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Questions about coil on plug ignition

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talontsiboy24

10+ Year Contributor
868
3
Mar 28, 2009
60457, Illinois
Is this true: difference between 2.7 and 3.5 coils is that 3.5 coils are higher output coils and used for 500+ hp applications 2.7 are good up to 500 hp? im running about 350whp now so id go with the 2.7 coils right?

also are cop better then wires and stock coil pack? i was thinkin to buy a cop because my stock coil pack is goin bad on my car so i think and i keep getting a check engine light for p0304 and p0300 misfires. mechanic said its my coil pack since i replaced the spark plugs and wires and still got misfires. i gapped the plugs at .026.

these are my mods:
Forced Performance Green 730cfm Turbo with external dump
Dejon intake pipe/K&N FIPK
Walbro 255 fp
660 injectors
Tial waste gate
Ported manifold
Greddy oil catch can
Greddy type S BOV
Greddy Large Intercooler Kit
Greddy IC pipes


Electronics:
Greddy profec b boost controller
Greddy 60mm silver face boost gauage & Greddy ext temp gauage
HKS turbo timer
Jumptronix air/fuel meter
Apexi S-afc


Full 3" Turbo Exhaust:
Hahn 3" DP~Hi Flow Cat
Thermal 3" exhaust with 5" tip
 
Stick with the stock coils and wires. They have been more than proven.
 
From what I have come to understand the COP setup is more of a cosmetic choice then a performance one. There are plenty of people making tons of power with a plug and wire setup. On the other hand it does look cool and as long as you have a uh.... forget what it is called but I think ignition booster is the general idea behind it, I don't see and issue with making the change if thats what your into. As far as which one you need, idk but just wanted to put my $.02
 
I couldnt disagree more.Please elaborate as why they arn't better.

Its pretty easily actually. COP w/o an ignition box sucks. Ask anyone that has tried to run decent boost on a COP setup with no box and they all experience spark blowout anywhere from 25psi-30psi depending on plug gap. Me personally, I couldnt run anymore than 28psi on .018 plug gap w/o serious spark blowout. With the factory coil pack and NGK wires I have yet to reach the limits with my plugs gapped at .018. If you also want to cough up 300+ dollars for a ignition box then COP's work fine.

EDIT: Not to mention my car runs better overall w/o the COP setup. Missfires while cruising and stupid stuff like that totally went away when I switched back to stock.
 
Its pretty easily actually. COP w/o an ignition box sucks. Ask anyone that has tried to run decent boost on a COP setup with no box and they all experience spark blowout anywhere from 25psi-30psi depending on plug gap. Me personally, I couldnt run anymore than 28psi on .018 plug gap w/o serious spark blowout. With the factory coil pack and NGK wires I have yet to reach the limits with my plugs gapped at .018. If you also want to cough up 300+ dollars for a ignition box then COP's work fine.

EDIT: Not to mention my car runs better overall w/o the COP setup. Missfires while cruising and stupid stuff like that totally went away when I switched back to stock.

my gap is now at .026 and i still get misfires and i have put new ngk me77 wires and bpr7es plugs so i dunno should i just replace my coil pack with a stock one instead of cop?
 
Just close your gap up some more. Your coils are most likely fine. COP is not a good setup for these cars - RRE even mentions how good the stock DSM coils are in their book for 4g63s if you need a professional opinion. Why people go COP on DSMs I'll never understand.
 
Just close your gap up some more. Your coils are most likely fine. COP is not a good setup for these cars - RRE even mentions how good the stock DSM coils are in their book for 4g63s if you need a professional opinion. Why people go COP on DSMs I'll never understand.
Trust me its not my gap sometimes I will just go start the car and let it idle for a few and get a check engine light for misfire or ill clear the codes and drive the car for a while and it will come back on or the next day so I really do think I need a new coil packs. i mean before my gap for my plugs was .028 and then last month i put new ones in and gapped them at .026 and i still keep getting check engine light for misfires.
 
I couldnt disagree more.Please elaborate as why they arn't better.

