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Questions about porting my evo III 16g Wastegate

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Ill-EagleTSi

10+ Year Contributor
111
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Oct 17, 2008
Louisville, Kentucky
Okay guys I see tons of threads on this but no pics of any ones port job afterwards.

I just got done porting my evo III 16g. I already have the 34mm flapper, but the hole behind the flapper was only about 17mm.
So I ported out the hole quite a bit. Now there is only a few milli meters all the way around where the flapper shuts. Is that okay??

I also took off that ledge where the turbine housing bolts to the 02 housing. There was like a lip right where the wastegate dumped out. You know...its the partition between the exhaust side and the wastegate side. There was a ledge/lip there so I smoothed that out too, so the air didn't have to go up and over that lip. Can that separator between the wastgate and exhaust outlet be removed all together?? I know I have seen turbos with NO divider between the wastegate and the exhaust side. What is the benefit of having or not having the divider?

I also notice that the wastegate arm only opens the flapper up like a 1/2 inch. I have seen other threads where the guy cut open the wastegate accuator to extend the movement. Is that the only way to make this arm move more?
 
Well, first things first, post some pics of your port job to see how it looks. When you took out the ring step, did you port match to the larger 7cm gasket? If so, you'll want to match it with the exhaust manifold too. Porting the wastegate area, did you make an straight-on port job to the wastegate outlet (removing the bulge and taking more matarial out)?

Gasket side: Wastegate outlet hole, the hole enlargement sounds good. Would not suggest removing the divider, there are some threads about it. Mainly, you ruin a good turbine housing.

Porting out the wastegate area properly, you won't have creep issues so you shouldn't need to worry about the actuator mod. The flapper opens enough to get the gasses out. Took me 2 porting sessions to solve my creep issues. Holds steady at 10psi instead of the 20+psi when the actuator was disconnected.

I think that sums it up.
 
Thanks for the great info! Im not sure what the ring step is? I am going to go take pics right now. I basically enlarged everywhere the wastegate gas flows through.

The reason I am doing this is cause I run a 3" open downpipe which is giving me wicked boost creep. I just hope I can mod this turbo enough to eliminate my Creep for good. My wastegate hole is about 28mm - 30mm now. I would hope that would be enough. seeing as most externals are 38mm right?

Pics in 20 min!
 
subscribed.

hopefully he knew what he was doing when he started porting stuff, never the less I am interested to see
 
Okay here is some pics The reason the hole looks oblong is cause I ported the top part at an angle so that the exhaust would flow in easier than going around a sharp turn.

The pic with the red marks is where it was before I ported it.

I also Matched the gasket and o2 housing to the same size opening.

Can anyone tell me if this is an Evo 3 o2 housing? It has 60mm inlet and outlet? I was told by the previous owner tht the o2 and exhaust mani were from an Evo3.

The Manifold flange does seem a lot thicker than a regular 2g one.
 

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You've done way more than you have to around the wastegate. Remember that when you start reaching the threshold where your wastegate actuator starts activating it only moves the wastegate arm slightly. You'll never reach that 90 degree angle and honestly I doubt you'll even reach much more than 15 degrees. Furthermore porting the wastegate hole out too much will cause you to have an issue when you reach the point when you are trying to max out your turbo because it will start to blow open the wastegate.
 
Awesome thanks! How can you tell?

By the size of the outlet which is bigger than that on a 2G housing (60mm vs ~55mm). Also the location of the O2 sensor bung is different. On a 2G housing I would expect to be able to barely see it just above the stud on the right hand side in the above pics.


Is my porting job okay? Do I need more or less porting?

Since you're there I would continue to port the O2 housing outlet to match a 2.5" exhaust gasket which will put it at about 63mm.

I would not do any more porting on the turbine housing.
 
You've done way more than you have to around the wastegate. Remember that when you start reaching the threshold where your wastegate actuator starts activating it only moves the wastegate arm slightly. You'll never reach that 90 degree angle and honestly I doubt you'll even reach much more than 15 degrees. Furthermore porting the wastegate hole out too much will cause you to have an issue when you reach the point when you are trying to max out your turbo because it will start to blow open the wastegate.

So did I do too much? I only notched out that top part so I could open the flapper up wider and gain access to the hole. I noticed that the acuator doesn't move much. I just want to be able to run 22 psi and have NO creep with a wide open 3 inch downpipe and no cat or muffler. Is it possible?

