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Power Window and Power Door Lock Installation [Merged 3-7]

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thanks i was confused because on vfaq.com said that the five prong was the relay but wrong spot. im just goin to switch the alarm horn with with the power windows. my windows stay on an they are not bypassed the relay so its either shorting out somewhere or the relay is shot.
 
yeah i figured u had it written down or checked them. well i took out the power relay and switched it with th horn relay and when i plugged it in it instantly clicked onand my windows are still on!!! they dont work with the relay in so i have a short or something somewhere. all the wiring looks good under the dash untouched but i think its shortingsomewhere. does anyone know where it could be shorting. if i dontfind it im goin to just hook a toggle switch to the relay and just turn it on when i drive. whats the the acc, power, ect on the four prong relays? thanks
 
exzercist said:
well i took out the power relay and switched it with th horn relay and when i plugged it in it instantly clicked onand my windows are still on!!! they dont work with the relay in so i have a short or something somewhere.
I'm confused with your problem description as to what exactly the problem is. Is it (case 1) the windows never go up/down, or (case 2) they are constantly going up/down, or (case 3) they have power all the time when they shouldn't (so the up/down switches work even with the key off)?

With the relay in you say it instantly clicked on and your windows are still on. But then you say they don't work with the relay in??? Which is it and what do you mean by the windows are on? And is the key on or off with any of this?

If the relay is on all the time (with key off - ie. case 3), then you either have a short to ground in the relay's blue/yellow wire or more likely the ETACS-ECU is shot (which is very expensive) which controls the relay. The relay is normally supposed to come on whenever the key is on. It only provides power to the up/down switches - it does not directly make the windows go up/down (the switches do that). Personally I like to be able to control the windows without the key being on (or even in) so I have my relay removed and the socket jumpered so power is always present at the switches (it still is protected by the 30A fusible link).

If the windows never go up/down but relay is providing power, check for faulty main power window switches (in the driver's door), or bad motor, or bad circuit breaker in the motor. You can unplug the motor and apply 12V to it (both polarities) to see if it works.
 
its case 3 the windows are always on even with the key out . so i just hooked a switch up replacing the ECU ground. my prob was i only drive my car once a week maybe and when i start my car it would be dead so i think the power windows were killing my battery always being on did you have that problem. in the beginning of summer i would drive the car everyday and the battery was fine, but as soon as i let it sit there for a week or two it would be dead.




luv2rallye said:
I'm confused with your problem description as to what exactly the problem is. Is it (case 1) the windows never go up/down, or (case 2) they are constantly going up/down, or (case 3) they have power all the time when they shouldn't (so the up/down switches work even with the key off)?

With the relay in you say it instantly clicked on and your windows are still on. But then you say they don't work with the relay in??? Which is it and what do you mean by the windows are on? And is the key on or off with any of this?

If the relay is on all the time (with key off - ie. case 3), then you either have a short to ground in the relay's blue/yellow wire or more likely the ETACS-ECU is shot (which is very expensive) which controls the relay. The relay is normally supposed to come on whenever the key is on. It only provides power to the up/down switches - it does not directly make the windows go up/down (the switches do that). Personally I like to be able to control the windows without the key being on (or even in) so I have my relay removed and the socket jumpered so power is always present at the switches (it still is protected by the 30A fusible link).

If the windows never go up/down but relay is providing power, check for faulty main power window switches (in the driver's door), or bad motor, or bad circuit breaker in the motor. You can unplug the motor and apply 12V to it (both polarities) to see if it works.
 
Anyone have this diagram, or can anyone just draw something up. Trying to find out witch wire is the power wire. Took the car to the shop and they put the window up by feeding it power but they didnt fix the problem. I'm guessing the power wire is broken but not sure which one it is. Thx for the help, and i did search.
 
Red/white (from 30A fuse) going into power window relay, blue/black coming out going to the power window main switch (driver's door). The window motors have a green/red and a green/black wire. Can unplug them and put +12V on green/red and ground on green/black to go up. Reverse to go down.
 
