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Pulling Codes on a 1G

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Thomas91169

15+ Year Contributor
4,490
28
Jan 18, 2004
modesto, California
Yeah i know, probably the n00best of the n00b questions. I dont have a logger handy since im going to go straight to dsmlink, but that wont be arriving until a month or two (still need a laptop first).

i searched but all i find is people pulling codes for 2g's and doing the keydance for the 2g n/t, nothing about any way or what scantool or whatnot on pulling codes for 1g's. and no, autozone or any other local shop do NOT pull codes for free anymore (and they charge 50-100$ to do so), so there went that.

i picked up a OBDII tester but in my stupidity forgot its a 1g. yes, im an idiot. but ill probably take that back since i didnt open it.

any help is much appreciated, i need to get the CEL cleared/fixed so i can smog the car, get it registered and insured so i can finally get to modding it.
 
OK so i failed in finding a obd1 reader so i got the buzzer and gave it a shot, this is what happened:

SSLLLSSSLSSLLLSSSSLSSL

which i believe gives me

LLSSS - 23 - Camshaft Position Sensor

i checked the sensor like the chiltons said, first for continuity on the #4 pin, which there was. then check for resistance between 4.5-5.3ohm at the #1 pin with the ignition on, and resistance was 1.3ohm, which the chiltons says to replace the harness. replace the harness? like, seriously, the entire ####ing engine harness? or should i just start with a new sensor anyways?

the strange thing is this CEL only came on after the new top end, i bought the car with jumped timing, and even in its crap state, the car was still driveable, and had no CEL. now theres a CEL and the car runs perfectly fine (aside from a few leaks at the TB and being as slow as a stock 1g can be) but the CEL comes on. and strangely, it only comes on after you move the car, when you first turn it on, its fine, until i back out the driveway and take off down the street. ive already repositioned the sensor and im right at 5* of timing where i should be.
 
now im getting

LLLSLSSSSLLLLSLSSSS

which i guess translates into just LSSSS - 14 - TPS!

whatever, im going to a buddies house tomorrow that has a logger and getting some real accurate codes dammit.
 
You've got multiple codes:

SSLLL - 23 (CAS)
SSSL - 31 (knock sensor)
SSSSL - 41 (injectors)
SSL - 21 (coolant temp)
SL - 11 (o2 sensor)
SSSSLLLL 44 (ignition coil, pwr transistor)

>>MODERATOR EDIT: THE ABOVE IS INCORRECT!<<
< The OP is showing only two codes. Remember that each code always begins with a Long pulse and ends with a Short pulse. He is getting
LSSSS - 14 - TPS
LLLLS - 41 - Injector
and it is repeating. Why do we know it is repeating and not showing a code for the knock sensor (31)? Because the codes always start from the lowest number stored and go up. Therefore, you would not get LLLS before LSSSS unless LLLS was the last (highest number) code stored. Clearly, there is also LLLLS which is 41 and it loops back around. >

I doubt your engine has all of these items bad, it sounds to me like there's a problem in the wiring harness somewhere. Check the harness throughly for any exposed wiring or signs of damage. Check the connectors on the ecu to see if they are properly seated (or better yet, unplug them and reseat them so you're 100% sure). Unlike OBD2 diagnostics which will trigger a CEL if a sensor gives a reading out of tolerance, OBD1 will only trigger a CEL if it can't see that sensor at all. All of those errors are the sensors that the ECU can't communicate with, and since the only thing they have in common is that they share the same branch of the wiring harness, that sounds like your most likely culprit.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
im almost 100% sure the harness has no damage, as its been taken off during the head swap (i pulled all the plugs all the way back to the firewall to make it easier). i will check the ecu.

does it make sense the car runs fine? id imagine all of those being screwed would make the car run like ass or not at all.
 
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