arm only goes +-1* before you need to add spacers. Prices are similar for both so that isn't a valid point for comparison.
 
They do appear very similar. The finish is nice, zinc coated. I'm sure there's just not enough difference to matter one way or the other.

2 things that come to mind though, like you said, the SPC will be plenty useful without spacers. If I had the option I would like that. But thinking about it, whats the difference? The spacers are hard and the spacers have at least equal mounting surface area so I think my motivation for no spacers might be psychological.
Secondly, I always wonder about the hardware used to adjust your alignment and, specifically, how they grip themselves so well that your alignment doesn't get jacked up with all the wild pounding the parts have to deal with. So, following that line of thought, it strikes me that if the SPC has more adjustment via it's eccentric cam then the cam itself must be larger in diameter and thus giving the rear upper arm a greater mechanical advantage when it comes to the security of your camber settings.

It's likely entirely inconsequential or even just plain incorrect but I well understand that it's not enough to matter.

Get the SPC units, if they're not what you want and they'd still serve my purposes I'd happily trade you.
 
This thread is old but eye opening and the pictures helped. I lowered my car and went to get it alligned today and they did the front but the rear is on me. I need +5 in the rear (Yes it is quite slammed) so I am probably going to work on it tmrw and do the washer/bolt idea. Anyone have any feedback on this? Since I am -5 I plan on going 4-5 washers plus a lockwasher. Any feedback on others work or what I plan on doing is appreciated. Thanks!
 
Not sure how you got to -5*, but if you did, you'll need between 1.25" and 1.50" of washers to get it back to a reasonable amount. You'll, therefore, need even longer bolts that those that most people suggest.
 
What those guys said ^^^ I was somewhere around -3 when I lowered my spyder. I currently have about 5/8" of washers and Ive got somewhere around -1 camber in the rear.. It was pretty bad when I was on Illuminas and sprotlines, but since Ive switched to a fully adjustable coilover I raised the rear up to about half an inch of fender gap and its helped a lot!
 
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