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Axle removal from hub. HELP!

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sschambers

15+ Year Contributor
143
9
Sep 26, 2007
Hermitage, Pennsylvania
Since I have basically my entire front end apart, I was in the process of tearing the axles completely out of the car. There's no engine/tranny in the car. I gave up and pulled the entire spindle out of the car to set in the vice with the axle still attached to the hub...

This is the driver's side, btw.

The axle is seized to the hub. I have everything I need to work on cars, and then some; except for a press...

I tried prying, hammering, torching, and cussing up a storm to get this damn thing out. It's not working. I'm not using just propane, I'm using oxygen/acetylene to get this thing cherry red hot. And it won't budge one bit. I don't want to ruin the threads on the end of the shaft. I've been taking a punch to the center of the shaft and started using a 20lb sledge after using a ballpeen hammer and seeing that wasn't getting me anywhere.

The 20lb sledge isn't doing a damn thing, either. I even tried using a block of wood on the end instead of a punch. No luck. I torched and torched and torched, then beat. Then torched some more. Then pried. I pried it so hard I broke the pry bar :D If I torch any hotter I'm going to start cutting it. I even sprayed it with PB Blaster, let it sit a while...Nothing.

I've never had an axle give me this much trouble...I swear I think someone welded it in there.

So before I throw the spindle through the windshield....Any other suggestions guys?
 
Sounds like every other person on here that tried to to replace the axles before.... do a search and you'll see what i'm talking about...
 
Common problem. I had my car a shop once and they had some sort of press (machine). It didn't work. So i bought a whole new hub.

However, the new shop I go to did this, worked like a charm.

1. Sprayed PB blaster on the part that was seized.

2. Let it sit for at least 10 mins or so

3. Took a really big hammer (sludge) and with big arm strokes, pounded out the axle from the hub.

You axle will be damaged on the one end, so you will need a new axle, but your hub will be fine. I then just put my new axle in when I got it back home.

They recommended that you let the PB blaster sit on it overnight, however they did it in 10 mins.
 
Forgot to mention, I did search on here...And I did use an air hammer. No luck whatsoever.

I found a set of 6" gear pullers. Thought I was in luck. I found a way to rig the pullers up perfectly on the hub, and have the center of it push the axle through while the 'puller' part held on to the hub. Used my air gun on the pullers...

Didn't work either. Even used it in combination with the torch. I just spent the past hour doing this. Now my damn pullers are stuck on there LOL

I'm getting to the point of taking the 20lb sledge to the actual axle itself, I know I'll mess the threads up, but I don't even think that will work. This thing is in there good. Real good. I'm clueless as to what else to do...
 
Well thanks for the help everyone...I decided to give it a try with threading the axle nut on flush with the end of the shaft and taking the 20lb sledge to it...I smacked it so hard for a few times, it starting smashing the nut and axle together. I figured it would but it was my last option...Looks like I'm off to the parts store in the a.m to see what the price of a new spindle/axle/bearing is gonna run...Although before any parts store gets my axle as a core-return, I will be sure to take out my frustration on it LOL.
 
This reminds me of a couple years ago when I had the same problem. I spent several nights trying to avoid buying a new hub. After breaking a puller, using an oxy/acetylene torch, and every other thing I could think of, I took a sawzall and 5" cutoff wheel to the hub and axle. This was the result. I felt much better afterwards ROFL

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Well thanks for the help everyone...I decided to give it a try with threading the axle nut on flush with the end of the shaft and taking the 20lb sledge to it...I smacked it so hard for a few times, it starting smashing the nut and axle together. I figured it would but it was my last option...Looks like I'm off to the parts store in the a.m to see what the price of a new spindle/axle/bearing is gonna run...Although before any parts store gets my axle as a core-return, I will be sure to take out my frustration on it LOL.

If you buy new you are going to empty your wallet. I just went through the same thing last month. What happens is the axle gets rust welded to the hub and there is absolutely no way to separate the two without destroying them. Call MitsubishiGraveyard.com and speak to Gary. I paid $80 for a knuckle/spindle assembly. I think the dealer wanted like $250 new. The part I bought was in better shape than mine was.
 
Thanks joyfil, I'll give that a try.
I called the dealer just a few minutes ago and it's $377 and some change! If worse comes to worse and I can't find a good used one, I'm going to be out over $500 after the new spindle/bearing/axle :(
 
I talked to Joe from SlowBoy Racing. He said I could use an AWD 2nd gen half shaft on my GS-T...Anyone ever heared of this before or have done this? I just wanted to be 100% sure that it will be a perfect fit. Supposedly they're much stronger than the GS-T ones...

Thanks for any help.

Steve
 
I just recently replaced my driver side axle on my 99 gs-t and had a hell of a time getting it out. It was so rusted, it seized to the hub bearing. I had to take a 20lb sledge to it for about 45 minutes of constant hitting and occasional sprays of wd40. I ruined the threads on the axle, but that didnt matter. I ordered another one off of ebay for a little less than $100. After you beat the old one loose, it wont fit through the hub bearing because it mushrooms the tip.Take a grinder to the spindles to take off the "mushroomed" part, and finish tapping it out with a prybar or something similar.
 
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