These coils weren't designed to run on a wasted spark system. They don't have enough charge time setup like this. The dwell times are wrong and you have to close down your plug gaps at higher boost, which lends itself to other problems in itself. If you can set them up properly, they work decent. Hell, I have a coil on plug setup, granted I run AEM and a dynatek. However, they'd still work better if you could set them so each coil could run on it's own ignition channel. I'm just saying, for a straight swap for the average joe, it isn't an upgrade, I've tried it.;)
 
how can i make sure my coil packs are all working?

You can test the resistance, etc. I'm sure the info is on here somewhere or on another site.
COP seems to be more trouble than it's worth for most and the stock ignition is plenty capable if its up to spec.
 
You can test the resistance, etc. I'm sure the info is on here somewhere or on another site.
COP seems to be more trouble than it's worth for most and the stock ignition is plenty capable if its up to spec.

my idle is jumpy at stops and i had a mechanic test my alternator and said it failed the test meaning its not giving out enough power so its goin bad so can that be why my idle is jumpy?
 
If your alternator was bad, your battery power would run out after around whatever the battery reserve is and than your car would be dead. Its possible i guess for your alternator to be low charging, which the voltage can be tested with a multimeter. Maybe your mechanic sees you as a dollar sign$. Autozone does free charging system checks, get a second opinion.
 
If your alternator was bad, your battery power would run out after around whatever the battery reserve is and than your car would be dead. Its possible i guess for your alternator to be low charging, which the voltage can be tested with a multimeter. Maybe your mechanic sees you as a dollar sign$. Autozone does free charging system checks, get a second opinion.

well thats what happens if i leave the car off with the radio on for like 10min my car wont start so i think i do need a new one.
 
well thats what happens if i leave the car off with the radio on for like 10min my car wont start so i think i do need a new one.

10min with a stock radio or subs/amp,etc? If you got a high powered stereo, 10mins with the car off will drain your battery.
 
My dad's GST was doing the same thing. It turned out his alternator was not putting out enough juice. After he swapped it idle issues and misfires went away. We also replaced wires and plugs prior to the alternator and noticed no difference.
 
My dad's GST was doing the same thing. It turned out his alternator was not putting out enough juice. After he swapped it idle issues and misfires went away. We also replaced wires and plugs prior to the alternator and noticed no difference.

im def replacing my alternator because i went to a mechanic and had them hook it up for a test and it failed he said it wasnt putting out enough so ill replace that and see what happens if i still get misfires then im gonna see whats up with my compression and coilpack.
 
im def replacing my alternator because i went to a mechanic and had them hook it up for a test and it failed he said it wasnt putting out enough so ill replace that and see what happens if i still get misfires then im gonna see whats up with my compression and coilpack.

Take it to Autozone, have them test your battery and alternator for free to get a second opinion. This will give you an idea if your mechanic is being somewhat honest with you or looking to get paid.
What does your car idle at and does it idle smooth? I know you say you're getting misfires, but is it all the time?
You're not that far from AMS, you should just take it there if you're not inclined to do any of this work yourself.
That way you know you have DSM mechanics working on your car and not a Explorer/Cavalier mechanic.
 
Take it to Autozone, have them test your battery and alternator for free to get a second opinion. This will give you an idea if your mechanic is being somewhat honest with you or looking to get paid.
What does your car idle at and does it idle smooth? I know you say you're getting misfires, but is it all the time?
You're not that far from AMS, you should just take it there if you're not inclined to do any of this work yourself.
That way you know you have DSM mechanics working on your car and not a Explorer/Cavalier mechanic.

yea i will be goin to autozone before i decide on buying one. my idle is not smooth its jumpy when the car is warmed up and im at stops.

as for the misfires its like everyday that i drive the check engine light comes on. sometimes i clear it and it will not come back on for a while or not even the next day but it does come back for the same codes P0300 P0304. i have a appointment at ams for june 10th but thats for a tune but im sure they can get my car right and let me know whats wrong with it have them do some tests....

when the car is warmed up it does start up right away but overnight on a cold start it wont it takes like 2 cranks then it starts up.
 
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