Problem with motor build

[Vtec Killer]

The build is a 4g63t build engine eagle rods, ross pistons, balance shafts removed, large port job on the head ect.......Anyway tonight I finally try to start the engine and the following happend:
Primed the engine and on the second try it fired right up but after it ran for about 5 seconds a friend of mine yelled shut it off shut it off.......it was leaking tons of oil out what im guessing is the rear seal. Anyone ever heard of this happening? I torqued the rear seal housing to spec's and then this happens. So tonight I dropped the exaust, tcase, driveshaft and tomorrow im dropping the tranny to inspect the problem. If anyone has any thoughts or ideas let me know...............(hopefully I put this in the right forum)

 

[TSIfreek]

Did you install the oil slinger after you put the new seal in? Make sure the spring inside the seal doesnt pop out when installing it over the crank. You did use a gasket between the block and housing right??

 

[Vtec Killer]

well got it all removed and inspected the rear seal everything seems normal there was some oil on the gasket. So it may have not been tight enough im guessing? So im gonna replace the seal and use some silcone on the gasket for the housing IDK what else it could be

 

[TSIfreek]

I just got to thinking that there is a main oil gallory plug on the rear of the engine. If you didnt install this you willl have oil everywere and will need a new clutch if it wasnt installed.
If you want before you install the flywheel and trans hook up all your oil lines and turn the oil pump with an electric drill and see if you still have a leak anywere before installing the trans. You will need to remove the timing belt to do so though. Also use a small amount of silicone on the corners of the seal housing. Dont use that much silicone!!! If your going to use some just use enough so the new gasket sticks to it. Also make sure the rear seal is installed all the way in the housing.

 

[TSIfreek]

forgot to add those bolts are very small so watch the torque you put on them use a 1/4" drive rachet and a 10mm socket. once they bottom out another 1/4 turn is all that is needed.

 

[Vtec Killer]

thx for the info im gonna take some pics of the rear of the block there was a spot where i was thinking a plug should go. Most of the oil was only on the flywheel the clutch disc did have some but i cleaned it with some brake clean. It seemed to dry perectly but i will defently inspect it before i reinstall it. The whole situation was just strange the plug makes me think that could be the cause more than the seal issue. Because this oil was pouring out and the seal shouldnt have that much pressure on inital start up. But who knows.........

 

[Vtec Killer]

PIC

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

im thinking there should be a plug just to the right of the freeze plug what do u think? if i need a plug do u know the size and thread pitch thx again

 

[TSIfreek]

Yep thats your main oil gallory to feed the mains etc. The guy that machined your block took it out when he cleaned the block after he machined it to get any debris left in there from machining. Sorry I dont know the sizes you need. I would also take a main cap off to see if you have any damage from having no oil preesure from when you had it running. Not a good thing.

 

[Vtec Killer]

ok well thx again for the info thats what i was afraid of but im not totally over concerned because it was a very short time like 5 seconds or less that it was running. I will pull off a main cap and inspect. I did use alot of moly assembly lube on the bearings(which are king racing bearing's btw that are a softer 2 layer vs. the typical 3 layer that a clevite or a trw ect. use). So i'll cross my fingers.

 

[Suparata]

PIC

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

im thinking there should be a plug just to the right of the freeze plug what do u think? if i need a plug do u know the size and thread pitch thx again

MD040338 3/8 BSP.

 

[Vtec Killer]

thx for the reply's guys got the plug from the dealer for free( its good to have a friend there thats the top mech in the shop ) and after i got my new clutch since the other one got an oil bath i asked the guys at dsmotorsports what size the plug was. 16mmx1.5 so its all good now hopefully tomorrow ill try starting it again.

 

[bigjdog84]

Looks like your heading in the right direction. I wouldn't bother pulling the mains, 5 seconds worth of runtime is nothing, thats why the lube is there
Later/joe

 

[markgholland]

You put assembly lube ON the bearings when installing them or just on the rod studs?

~mark

 

[bigjdog84]

Its pretty much a standard to coat the bearing surfaces that come in contact with the journals on the crank with bearing assembly lube. That will prevent any premature wear on the bearings during initial startup. The assembly lube used on the threads of rod bolts is usually straight up moly lube or 30wt. motor oil (whatever the man. reccomends).

 

[jltcat]

at least the guy that did your block took the plug out. Some people just try to flush the block out without removing the plug which doesn't do a very good job of cleaning the MOG. So other than it being a PIA to fix its a nice thing to see. You may want to check your bearings seeing how the engine ran for 5 seconds the motor turned over about 50-80 times just to be on the safe side. Wouldnt want to do all the work of putting it back together only to have it fail prematurely.

 

[Vtec Killer]

well it's all put back together now exept for the IC pipes and some small connections for the tranny. The car should be started some time today or tomorrow . There was resdue from the moly assembly lube in the pan and there was oil comming out of the drain tube from the turbo. I have a couple of friends that I picked there brain about if I should remove a main cap and inspect one is a machinist he said no and the other is a mech for mitsu and he said the same so needless to say I didnt. thx for the added opinions guys I'll give u all an update when it fires up.