Pressed Clutch Pedal = Engine Kill

[2GAWD4U2NV]

I have been driving my fresh build for 8 days nows. I have been slowly working out all the kinks. I have gotten the car so where it will finally idle correctly. Well, today on the way to school, I was at a stop sign and pressed the clutch to shift into first. The car then died. From then on until I got it back to the house today, anytime the clutch was pressed the engine would just die. If left in neutral, or once I get going, the car runs perfectly fine.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[PIMking]

The only time I have heard of this is a faulty ISC or the dreaded and over used Crankwalk. But since your motor is only a week old I doubt its crankwalk and I would doubt it if the motor was tired. whats your vacume during idle?

 

[2GAWD4U2NV]

The only time I have heard of this is a faulty ISC or the dreaded and over used Crankwalk. But since your motor is only a week old I doubt its crankwalk and I would doubt it if the motor was tired. whats your vacume during idle?

DSMLink says VAC/BST Estimation is -20 to -23 at idle; however, my boost gauge reads -10 to -15.

I just found out that when I shift, if I'm braking, I can tap the gas the slightest bit when RPM's reach 1,000 and the car will continue to idle, but if I don't tap throttle, then the engine will still cut off.

I hope this helps.

 

[PIMking]

Try a BLT, then if that yeilds nothing try to get some carb cleaner and spray around the intake and throttle body if the Idle goes up then you have yourself a leak. Find it. I bet you got some vacume leak.

 

[cano86]

Could there be a chance of being the brake booster. I've heard they have that symptom when they are going bad

 

[2GAWD4U2NV]

Try a BLT, then if that yeilds nothing try to get some carb cleaner and spray around the intake and throttle body if the Idle goes up then you have yourself a leak. Find it. I bet you got some vacume leak.

I ran a BLT and eliminated the leaks.


My dad actually said something about checking the vacuum lines running to the brake booster. If those lines are still good and holding correctly, then I should try replacing the brake booster and then go from there?

 

[2GAWD4U2NV]

Could there be a chance of being the brake booster. I've heard they have that symptom when they are going bad

I just checked all vac lines running to the reservoir and around it. No leaks. So if it is the brake booster, then it is the whole component?

 

[Artago]

I had the same problem, never figured it out. Check your crank just to be safe, mine went for a walk.

 

[darkiller_666]

Just my .02 cents but my car died with clutch engagement right before my ACT TOB took a dump and decided to shatter.

 

[2GAWD4U2NV]

I had the same problem, never figured it out. Check your crank just to be safe, mine went for a walk.

Surely not with less than 400 miles on fresh build...?

I also took preventative measures:
Stronger mains
Freshened crank
MBCAD kit <specifically for crankwalk>

 

[byebyev8]

exactly a bad TOB will kill the car when the clutch is pressed in even if the cars in neutral. I just had to deal with this issue.

 

[2GAWD4U2NV]

Just my .02 cents but my car died with clutch engagement right before my ACT TOB took a dump and decided to shatter.

Man... just got my tranny in from a replacement of my Front Diff. Ass. and the Cent. Diff.
The TOB I used, convinced by my brother and Dad, was an ACT TOB, and it had less than 1k miles use. I know that for a fact as it was my brother's before he hydralocked one of his cylinders and put a rod through the pan.

Hmmm... I'm about to put my 2G TB back on until I get car kinks all worked out. Maybe the 1G FIAV or ISC was bad on it. I know for sure my 2G is fine.


Thanks for the help guys!

 

[2GAWD4U2NV]

exactly a bad TOB will kill the car when the clutch is pressed in even if the cars in neutral. I just had to deal with this issue.

Any pressing of the clutch at a dead stop just makes the car idle low. If I free-rev the engine above 2k, it won't catch but just die. However, if the car is just in neutral without pressing of the clutch it will idle like a dream.

Still, the car drives around perfectly fine.

 

[Artago]

Surely not with less than 400 miles on fresh build...?

I also took preventative measures:
Stronger mains
Freshened crank
MBCAD kit <specifically for crankwalk>

Actually it was about 1500 miles. Fresh build with ACT clutch, flywheel, and TOB.

exactly a bad TOB will kill the car when the clutch is pressed in even if the cars in neutral. I just had to deal with this issue.

Are ACT TOB's know to be bad? Should I be worried?

Tom

 

[RadDsm]

Could it be your TPS is off?

 

[myturbo]

Actually it was about 1500 miles. Fresh build with ACT clutch, flywheel, and TOB.



Are ACT TOB's know to be bad? Should I be worried?

Tom

yes get a oem . i have had 3 act tob blow apart .and know of thousands of others . but never a problem with a OEM TOB .

i vote it is your "tob"

 

[2GAWD4U2NV]

Could it be your TPS is off?

Hmm, I believe it is right; I may be wrong, though. WOT reads 97% and idle is like 2-3%?

I'm making another TB adjustment soon. I'll post up how that goes.

 

[gstryyder]

whoever told you to use an act tob... dont listen to them when they tell ya what to do 4 ## car any more. OEM.. it is like the golden rule to not having shyt get funked up... especially when it comes to your tob.

i say your tob is bad. have fun dong that all over again. some of us have to learn the hard way...

 

[2GAWD4U2NV]

I messed around with the TB and my A/F ratio finally acts right. Car now idles perfectly, more so at operating temp.

New symptom: Could it be a bad clutch selenoid?

 

[2GAWD4U2NV]

GREAT... I was in town today and just driving around and the car shut off, I think that its cause of the clutch pedal not fully disengaging.

At first the car would not crank at all. Well, finally I manned up on the clutch and it would crank, but even if I let out on the clutch really fast and gave it some throttle, the car would not idle for more than 3 or so seconds.

The RPMs would be from 1k-2k and would bounce around so sporadically that it looked like it was warping around. I tried adjusting the clutch pedal at the spot that I had it but I didn't have the right tools.

Maybe if I can get it adjusted in a way that it starts acting right again, or atleast enough to get it 7 miles back to the house.

Is it possible to remove the clutch solenoid plug that's right by the pedal assembly? Maybe it's sending false signal to ECU saying that clutch isn't fully disengaged/engaged?

 

[Artago]

Have you checked the crank yet?

 

[2GAWD4U2NV]

Have you checked the crank yet?

Can I go about that without disassembling the motor?

 

[kottyking]

ALWAYS use an OEM TOB.

 

[Artago]

Can I go about that without disassembling the motor?

Yes, there's a write up on the forums here somewhere on how to do it. Try searching for it. I'd do it for you but I'm at work.

Tom

 

[PIMking]

CW is the last thing this guy has!

One its overrated and can happen to any vehicle!

Two he has a new motor.

I just did my clutch on my car with an ACT that lasted for 1k miles when the TOB came out in 3 peices.

I dont belive its the cw issue. I doubt it. You might just have to drop the trans agian anyways because something along the clutch isn't working right. get your dad some beer and have a couple of buddies over and make a day of it.

but before hand go to a mitsu dealer aka satan (chrysler dealer will work) and get a OEM TOB anyways.

while the trans is off inspect the fingers on the PP and see if any are loose or missing. (yes it has happend).