Don't waste your timing messing with this. Get the supporting mods to run a real amount of boost and be done with it. If you're going to run < 20 psi, just run a 14B instead. Besides, doing this will potentially hurt you once you decide to attempt to run more boost.

But the way it was before i would creep to 26-30 psi at like 5000 rpm with the boost controller all the way down. I have a 3" open cut out pipe which makes me build unlimited boost levels. I thought this porting would help me keep it at 22psi. I have 550's/walbro 255 and SAFCII.

I don't think a 16g should be hitting 30 psi even if I had supporting mods for that.

Either way Im not adding a more restrictive exhaust...I want this to work with my 3" open pipe for track use.
 
When I got my car, I thought it was at 26psi, put in a different gauge and it was only 17. I have straight through 3" exhaust, and I creep to 17 if I turn the boost down. I think it made about the same boost even with actuator arm disconnected from the flapper, so not opening far enough is not the issue.

Just look down in your turbine housing from the manifold side, you'll see a pretty square corner to get to the wastegate hole. You need to round that corner a bit, and you'll be in good shape. This is what I did and I can go as low as 17psi (not like I want to, as my car is fast at 22psi and hopeless at 17). I don't know what it was like before, because like I said, I thought it was at 26 but it was just an inaccurate boost gauge.
 
Yes I checked it with 2 different gauges...and I re-ran all the hose. Checked the MBC connections and all. It is deff hitting at least 26 psi. First it goes to like 10 psi then It creeps up to 26. I sometimes hit fuel cut at around 5k. But I usually let off the gas by then. I literally have about 3 feet of 3" exhaust and that is it. It opens up right before the cat. I can hear the turbo spooling just from revving it up slightly. Then if I screw the cap back on the cut out pipe and use the stock catback it stops creeping cause I have more back pressure.
 
That should flow alot more than when you started and don't worry that you may have gotten it too big. As long as it seals there are some tricks to increase the tension on the actuator arm such as adding a throttle return spring or making the arm adjustable. But you can cross that bridge if you get there. :)
 
I did this to mine first time porting It didnt solve my boost creep all the way but cut it in half I get 10 PSI at 3500 and creeps to 15 by 5k it wants to go to 20 sometimes other times it keeps 15 to redline, but either way its not running like it should 15 psi to redline. but before I couldnt get boost at at without this turbo going past 20 psi so it helped a bit. I got 3 inch 02 housing back exhaust no cat or res.
 

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Thanks everyone! How does my porting look Afro? Im going to re-install the turbo today and try it. Do you guys think its ported enough? Can anyone tell me what I can port on this EVO 3 exhaust Manifold? I looked at the VFAQ but they dont say much about what I can and can't remove.

Can I thin out this spliter in the middle of the hole??
 

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I know money is always an issue, why can't you guys just save yourselves the headaches, save up a little, and go external wastegate ? Problem solved for good.
 
I want my car to be mostly stock appearing. No monster turbos, no fart cans, no external wastegates, no external dumps, no racing seats, no stickers.

That is why I added this 3" cut off pipe. It lets me run a stock exhaust on the streets/ yet i have the option to run open down pipe at the track. I like the look of the stock manifold with a nice clean stock heat shield.

If this porting doesn't help then I will try to put and external on my stock manifold. Is that possible to just weld a flage on to the stock mani?
 
I want my car to be mostly stock appearing. No monster turbos, no fart cans, no external wastegates, no external dumps, no racing seats, no stickers.

That is why I added this 3" cut off pipe. It lets me run a stock exhaust on the streets/ yet i have the option to run open down pipe at the track. I like the look of the stock manifold with a nice clean stock heat shield.

If this porting doesn't help then I will try to put and external on my stock manifold. Is that possible to just weld a flage on to the stock mani?

O.K., just put down that die grinder and step away from that turbine housing, whatever your demands are I'm sure that we can negotiate:D Just kidding, that is some serious port work though.
 
YES YES YES!!! It worked!! I put all my stuff back on the car and opened my downpipe wide open and NOOOO boost creep anymore!!! Now I set the controller at 10 and it stays 10 with the cutout open OR CLOSED! Either way it stays at 10 all the way to 7500. :D:D :D :D :D :D :D

Now Im assuming if I turn it up to 20 it will stay at 20 and NOT creep to 26-28
 
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