Pulling my engine(FWD)

[Sjd6795]

I recently deciding to start pulling my engine for a small checkup and overhaul. There is a loud ticking noise coming from the timing belt area it's not coming from anything internal. I noticed the timing belt cover was rubbed through in several places, so I figured the belts and pulleys were making the noise. I bought and replaced the cover still to have no luck getting rid of the sound. So any insight on this would but helpful. I have a OEM timing belt kit, waterpump, and balance shaft eliminate kit so I hope that will fix it.

Now to get on with the pulling the engine question. I have everything (I think) undone that needs to be, I've never pulled an engine before but it seems a little more tricky in a FWD then it would a RWD. Mainly because of the axles what are the steps to removing them? Another thing I haven't removed any of the Power steering lines or AC components, what is the minimum I need to remove on the belt side to pull the engine. Also any insight on tricky vacuum lines and electrical wires that I may of missed that need to be undone before I lift and break something would be nice.

 

[bryanwheat]

You don't have to remove the ps lines or ac lines. Just unbolt both and sit them aside in the engine bay. No need to make a big mess with ps fluid everywhere.

 

[Sjd6795]

Ok cool. I think a mess is a understatement either way I do it, everything in the engine bay has a inch thick layer of oil and grease stuck to it. But less work is always a plus.

 

[06legacygt]

I've removed quite a few dsm engines when I worked for mitsubishi and I always try and leave what I can attached if possible. As stated the power steering and ac both can just be unbolted and laid out of the way. Just watch the lines when you go to pull the engine that they don't get caught or pinched.

 

[mowgli5555]

Good luck... Pulling the engine isn't too bad.
I just try to keep the bolts as organized as possible.

If you have a camera phone, it sure doesn't hurt to document electrical and supporting brackets in the bay. Josh

 

[Agll30]

I recently deciding to start pulling my engine for a small checkup and overhaul. There is a loud ticking noise coming from the timing belt area it's not coming from anything internal. I noticed the timing belt cover was rubbed through in several places, so I figured the belts and pulleys were making the noise. I bought and replaced the cover still to have no luck getting rid of the sound. So any insight on this would but helpful. I have a OEM timing belt kit, waterpump, and balance shaft eliminate kit so I hope that will fix it.

That loud ticking noise you hear from your timing belt could be a loose tensioner pulley.

 

[Sjd6795]

I figured it was something lose in that area. I haven't had the chance until now to pull the engine so I've been daily driving it like that for several months. I guess I got lucky and didn't ruin my head.[DOUBLEPOST=1410486249][/DOUBLEPOST]

I've removed quite a few dsm engines when I worked for mitsubishi and I always try and leave what I can attached if possible. As stated the power steering and ac both can just be unbolted and laid out of the way. Just watch the lines when you go to pull the engine that they don't get caught or pinched.

Yea I just did that for the Power steering but my AC hasn't been charged for years so depending on what's easier I'll either unbolt it from the engine or just remove the lines. I'm about to remove the axles now which way does the nut turn?

 

[Agll30]

Good thing it didn't come apart, since it's an interference engine, you would have damaged your head. Double check everything before you finish, so that you don't have to worry about it later down the road. Good luck!!

 

[SrKegler]

Righty tighty, lefty loosey

 

[Sjd6795]

Thanks I have everything to replace I just have to make sure I do it right. Having problems getting the axle nut broke lose now. I already have it up on jack stands and a transmission jack under the oil pan for now because I have the motor mount at the timing belt cover lose. I'm not wanting to dig the spare out of the back put it on, put the motor mount back on, jack the car up, remove the jack stands and then have to put it all back when I'm done. I'll just wait until can get someone over here to hold the brakes.

Righty tighty, lefty loosey

Yea I know that much . I just know I've seen cars that are the opposite with the axle nut.

 

[Agll30]

You could also put like a block of wood or something on the brake pedal to hold it in place while you loosen the nut.

 

[Sjd6795]

I put a 2x4 on the edge of my seat and put it all the way forward but it still didn't hold the brake tight enough which my brakes are about worn out to begin with.

 

[Agll30]

I put a 2x4 on the edge of my seat and put it all the way forward but it still didn't hold the brake tight enough which my brakes are about worn out to begin with.

Oh okay. I just remembered i used a flathead screwdriver to stop the rotor from spinning jamming it in place, so i can loosen the axle nut, try that.[DOUBLEPOST=1410489571][/DOUBLEPOST]Jam it using the brake caliper.

 

[Sjd6795]

The screwdriver just get wedged in there but it still spins I even soaked the nut in WD over night.

Nevermind I got it I was stupid and didn't notice the slots in the top of the rotor .

 

[Agll30]

The screwdriver just get wedged in there but it still spins I even soaked the nut in WD over night.

Nevermind I got it I was stupid and didn't notice the slots in the top of the rotor .

Thats great man!! Haha don't worry man it happens.

