Pulling axle from hub..

[98mitsubishigst]

so when you take the castle nut off..

Your suppose to just keep beating the piss out of the axle spline head correct? i been doing this for hours and nothing.. included adding heat and pb blaster.. should its mushrooming the head like no end..

What should i do.

 

[bryanwheat]

It "should just slide right out" The problem is that water gets in there and causes the axle to rust into the hub. Sometimes you can get it out with heat, hammer or a press, other times you will not get it out and have to cut the axle apart and get a new hub assemble.

 

[nickk90]

Id just get a knuckle kit from extreme psi. Its $108 a side. Then get some new hubs and axels. After how much you have to beat on the hubs to get the axel free its probably damaged the hub.

 

[NWHTanK]

Yeah had simular problem with mine. Some morron cross threded the nut. Ive got to get a replacement axel for my swap. If u already messed it up then get a bigger hammer, also i would recomend replacing that bearing.

 

[bryanwheat]

Id just get a knuckle kit from extreme psi. Its $108 a side. Then get some new hubs and axels. After how much you have to beat on the hubs to get the axel free its probably damaged the hub.

You don't need a new knuckle. It is easy get the assembly apart. You just need to separate the outer axle cup from the axle, remove the inner race and balls than cut the cup off with a torch and remove the hub.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

All the suggest above...

OR....

Get a bigger hammer and be a man.

 

[nickk90]

You don't need a new knuckle. It is easy get the assembly apart. You just need to separate the outer axle cup from the axle, remove the inner race and balls than cut the cup off with a torch and remove the hub.

You could do that. But for $108 you get a mew LCA and compression arm along with the knuckle so if your ball joint boots are torn might as well do it all at once. I would change the lower control arm just because I've had 2 break on me

 

[bryanwheat]

All the suggest above...

OR....

Get a bigger hammer and be a man.

If it is seized bad enough it doesn't matter how big of a hammer you have. It won't come out. I've beat them for hours with a 16 lb sledge and did nothing but smash the end of the axle.

 

[jdxnc]

If it is seized bad enough it doesn't matter how big of a hammer you have. It won't come out. I've beat them for hours with a 16 lb sledge and did nothing but smash the end of the axle.

30 ton press didn't budge mine.

 

[nek]

1) rent hub puller from pepboys
2)rent gear puller from pepboys

Even with these, plus pb blaster, plus heat, my right side hub was still stuck to my axel.
Ended up cutting the axel out from the inside and pulling it through the housing with the hub attached. In attempt to save my hub, I took the assembly to pepboys so they could use their 20 ton press to press it out. It didnt work.

Ended up buying a new hub and axel. Imo, if one of the tools from pepboys dont get it out, then its not coming out.
Good luck

 

[Lofty]

No, don't hit it with a hammer repeatedly, you will mushroom out the end of it where the castle nut is and if you mushroomed it out too much now it either will not come out and you run a high chance of ruining your wheel bearing by all that impact, if it's really giving you problems you have to get it pressed out, given you didn't mushroom it out too much, if you did then you'll be in for a bit of more trouble.

I guess if it's already screwed just buy new hubs, as that is almost your last option.

I never have this problem because my transmissions are out way too many times for rust to set in.

 

[ricktb]

All the suggest above...

OR....

Get a bigger hammer and be a man.

well said

 

[knochgoon24]

Order a new axle and hub.


Anytime I have to replace a wheel bearing or axle, I just order both and return what I don't use.

When you reassemble it, apply generous amounts anti-seize.

 

[TheRealMRDyno]

Save yourself some of your life - get a new CV shaft for $60 at Autozone, and a new wheel bearing, and get it torched out of your knuckle. Press out the bearing, and start with new parts.

Or, you can try what I have done:

a) Paid a shop to press the shaft out of the hub - result: broken knuckle - had to get new everything anyway

b) Beat the crap out of it myself - result: have to replace wheel bearing and shaft.

c) Liquid Wrench and light hammer taps for a week with a screw-type hub puller on it, kind of tight, then hub puller with 1/2" impact gun (good to cover up with a heavy towel in case something lets go) - it came out, bearings appeared to be OK, but shaft mushroomed out pretty good, had to grind off last 1/4" of threads to get the nut back on. This is cheaper, but it does take a long time for the Liquid Wrench to do any good. FYI, I found some test results showing that LW was the best of that type of thing, except for a mixture of transmission fluid and acetone (I think). Impact wrench + screw-type puller = big, big forces, like 15,000 pounds if my in-head math is about right, so be careful doing this. It makes me really wonder about the bearing and bearing retaining clip, too.

Joe

 

[luv2rallye]

This is the extra heavy duty hub puller you need to rent - CTA 4320 1" screw: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66514&d=1154592925.

Here's some more tips: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...-wheel-hub-bearing-removal.html#post151512403.