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race city race parts hoses?Anyone

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jpmxrider489

15+ Year Contributor
2,415
152
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
As some of you seen my other thread on radiators,im now looking for a rad hose. Im ok with spending money so im not looking to cheap out. Im going to get weld bungs. Has anyone use the racecity parts of ebay? They seem to have real good prices on hoses. Its around 150 bucks cheaper. This is going to be a drag car. 600hp goal.:thumb:

1 What your thaughts?

2 Should I go to -20 or -16?

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

brake pads, Hose items in RACE CITY RACE PARTS store on eBay!
 
I have no information on these parts but can say that eBay and 600 hp don't often go together ... unless you start with a car with 800 hp.
 
I have no information on these parts but can say that eBay and 600 hp don't often go together ... unless you start with a car with 800 hp.

Ya I hear ya there. It's just a hose. That's why I'm considering it. There was a thread a while back where Chris was looking into jay racing water pump and someone said he was using these but havent heard anymore.

As far as fitting size, -16 or -20?
 
The rad inlet/outlet are 1 3/8 inch, so a -20an (1 1/4) would be closer. a -16an is only 1 inch. There are radiator adapters to AN fitting adapters, and other couplers you could use without having to weld AN fittings on your rad, thermostat housing and water pipe... (check Jegs and Summit websites).
 
The adapter fittings are around 25 bucks for 1. I would need 4. Ill probably have Morleys (local shop) to weld my fittings for me. But the question still remains, -16 or-20. Many people are using -16 but that would be a downgrade correct? So it makes sense to go 20? Rather be safe then sorry. And has far as the hoses, The links above are around 50 bucks which is a steal. Normally the fittings are 12 each so the hose kinda pays for itself. Any one else use those?
 
Right I would rather be safe then sorry. What do you think about the race city hoses? It doesnt seem like a bad deal but I also dont want something thats going to leak. Is it something that if I can get -20 then go for it?
 
That could work, so that would be $100 in fittings, and $? for the welding. (maybe $20 per weld=$80). Then you have to buy a couple -20an lines for $??. Lotta money for a couple rad hoses! Here is a package that you could just install...that is if you like it.. (it is stainless steel), and you can cut it to length, and bend it to your liking. (Alot less money in the long run). I would only do the top one anyway, the bottom 2G hose will still work with a 1G rad.

JEGS Performance Products 511230 JEGS Stainless Steel Radiator Hose Kits

I looked at the links for the hoses, and they come assembled at certain lengths. And since they don't say what exact type of hose it is, I would not just assume you could cut off an end and put on an Earls Fitting. So if it is too long, than it would have to hang down (which is OK), just personal preference. Prices seem good though!


Good luck!
 
I could get 2 or 4 of these if I go -16.
JEGS Performance Products 15266 JEGS Aluminum AN & NPT Weld Fittings

Icore Stainless Steel hose An-16 38" w/ st & 45 | eBay

Then find a shorter one. So thats 40 for fittings and another 60 for the hoses on ebay. I could go that route. Morleys charges 40 and hour, so not sure how long it will take for 4 fittings. But even still it will be cheaper than putting together my own. Just the hose will run 70. I know all these numbers being thrown around can get confusing. But Im still curious on why people run -16 if its a slight downgrade. I only seen 1 guy using these hoses. I guess I can try them and see what happens, then if it turns out well other people could use them.
 
I have welded in fitings and love them (came with the radiator so am not aware of how to install) but look freaked sweet.
 
I have used this vendor several times before, always perfect transactions and extremely high quality parts. As for the fitting size, if you purchase all your hoses from them and have a radiator already set up for -20AN, go for it. If you have to piece anything together later on with new parts, go -16AN, as there are very few manufacturers that make -20AN, specifically BMRS and Progold are the best ones, are very expensive, as in $125-150 for one angled hose fitting in -20AN vs. $75 for the equivilant -16AN fitting. Personally, I run -20AN on my setup as I have a custom radiator designed for it.

Tim Zimmer via Evo Phone
 
Many people use -16 but thats a downgrade. So I guess and upgrade would be -20. Id rather buy once and be done. So you used this vendor? How is the quality? Any leaks or anything? AN hose you put together where these are "CRIMPED" any different?
 
Many people use -16 but thats a downgrade. So I guess and upgrade would be -20. Id rather buy once and be done. So you used this vendor? How is the quality? Any leaks or anything? AN hose you put together where these are "CRIMPED" any different?

Seriously, -16AN will not be a downgrade for a drag car. Heck, you will literally be able to get away with -12AN on a drag car. If it is a street car, then -16AN. If you have a real water pump that can flow volume, then -16AN or -20AN.

For reference, my -20AN fittings and hose cost around $700 for new parts. That was 4x 45* double swivel crimp-on BMRS fittings on kevlar and Icore hose.

