Question about Adjusting Pedal

[oneslowwdsm]

So I watched jacks transmissions youtube video on how exactly to adjust the 2g clutch pedal. It seems like when he applies pressure on the slave cylinder, it releases back to its original position on its own but the video is kind of blury and I can't tell. If the slave is pushed by hand, is it supposed to pop back out on its own without pushing the clutch in? I'm having some problems adjusting mine because the slave seems to go in no matter where the adjustment rod is but it doesn't come back. Any input?

 

[2GAWD4U2NV]

So I watched jacks transmissions youtube video on how exactly to adjust the 2g clutch pedal. It seems like when he applies pressure on the slave cylinder, it releases back to its original position on its own but the video is kind of blury and I can't tell. If the slave is pushed by hand, is it supposed to pop back out on its own without pushing the clutch in? I'm having some problems adjusting mine because the slave seems to go in no matter where the adjustment rod is but it doesn't come back. Any input?

The slave cylinder should spring back once pressed in. This keeps the self-adjusting ability intact. If yours does not spring back (slow bleed off) to the clutch fork then I can imagine you're having some transmission problems.

Make sure you have bled your clutch to remove any air. Then do as his video describes. I used this same video over a month ago and it took maybe 5 minutes (I did the adjusting by myself) to have full pedal travel/pressure.

Simply make a big adjustment until your slave cylinder actually rebounds, and then make fine adjustment to make your slave cylinder rebound, but at a slower pace.

After that you should be good to go!

 

[crash89]

It is supposed to bleed back to the original position.. It will bleed out kind of slow. Have you adjusted the rod to both maxes? Its kind of a pain in the ass when you're doing it yourself because you're in and out frequently..

 

[oneslowwdsm]

Yeah I adjusted the rod all the way in and out both ways I think I tried every thread on the adjustment rod and the slave does not spring back on its own. Once the clutch pedal is pushed then yeah it jumps back in and is fine. So frustrated, I think I need a new slave possibly. There is no air in the system I bled it and the fluid is clean.

I adjusted the rod to the point where it was getting hard to push the slave in (but not impossible) It seems to shift fine regular driving but high rpm's it feels a bit notchy.

 

[zachakagoat]

Yeah I adjusted the rod all the way in and out both ways I think I tried every thread on the adjustment rod and the slave does not spring back on its own. Once the clutch pedal is pushed then yeah it jumps back in and is fine. So frustrated, I think I need a new slave possibly. There is no air in the system I bled it and the fluid is clean.

I adjusted the rod to the point where it was getting hard to push the slave in (but not impossible) It seems to shift fine regular driving but high rpm's it feels a bit notchy.

So how long has this been an issue? To me it sounds like when you are driving that you would have your clutch disengage nearly right off of the floor if at all. If the slave is not self adjusting back to hold against the clutch fork then you will be requiring the clutch pedal to be depressed even further to get the slave to press the clutch fork.

How many miles are on the slave cylinder? Luckily it is a pretty easy swap if you replace it with a new one (I just went with an exedy master and slave along with a SS clutch line) as if you replace the slave the master is probably close to failing as well. Most people will recommend an OEM replacement but I have never had any issues with exedy on my builds.

You could also try a slave or master cylinder rebuild kit if you want to remain OEM but it just didn't seem worth it to me.

On a side note, when you mention "notchy", the clutch system should not have any input into the ability for the tranny to actually move into gear. Not sure what the "notchy"-ness was you are exactly referring to though.

 

[oneslowwdsm]

So how long has this been an issue? To me it sounds like when you are driving that you would have your clutch disengage nearly right off of the floor if at all. If the slave is not self adjusting back to hold against the clutch fork then you will be requiring the clutch pedal to be depressed even further to get the slave to press the clutch fork.

How many miles are on the slave cylinder? Luckily it is a pretty easy swap if you replace it with a new one (I just went with an exedy master and slave along with a SS clutch line) as if you replace the slave the master is probably close to failing as well. Most people will recommend an OEM replacement but I have never had any issues with exedy on my builds.

