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Clutch pedal pressed in car sputters/stalls

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12secgsx

Probationary Member
15
0
Jan 28, 2005
midlothian, Texas
I have a 95 gsx and when i push the clutch pedal in the car will begin to sputter a bit then die. If i start it back up and try to give it some throttle to idle it up while the clutch is pressed, it will begin to backfire and pop and the tach needle will begin to jump and my aftermarket boost gauge will stop working completely. Then as soon as i stop giving it gas the car will die again. Please help!! im gettin freakin frustrated im awaiting my logging cable so i can log whats going on. Any suggesstions please lmk.




Thanks Matt
 
Yes I saw that on there and did the test and the ohms tested out okay.

I went ahead and retested the resistance between the connectors so that i could provide the results. I got 31.2-31.5 on all of them.
 
I would test the TPS, look for smooth voltage(best way) or resistance across the entire sweep of the throttle position. Make sure your connections while doing this test are solid - once that is verified, if you see a drop or substantial dip in voltage/resistance the TPS is bad due to what is known as a "dead spot".

Make sure your vehicle modification list is accurate and up to date.
Does this only while driving? Idle too? Warm? Cold? Recent mods?
 
The only mods are 20g, 255 pump, intake, 3'' Turboback, and crower valve-springs. But the car will idle fine and rev fine as long as i dont push the clutch in as soon as i do, it will die unless i give it gas then it will do as stated in previous post.
 
That's a bit incomplete mod list to tell you the truth.
What injectors do you have?
What are you using to tune with?
Do you have an AFPR?
 
You'll need bigger injectors to support the 20G. 450s will barely get you into the max potential of the stock turbo.
The biggest the SAFC can support is 680cc injectors, which is still a tad too small for a 20G maximum potential. You can however get an eprom chip to help compensate for larger injectors & use the SAFC to fine tune.

The walbro 255 is causing you to run very rich without an AFPR. I'd get one ASAP.

Make sure you have no boost leaks, make sure your BOV is recirculated.

A good idea is to read up on what your doing before you start modifying, this will save you time and money in the long run.
 
Best advice I can tell you is maintenance before modification. Keeping sh_t stock makes it easier to diag.
For example plugs and plug wires - these will cause you to sputter if they are incorrect/ in bad shape. Run standard NGK coppers at .028"
Check base timing.
BLT like previously stated.
It won't run perfect running so rich.
A compression test wouldn't be a bad idea, who's to say this guy didn't beat the piss out of it before selling it.

You never know what some jag put in there/did considering he put a 20G on with stock injectors.
 
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