 

[Sjd6795]

Ok so I've gotten this far what else do I need to remove to get the axle to pop out? I'm lucky to not have any seized and broken bolts so far. I've literally done no work besides electrical and simple bolt on so I'm a noob at this stuff.

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[Agll30]

I know how you feel man. It's all about learning as you go. But is there anything else bolted to your axle? I haven't done it on a 2nd gen yet.[DOUBLEPOST=1410491917][/DOUBLEPOST]This thread may be able to help you
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-awd-front-axle-removal-others-may-apply.100676/

 

[Sjd6795]

It's a 1g fwd and from what I've read the AC bracket has something to do with the axles in awd but I'm not sure about fwd

Oh god that link is so hard to read. It has so many broken pictures and what not on it.

 

[Agll30]

It's not that hard to read it
I found another for a 1g
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/driver-side-cv-axle-seal-removal.394553/

 

[Sjd6795]

Well I got it lose from the hub but I can't figure out how to get it lose from the transfer case

 

[bmxfelon420]

Why pull the engine for checking that stuff? Just remove the driver's side motor mount, loosen the tensioner, pull the timing belt and start spinning the idlers/tensioner to see what it is. Another thing is the CAS trigger plate hitting either the sensor or timing belt, it doesnt make the noise you'd think it would. I'd check that first before you take the whole thing out, personally.

 

[Sjd6795]

Well I need to replace my clutch, my turbo, all the belts. I also have a oil leak and everything in the engine bay is covered with oil so it's hard to trouble shoot the problem. I found some metal shavings in the oil as well and my axle boots are all ripped completely. The car has 202k miles on it and it doesn't look like anyone has taken the time to replace anything on the car besides basic maintance. My radiator also had a dark oil like color so I assume my head gasket needs replacing and I want to clean the engine bay up a bit remove all emission and what not. I replaced the timing cover and I wanted to rip the whole fender off because I don't like working in tight places. I've also never worked on a engine before so I'd rather pull the whole thing and take my time going over it. Oh another thing I got a balance shaft eliminate kit with my OEM timing belt kit from punishment racing and the only way I see to do that is to pull the engine.

 

[bmxfelon420]

Well I need to replace my clutch, my turbo, all the belts. I also have a oil leak and everything in the engine bay is covered with oil so it's hard to trouble shoot the problem. I found some metal shavings in the oil as well and my axle boots are all ripped completely. The car has 202k miles on it and it doesn't look like anyone has taken the time to replace anything on the car besides basic maintance. My radiator also had a dark oil like color so I assume my head gasket needs replacing and I want to clean the engine bay up a bit remove all emission and what not. I replaced the timing cover and I wanted to rip the whole fender off because I don't like working in tight places. I've also never worked on a engine before so I'd rather pull the whole thing and take my time going over it. Oh another thing I got a balance shaft eliminate kit with my OEM timing belt kit from punishment racing and the only way I see to do that is to pull the engine.

Ah I see what you're saying there. You shouldnt have to take the fender off, and if you ever just work on the timing belt in the future you can just remove the motor mount on that side, and lower the engine. You can get to pretty much the whole timing belt side with no issues that way. It drops pretty far down. I appreciate you wanting to take your time though, and you are right, if you're putting a stub shaft in the front that is much easier to do with the engine out.

Also (dont ask me how I know this) but MAKE SURE you torque your stub shaft properly. This is of the utmost importance. Also rotate the inside bearing for the front balance shaft to block that journal off or it'll just bleed oil pressure. I have had catastrophic failures due to someone not doing this properly on my engine.

 

[Sjd6795]

I'll make sure I remember thanks. That's one reason I wanted to make a thread that way everything I may need help with or the stuff I have trouble with is all in one place and I can just leave it pulled up and double check as I go.

I see you have a 2g I don't know if the engine bay is any larger or not but I can barely get my hand between the belts and the side of the engine bay in my 1g. Much less trying to get a ratchet down in there. I also get sharp pains in my hand when trying to work in a tight spot so having the whole thing out helps.[DOUBLEPOST=1410503886][/DOUBLEPOST]Well passenger side axle is now lose. The driver side axle is still in the transfer case I can't figure out how to get it out. I've tried prying it and still no luck. Guess I'll move on to unhooking the AC. What's easier to just leave the AC hooked up to the lines or leave it attached to the block. It's not charged so I don't have to worry about stuff coming out of the lines.[DOUBLEPOST=1410522573][/DOUBLEPOST]Update: I still haven't got the driver side axle out of the transfer case I don't see any clip holding it on.
But I have removed the AC and all the components, lines, condenser, condenser pump, AC pump. What can I get for the complete AC setup if I was to sell it?

 

[Sjd6795]

Moment of truth. Has anyone ever tried pulling the engine from the side? I feel like I'll give it a shot if not I'll have to attach the rotor back to the control arm and strut knuckle on both sides open the wall behind the car then I can push it into the other side of the garage and have room to do it from the front.

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