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Re-Tourquing the Head?

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mnetwork

20+ Year Contributor
1,017
2
Feb 25, 2006
New Milford, New Jersey
I just finished my headgasket job and I read a lot about re-tourquing the head studs after a certain amount of miles or time... I have heard so many different things on this, when should I re-tourque the head studs??
 
Not needed, besides, do you feel like taking the cams out to do this?
I assume since you said stud you used arps?
Did you torque them to arp spec?
Use moly lube?

your good.
 
Not needed, besides, do you feel like taking the cams out to do this?
I assume since you said stud you used arps?
Did you torque them to arp spec?
Use moly lube?

your good.

Obviously you don't knwo what you are talking about. Re-torquing the head SHOULD be a requirement, to make sure the nuts on your head studs haven't come loose, as they usually do! Also, you do NOT need to pull the cams out in order to tighten/loosen ANY head bolts/studs/nuts.
 
I did mine after 100 miles. This was so the car could go through a couple of heat cycles, which is the reason the nuts will loosen.
 
So I should re-tourqe the head after a few heat cycles? I just want to get an idea of what people do... And before re-tourqing, do I have to go easy on the car or anything?
 
Yes, retorque after a few heat cycles. I wouldn't beat on it at all until you retorque it.
 
What else do I do? I torqued the studes down to 85ftlbs in the proper steps. When I re-torque should I just torque to 85ftlbs again in the proper pattern, or should I do it in increments like the first time?
 
So, re-torque after the heat cycles.... So, being that the nuts come loose - would you then re-torque right after the heat cycle when the engine is still hot/warm or when it has cooled down?
 
I believe it's after it has cooled down. It's just too make sure they haven't come loose, which 9/10 times they do a little bit, usually not enough to worry me. I have found just re-torquing them to spec once not using steps, using the proper pattern works cause usually they are still pretty tight.
 
Yes it should be done after the engine has cooled down so all the metal can contract. If you do it when the engine is warm they might not be as loose as if when it cools down. I would just torque right to the specified number as said before.
 
I retorque my studs after one heat cycle (idling, light throttle).
Allow the motor to completely cool before retorquing.
I individually loosen each nut a 1/4 turn past being free and retorque to 85 ft/lbs moving to the next in the proper sequence.

After the intial retorque, I generally do it again after 15-20 hard passes above 35psi unless something else goes wrong before then.
 
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