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Question about changing brakes

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Boost92awd

15+ Year Contributor
1,316
6
Jan 23, 2008
Waukesha, Wisconsin
Alright guys got a question for you. I'v always been one that when your brakes get bad, I would never just buy pads. Always pads and rotors. Or if you werent to buy rotors you would atleast have the rotors cut. I'v done quite a few brakes jobs in my time and everytime I'v always done new pads and new rotors.


Now my question is, is it good or bad to put new pads on warn rotors that havent been cut? Yeah, I know you will have to factor in how bad the rotors are worn and if there warped. But wouldnt it cause the pads to wear uneven? Just wonder cause I'm about to do a brake job on my buddies car and hes content on just changing the pads and I said he should buy the rotors also or have them cut.
 
You have 2 options:
1) Buy new pads and resurface the rotors
2) Buy new pads and replace the rotors.

Take the look at your old pads when you take them out, chances are they aren't evenly worn out.
 
You have 2 options:
1) Buy new pads and resurface the rotors
2) Buy new pads and replace the rotors.

Alright thanks, thats exaclty what I was thinking just wanted a second opinion. I hate when people try to cut corners on something so important as brakes.
 
Turning the rotors may make them look shiny and new but there is no performance benefit. New pads will soon match the contors of the rotors. I personally never turn the rotors unless I am getting pulsation and I would only replace them if they are at or near the minimum thickness. I get about three sets of pads to a set of rotors.
 
Yes, turning the rotor, cutting the rotor, resurfacing the rotor - all the same thing.

I get about three sets of pads to a set of rotors.

Lucky you! I get one set of pads for one set of rotors. I'm going to go with brembo blanks instead of brembos that are cross-drilled and slotted next time.
 
Yes, turning the rotor, cutting the rotor, resurfacing the rotor - all the same thing.



Lucky you! I get one set of pads for one set of rotors. I'm going to go with brembo blanks instead of brembos that are cross-drilled and slotted next time.


OMG I couldn't agree with you more. Brembo blanks definately the next time round. Not that slotted and drilled are horrible or anything, but for daily driving it just makes much more sense to get blanks.
 
I've put pads on rotors that'd been cratered by being run on worn-out pads, the pad backing steel cutting into the rotor. It made no difference in how the brakes worked, nor how long the pad lasted, much to my surprise.
Cutting rotors removes heat-dissipating mass, and takes away a small amount of strength. I stopped having them turned in the eighties.
As cheaply as you can get quality rotors for DSMs, I'd not bother messing with discs that show significant wear.
We have a thread around here showing someone's rotor failure, but I can't find it. Naturally.
 
+1 on the blank rotors. You get more stopping power out of a blank rotor than you do out of a drilled/slotted rotor. Drilled/slotted are just for looks these days as pads compounds dont let out gas, which was the whole reason for drilled/slotted rotors. Now days they are just used for the bling factor.
 
When I changed my brakes I bought new rotors since the old ones were pretty rusted and warped. I don't like turning rotors since it makes them thinner and more prone to warp. The only problem I had was getting the rotor off. It was rusted on and my 10lb sledge would not budge the rotors. The screw holes in the rotors that manual that tells you to use were worthless and the bolts just stripped. I finally got the rotors off by using a large bolt and two nuts/washers through the caliper bolt holes. Basically puts enough pressure on the rotor to remove them. It trashes the rotor though so it can't be turned.
 
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