To do this with -16AN, you will be around $300-350.

Yes, I have used this vendor numerous times. The parts are high-end NASCAR take-off's as they cycle their parts very regularly due to rules compliance. The parts are not damaged unless described. The quality is that of a professional level racing group like NASCAR. This isn't chinese junk. No leaks, no BS.

The difference between crimped and reusable fittings comes down to application. A crimped fitting is a one-time use for companies like Aeroquip, Earls, Russel, etc. BMRS and ProGold can reuse the fitting and replace the crimp collar; the only thing is that you have to ship the parts to them, give them your specifications for dimensions wanted and they will crimp on a new fitting.

There is no quality difference between crimped vs. reusable. The crimped fittings are normally shorter in length specifically for angled fittings and even with straight fittings in large -AN sizing.

If you are going to purchase -20AN crimped lines, be sure it fits your dimensions; you can't just cut off one end and toss on a different fitting without spending an assload of money.



As well, here are a few other Ebay vendors to watch for quality NASCAR take-off's:

http://stores.ebay.com/id=738044057&ssPageName=STRK:MEFSX:MESST&_trksid=p3984.m1543.l2653

http://stores.ebay.com/id=21800029&ssPageName=STRK:MEFSX:MESST&_trksid=p3984.m1543.l2653

http://stores.ebay.com/id=388357&ssPageName=STRK:MEFSX:MESST&_trksid=p3984.m1543.l2653

http://stores.ebay.com/RACE-CITY-RACE-PARTS?_rdc=1

http://stores.ebay.com/Raceprovenparts?_rdc=1

http://stores.ebay.com/Race-Parts-Liquidators?_rdc=1

I have used all these vendors numerous times. Always perfect.
 
:thumb:
Seriously, -16AN will not be a downgrade for a drag car. Heck, you will literally be able to get away with -12AN on a drag car. If it is a street car, then -16AN. If you have a real water pump that can flow volume, then -16AN or -20AN.

For reference, my -20AN fittings and hose cost around $700 for new parts. That was 4x 45* double swivel crimp-on BMRS fittings on kevlar and Icore hose.

To do this with -16AN, you will be around $300-350.

Yes, I have used this vendor numerous times. The parts are high-end NASCAR take-off's as they cycle their parts very regularly due to rules compliance. The parts are not damaged unless described. The quality is that of a professional level racing group like NASCAR. This isn't chinese junk. No leaks, no BS.

The difference between crimped and reusable fittings comes down to application. A crimped fitting is a one-time use for companies like Aeroquip, Earls, Russel, etc. BMRS and ProGold can reuse the fitting and replace the crimp collar; the only thing is that you have to ship the parts to them, give them your specifications for dimensions wanted and they will crimp on a new fitting.

There is no quality difference between crimped vs. reusable. The crimped fittings are normally shorter in length specifically for angled fittings and even with straight fittings in large -AN sizing.

If you are going to purchase -20AN crimped lines, be sure it fits your dimensions; you can't just cut off one end and toss on a different fitting without spending an assload of money.

Thats all great info. Thanks for the help. I will be calling them tomorow. I could go and measure but how long of a hose are you using for upper and lower. Im lazy. Its been a long day at work. Ill probably be going -16, I just want the best cooling system. :thumb:
 
:thumb:

Thats all great info. Thanks for the help. I will be calling them tomorow. I could go and measure but how long of a hose are you using for upper and lower. Im lazy. Its been a long day at work. Ill probably be going -16, I just want the best cooling system. :thumb:

Dude, my setup is one-off. Nothing on my car would fit yours as bolt-on.

Go and measure your stuff.
 
I agree with Tim; -16 is definitely not a downgrade. The factory radiator hose diameter is much larger than it needs to be. The ports in the thermostat housing are smaller diameter than the I.D. of -16 hose, so the hose and fittings still wouldn't be a restriction of any kind.

I'd recommend -16 for cost savings and the fact that it's a bit easier to manipulate.
 
I wasnt asking asking for it. I was asking for the lenght of the hose. Im going to call them and tell them what I need.

My radiator setup is a side-flow; not a top flow. My inlet and outlet locations have been moved from stock as well. I cannot give you my lengths as they won't mean anything to your setup.
 
My radiator setup is a side-flow; not a top flow. My inlet and outlet locations have been moved from stock as well. I cannot give you my lengths as they won't mean anything to your setup.

Sorry I didnt know I just assumed you were running the 1g or 2g.:ohdamn:

Paul im going with the 1g mishimoto setup.
 
Sorry, but I beg to differ.

I have read too much about their shitty radiator caps, shitty welds, shitty flanges.

Doesn't mean they don't produce products that work, but just because they do doesn't mean they are produce quality. Quality & Quality control is absent in Mishimoto products.
 
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