Problems after engine rebuild and install

[jbouvier]

Alright guys I've done a good amount of research on this and I've really came up with nothing thats helped me. Just finally got my engine installed and everything hooked up. It cranks and turns over but I have to give it gas to get it to start. Upon first startup it had a real bad whining sound so I performed a boost leak test. The gaskets on the throttle body were bad so I bought new ones and replaced them. Re-did the boost leak test and the only place it was leaking air from was the idle adjustment screw, and it was just a small amount. So started her back up still have to give it gas, sounded like a subaru??like it was misfiring. Changed the plug wires. The car sounded a little better. I also have had to completely advance the cam angle sensor to get it to even idle on its own after it starts. I decided to drive it down the block just to see how it would drive. the car saw 0 boost whatsoever. But the car would buck a little and had that same like misfire tone to the exhaust on takeoff or just slight throttle to accelerate it. Whenever I would just let off the gas to let the car slow down on its own it would run fine perfect vacuum and the wideband was reading ~14.8-15.1 and the misfire tone to the exhaust was gone. I really am stumped with this at this moment. The actual timing was checked by a Chrysler technician when I installed the timing belt I used my multi-tester to check the coil and power transistor. What do you guys think? I have no clue. I couldn't find any leaks other than the idle adjustment screw but it still only has 15lbs of vacuum. unless like I said you're driving and let of the gas then its 20-22 and actually sounds right. This thing has been down for 11 weeks and it doubles as my dd so I really want to get this thing running and running properly. As for now it's going to sit until it starts and idles properly. As for specs on the car it is 2.3 stroker with manley rods and wiseco pistons. Compression is 165 all the way across. It has a mild port job on the head HKS 272/272 cams, crower titanium valve springs and retainers 1mm oversize ss valves. Cometic MLS HG. It has a supra fuel pump 780cc injectors and afpr. EPROM ECU. Currently tuning with an afc. I know tuning the 780s will almost be impossible but It's going to be running low boost etc until I can order my dsmlink. 20G turbo FP Race manifold ETS FMIC Greddy BOV ACT 2600lb clutch with ACT flywheel, and full 3" exhaust. Anything would help this situation.

Thanks

James

 

[DSM_PWR]

Any CELs?
What are the plugs gapped to?
Your positive timing is dead on? Timing light check?
Any smoke?
what are the settings on the AFC? Triggers, Hi, Lo..

 

[90laserRSfwd]

Check out a couple things:

1) Air Meter (not sure what set up your running)

2) Caps leaking (or have leaked) inside the ecu

3) Bad plug wire(s) / Incorrectly gaped plugs

4) Clogged (or semi clogged) fuel filter

5) Boost leaks (which you have already noted)

6) My own opinion (because my room mates car is acting the same) Wiring Issue...

 

[jbouvier]

Yea the check engine light would intermittently come on and go off. On my last talon the cars check engine light would come on like that because the o2 sensor would back out but everything tight on this one. I haven't got to check it yet though as I didn't wrap everything up until like midnight. Throttle low point i believe is 35% high is 70%. I don't have a tune on the high end as of yet just the one that I had with my 660's. On the low end I have it leaned out around 15% I believe. The car is in my parents garage. Yes the car is smoking like a blueish black smoke. Almost like fuel oil mixture. If I lean it out much more the car runs even worse.The plugs are gapped to .28. I don't even have my timing cover on yet to use the timing light yet . I was reffering to the cam gears crank and oil pump all lining up. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[jbouvier]

also the caps on the ecu are good. I'm also using a 2g Maf. Wiring brings up a good point though...car wouldn't spark the first attempt at starting flipped a couple plugs near the battery that can go into two different plugs and it started..First engine rebuild, removal/install...didn't mark anything like a newb. I'm also terrible with diagrams in my haynes manual. Whenever we first got it to start the plugs in cylinders 4&1 didn't look like they were sparking. Thats when I replaced the plugs. I didn't take them back out to double check because the car was hot from driving. Thats why I checked the power transistor and the coil. I think my next step that I'm planning on doing is getting another coil pack because the numbers checked but I don't know if how warm it was would have affected my results. It was a little warm when I tested it. So thats what I'm trying I just wanted to know what you guys think. I always check here before I do anything .

 

[jbouvier]

Alright guys problem fixed. It was a bad coil pack. I guess I didn't have it hot enough when I tested. Thanks for all the input. A little tuning now and I'm good to go.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

Alright guys problem fixed. It was a bad coil pack. I guess I didn't have it hot enough when I tested. Thanks for all the input. A little tuning now and I'm good to go.

Bad coil pack huh? Guess I better go grab the multi-meter....

 

[jbouvier]

Yes sir it was. Had to heat it up pretty good to get the bad well I guess good news. Picked up a new one for $90 at the local autozone put her on and fired it up. Fixed everything. Actually had the timing so advanced from the night before it didn't want to stay running. Running like a champ now no smoke or anything. Don't really understand that part but I'm not complaining. Check engine light is still on though and my palm for my datalogger bit the dust so I'm going to take it to a shop tomorrow. Now I'm just going to have to control myself and that thing I call foot that presses the gas pedal until the break in period is up...not so sure how thats going to turn out...