You could also try a slave or master cylinder rebuild kit if you want to remain OEM but it just didn't seem worth it to me.

On a side note, when you mention "notchy", the clutch system should not have any input into the ability for the tranny to actually move into gear. Not sure what the "notchy"-ness was you are exactly referring to though.

This has been an issue since I replaced my clutch. It now has an ACT "2600" PP with ACT 6 puck unsprung with an OEM TOB. The pivot ball and fork "looked fine" when I had the car disassembled. After I did the install, I did the "clutch drag" test and I was creeping forward a bit at around ~6500 RPM. Ever since I've been messing with the rod.

I'm going to be replacing the slave cylinder tomorrow and go from there. Not sure of the mileage but you are right, the clutch disengages maybe an inch or two from the floor and this doesn't seem to change no matter how I adjust the rod.

By notchy, I meant not smooth. This is my 4th 2g and I know how it should feel at high RPM's and it seems like the engagement just isn't there.

 

[zachakagoat]

This has been an issue since I replaced my clutch. It now has an ACT "2600" PP with ACT 6 puck unsprung with an OEM TOB. The pivot ball and fork "looked fine" when I had the car disassembled. After I did the install, I did the "clutch drag" test and I was creeping forward a bit at around ~6500 RPM. Ever since I've been messing with the rod.

I'm going to be replacing the slave cylinder tomorrow and go from there. Not sure of the mileage but you are right, the clutch disengages maybe an inch or two from the floor and this doesn't seem to change no matter how I adjust the rod.

By notchy, I meant not smooth. This is my 4th 2g and I know how it should feel at high RPM's and it seems like the engagement just isn't there.

This definitely seems to be a combination of a failing slave cylinder (if the slave isn't bouncing back as it should) or potentially a slightly worn pivot ball, clutch fork, or flywheel. Is your flywheel a factory resurfaced flywheel? Also, did you check to see the location of the clutch fork in the tranny case (it's position relative to the driver's or passenger side) before buttoning everything back up into the transmission? Depending on the parts put back on you may or may not have needed to shim the pivot ball to get the correct pivot angle for the clutch fork. I know with the ACT 2600 you will potentially have a disengagement closer to the floor but a properly shimmed pivot ball, adjusted clutch pedal, WORKING slave cylinder, and potentially trimming the carpet under the clutch pedal should have you working decently.

 

[oneslowwdsm]

I'm not sure of the positioning. After installing the throw out bearing, I made sure the fork was throwing the tob with no play in the fork. The flywheel is an ACT lightweight flywheel. The surface looked decently clean and didn't seem worn at all, the step height should be fine as I was not having this problem before with the same flywheel. I'm going to try trimming the carpet as well. Hopefully I didn't damage any synchro's or anything running this way, I'll definitely update the thread.

 

[2GAWD4U2NV]

I'm not sure of the positioning. After installing the throw out bearing, I made sure the fork was throwing the tob with no play in the fork. The flywheel is an ACT lightweight flywheel. The surface looked decently clean and didn't seem worn at all, the step height should be fine as I was not having this problem before with the same flywheel. I'm going to try trimming the carpet as well. Hopefully I didn't damage any synchro's or anything running this way, I'll definitely update the thread.

I needed this after I installed my ACT 2600.

DSM Extended Clutch Slave Cylinder Rod - Modern Automotive Performance

Pretty inexpensive fix.

 

[zachakagoat]

I needed this after I installed my ACT 2600.

DSM Extended Clutch Slave Cylinder Rod - Modern Automotive Performance

Pretty inexpensive fix.

I personally would be VERY careful about using the extended slave cylinder as it is typically just a bandaid for a bigger problem. If the clutch is adjusted all the way out the extended rod can potentially put a bad angle on the clutch fork and cause additional problems that weren't there before. However, considering the the OP has a bad slave to begin with this still wouldn't solve his problem until that is fixed.