Resolved Power Steering Lines on Pinion Removal

[kyler021]

Hey all,

I need some advice on removing these lines for the power steering on a 2g turbo car:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I'm doing a "manual" rack conversion (hopefully) so I can get rid of the fluid and lines running throughout the engine bay. I can't seem to find a way to get these lines off though. There's no room from the front drivers side, it's too far away for my short arms from the passenger side and I can't seem to see them from under the car. I've looked up videos, and searched on DSMTuners but can't seem to find a good guide. They all skip this part, have a 420a which has way more room or just say: "remove the pressure and return hard lines." I was trying to do this before I remove my subframe but it seems I may just have to remove the subframe with the rack. Apologies if this has already been answered. Any tips guys? Thanks for the help!

Kyle

 

[jesse12345]

I thought the turbo ones had pretty good room. I've had to take mine off multiple times from leaks but I guess my arms are alot longer. I just slid my arm down from the drivers side with a wrench and cracked them loose, I don't think I've ever done it any other way. Maybe someone has another way but that's just how I do it.

 

[kyler021]

I thought the turbo ones had pretty good room. I've had to take mine off multiple times from leaks but I guess my arms are alot longer. I just slid my arm down from the drivers side with a wrench and cracked them loose, I don't think I've ever done it any other way. Maybe someone has another way but that's just how I do it.

Hmm... maybe I'm not trying hard enough. When I tried a bunch of AC stuff was in the way. I got the wrench on it but couldn't turn it whatsoever because of all the lines. Did you unbolt the brake reservoir/hardware or anything on the firewall? I unbolted the reservoir but couldn't move it out of the way like the Haynes manual says to do.

 

[jesse12345]

I unbolted nothing but I do not have anything ac related so that might be why. I've never had ac in any of my cars so that's my fault you might have to get underneath if things are to tight. Hopefully someone with ac can shed some light on how they did it.

 

[DogWhistle]

The couplings should be sprayed with a penetrating lube and allowed to soak at least over night.

When you do figure out how to get clearance for a wrench, make sure you are using brake line wrenches (box wrench with a slit in it to go over the line) that grip on all sides of the nut.

Depending on the size, you may be able to adapt an O2 socket (same slit design) and connect it to an impact driver to shake it loose.

 

[kyler021]

Or here's an idea, would I be able to cut the lines? I figured I could grab a piping cutter from harbor freight tomorrow and see if that works. I'm not planning on reusing the hard lines. I could probably sell the reservoir and the soft lines since they weren't leaking.

 

[DSMPT]

As mentioned by @DogWhistle , put a lot of WD40 or PB blaster, leave it for over night and use a flare nut wrench (Once I could remove mine just with an open wrench). If it's still stuck, cut it short and use a socket if you don't reuse the line, I have done this too. I recommend to remove the intake manifold anyways though, that would make the situation much easier.

If the reason why you are considering to go with manual rack is leaky lines and reservoir, replacing only the leaky parts or go with an electric pump can't be an option for you? I think it would be much easier than removing the rack.

 

[kyler021]

If it's still stuck, cut it short and use a socket if you don't reuse the line, I have done this too.

It's not really stuck per say, it's just that pretty much EVERYTHING is in the way . I haven't even been able to assess if it's stuck or not, i have gotten a wrench onto one line, but have no where to turn it because it ends up hitting a bunch of stuff.

If the reason why you are considering to go with manual rack is leaky lines and reservoir, replacing only the leaky parts or go with an electric pump can't be an option for you? I think it would be much easier than removing the rack.

I've thought about the Volvo and Prius steering before, but I feel as though I can handle the manual rack conversion. I can't really handle all the wiring and welding the EPS conversion takes. Then I'd have to get a higher amp alternator, wires etc. I want this car to be as simple as possible, with less things to go wrong and more room in the engine bay. IDK, I'm taking the unconventional way it seems!

 

[dwb]

Keep in mind, if you convert a hydraulic rack to manual, your steering will be much more stiff than a true manual rack. Especially if you just cut the lines.
Here's a guide that may help: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-depower-steering-rack-manual-rack-conversion.529792/

 

[kyler021]

Keep in mind, if you convert a hydraulic rack to manual, your steering will be much more stiff than a true manual rack. Especially if you just cut the lines.
Here's a guide that may help: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-depower-steering-rack-manual-rack-conversion.529792/

That's the guide I had planned on using, I just won't be welding the rack like in the guide. I am expecting some slop from there, but I'm on a budget right now haha

 

[kyler021]

So my solution here, is to cut the lines short enough to fit a deep socket over the cut line and the fitting, and then you'll be able to get the rack out through the hole in the subframe. I cut them using some sort of garden snips. Don't do this if you plan to keep power steering, for obvious reasons.

 

[pauleyman]

Its been awhile since ive undone lines but I think i used crows foot flare wrenches. Shockingly yes you can get metric crows feet for lines. I got a cheap set too.