I did it in my 1g, really wasnt that hard. I assume its the same in a 2g. I swapped the power windows/locks from my ghetto beat up Talon to my Laser. The talon also had better tint so what I did was pull the windows out, remove the actuater and the motor attached to it. Then I removed the lock mechanism, (3 star shaped bolts on outside of door in door jam) the hard part is removing the metal rods that connect everything together without breaking the clips. You will need to have the doors open as far as they will go and after disconnecting the connectors to the locking mechanism/window motor/mirrors/etc you will need to remove the gromet that goes from inside the door to under the dash and then you will have to feed the harness and the 2 connectors (they both plug in under the dash, one should have some foam wrapped around it) through the hole behind dash and through the hole in door and then you have the harness out. You will then have to mount the window actuater and motor in the other door and bolt everything in place. Put the harness inside the door and connect everything and then run the end with the 2 connectors through that hole in the door and the one under the dash and plug them in. You will need to plug the relay in, plug in the window switch and you should have one door done. The manual to power windows is easier than the manual to power locks. Im not very good at explaining things but if you need some help feel free to PM me. I still haven't done my passenger side as the talon is about 6'' from the wall on the passenger side so I'll have to wait until I can move it in the driveway to do it, but I'll try to get the camera out there and maybe make a lil VFAQ.
 
I know this should probably be in the interior/exterior/appearance section but i wasn't getting any answers there so I moved it here, sorry :(

Ok guys, I searched this a bit but I'm having a hard time getting all the info I need so here goes.

I want to convert my 97 Talon ESi with powerless everything to Power Windows, Locks, and Trunk Release

Originally I intended to go aftermarket and have it installed by a professional for around $700 for the sake of convenience.

The other thing I was thinking was that I would Get the OEM Power Door panels (for the switches), window motors, lock actuators, trunk release actuator and window relays from somebody parting out a powered model. Also, I think there's a harness that goes behind the center console/radio that powers all of that but I'm not sure yet.

So my question is....

Can anybody provide me with a list of ALL the parts I will need to get from the donor vehicle, and their locations on the car if it isn't obvious (i'll check my Chilton and Haynes manuals too) AND has anybody actually completed this project on the 2GNT cars before and if so I would appreciate their input


Thanks guys
 
I am personally tired of dealing with manual windows and locks and want the convenience of power ones. I was thinking of converting them but didn't know what exactly i should do. I have read some of the other threads of putting in electric lock and things from after market places. I was wondering if it would be easier to go down to the salvage yard and pick up some doors that have all the components in them and just installing whole new doors. Can it be done? If so what exactly do I need and what would I need to do? Has any one else done this before?
 
You would also need the harness and keyless module as well. Seems to me like a tedious task. If you decide to go aftermarket with the power windows and power locks check out SPALUSA.com I use this product at work and it is of decent quality and reliable.
 
I'm going to be converting my manual windows to power in couple weeks and just want to make sure I'm not missing anything I need (or have anything I don't need). I'm going to be using the OEM power door panels and switches in combination with a SPAL window kit.

-Power door panels
-Switches
-Window kit
-Wiring harnesses
-Power window relay

I'm assuming with my setup I'll have to splice into the wiring harness, and the windows won't work without the relay.

Is that it for parts? Seems like there would be more than that.
 
I'm going to be converting my manual windows to power in couple weeks and just want to make sure I'm not missing anything I need (or have anything I don't need). I'm going to be using the OEM power door panels and switches in combination with a SPAL window kit.

-Power door panels
-Switches
-Window kit
-Wiring harnesses
-Power window relay

I'm assuming with my setup I'll have to splice into the wiring harness, and the windows won't work without the relay.

Is that it for parts? Seems like there would be more than that.

you shouldn't have to splice into the wiring harness. if you get a wiring harness from a dsm with power windows you should be able to directly swap the wiring harness over. i swapped manual to power windows in a chevrolet truck i've got. it should be basically the same. the harness will run from the passenger side over to the drivers side. it will plug into the switches inside the door on both sides and it will split right at the drivers side fuse box. if you do have to splice anything it will be right here. all you'll have to do is get power, and on most power window setups there is a spot in the fuse box for the factory wiring to plug in. if you have a harness out of a dsm you should be able to just plug everything in. it's usually not too bad a job. you'll also have to have the main fuses that will plug into the spot in the fuse box for power windows.
 
That makes sense. I'm trying to get my head around the wiring without having my window kit here yet, and it doesn't seem like there's a clear consensus on exactly what works and is needed.

I think I'll do a write-up on this after I'm done.
 
Hey all;
I'm going to be doing a power window conversion on my 95 Talon using everything from a power window Eclipse. Now I think I have everything but have a couple questions....

1) I searched and seen something about a relay. Where is this relay located at and what's the purpose of it? If I don't have it (which I don't think so) does AutoZone sell it?

2) Does anyone have a good manual or diagram of how everything all fits together? Like the window tracks and all.

3) And lastly, the wires for the each door were cut off at basically the door hinge. So I have a bunch of wires and not sure what goes to what yet. I'll be honest, I haven't really looked at them too much, but looking for a wiring diagram or to where each wire goes.

If anyone can help me out of these it'd be great. I plan on doing this Sunday (if everything works out good) so wish me luck!
 
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