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It dont look to bad to me the pics are not close enough to tell how the powder is so you can't really say anything about that! Just needs to work on the masking better. But then again every part that shows a bad masking job will be covered by something so each to his own I guess.

The biggest reason you pre heat the part is not to dry the brake clean you do that with your air gun. You pre head the part to prevent "Faraday cage effect". Its where the powder wont stick because of a magnetic shield forms. Every PC guy I have talked to always preheats their parts no matter what.:thumb:

Its just like painting guys! You want it to look good clean it, then clean it some more, and then some more then you can spray.
 
What a sweet job, how does one shave the letters or powder coat the leeters a different color? I'm thinking about buying a set and trying to do this myself. :D
 
Whoops, thanks for catching that. I had my sentences out of order. The whole proof reading every post thing still hasn't hit me yet.

ROFL Its cool

What a sweet job, how does one shave the letters or powder coat the leeters a different color? I'm thinking about buying a set and trying to do this myself. :D

Sand down the letter with which ever tool you prefer. And the letters you just mask.
 
It dont look to bad to me the pics are not close enough to tell how the powder is so you can't really say anything about that! Just needs to work on the masking better. But then again every part that shows a bad masking job will be covered by something so each to his own I guess.

The biggest reason you pre heat the part is not to dry the brake clean you do that with your air gun. You pre head the part to prevent "Faraday cage effect". Its where the powder wont stick because of a magnetic shield forms. Every PC guy I have talked to always preheats their parts no matter what.:thumb:

Its just like painting guys! You want it to look good clean it, then clean it some more, and then some more then you can spray.

I have never preheated the parts befor painting? And my parts come out great? Im sure its not a bad idea, I went through alot of trial and error to get my valve cover to look the way it did. Theres just something about aluminum metal that does not want to accept powder paint the first time around..


Anyone ever get those little bubbles out of aluminum parts after painting?? Why is that
 
I have never preheated the parts befor painting? And my parts come out great? Im sure its not a bad idea, I went through alot of trial and error to get my valve cover to look the way it did. Theres just something about aluminum metal that does not want to accept powder paint the first time around..


Anyone ever get those little bubbles out of aluminum parts after painting?? Why is that

I would say just try and preheat the part just once and you will see. All it takes is 5 mins you will be amazed. Almost all of my parts I have done are alum. I never had any problems with the powder not sticking. If you are having problems with your powder not sticking maybe you need to get a better ground or once again preheat. Trust me Iam not just pulling this stuff out of my A$$! I gave a link to a fourm on the frist page and 80% of them guys over there do this stuff for a living and are kind of enough to give out tips that took some time to learn.

As far as the bubbles you get can you make them collapse? If so then thats caused by out gassing of the part from what else not clean enough. If its a solid bubble well thats cake its dirt again becasue the part is not clean enough.
 
To all that offered helpful advice thanks, a friend and I were talking about this today and I am for sure picking up a kit from HB.
 
Can you tell what's pc'd and what's not on my engine? :D It's what I do for a living, everything from intakes to oil pans.

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Also watch the pc on anything that sees coolant, eventually the antifreeze turns the pc into a slimey goop so make sure you tape everything off in that area very well.

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I have never preheated the parts befor painting? And my parts come out great? Im sure its not a bad idea, I went through alot of trial and error to get my valve cover to look the way it did. Theres just something about aluminum metal that does not want to accept powder paint the first time around..


Anyone ever get those little bubbles out of aluminum parts after painting?? Why is that

The reason is because you are not pre baking the parts. Not only does it outgas them. It burns off any stuff you may have missed during cleaning or from even touching the part. If the part is cast then there is even more reason to pre bake it. When they pour the molten metal in the mold it traps gasses in the pores of the metal as it cools. It is much more likely to outgas and bubble your coating if you don't.

I had a set of OEM cam gears I did for a guy that literally had tiny oil fountains shooting out of the pores of the metal when I heated them up. This was after degreasing and media blasting them. I had to pre bake them for and hour. It was crazy.

Here are a few of the thing I've done.
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Dont just try it start doing it everytime! I suggest when you do your intake before you put them in the oven get you one of those LED flashlights and shine it on the part to make sure you got even coverage everywhere.:thumb:
 
Excellent advice! I learned this one real fast after I made my first messed part came out of the oven. It is much easier to take care of the problem before you stick the piece in the oven :)
 
For those who are sand blasting, what are you using for a water separator?
 
I have two inline and then I also have a filter on the bottom of my PC gun!
 
^ Talked to someone over at JNZ about this a few days ago and they recommended the same one. :)
 
Heres my engine bay. Hope you like. I pc'ed everything and did a full wire tuck as well.

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