Possible Clutch Fork Problem.

[GofaST4life]

Hey guys I need some insight on my newly acquired GSX.

During the last few days, ive had the clutch pedal "literally" just fall to the floor when I place my foot on it with barely any pressure.

Once I pick it back up I can pump it a bit and I have full pedal.

This usually only happens once or MAYBE twice during a driving session.

For example in the morning going to work, itll happen. And then leaving work it'll happen. Each time maybe once OR twice, maybe.

My clutch grabs very quickly off the floor, and I have only minor-ly gave the car a small launch once.


NOW: I have ZERO leaks at the master, reservoir and slave. I have bled the system over and over again with a specific clutch vacuum pump. The problem still persists.

My only other thought could be a worn out pivot or a slightly bent clutch fork?

 

[spyderdrifter]

I say bleed the system again, but not by vaccuum. Do it the old fashion way. It is very unlikely that you have a bent fork. Other parts will give out before the fork has the chance to do so itself.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Its possible but with that you should pull the trans and inspect everything if in doubt, cant say for but i sure but i would inspect everything.

 

[1995silvergst]

Sounds like a bad booster, the slave has an accumulator just before it in the line. They are know for holding air and making it difficult to properly bleed, I would say if you have bled the system and didn't let the reservoir run dry then it is ###### your master booster that is basically a diaphragm that can wear out.

 

[1995silvergst]

Probably your master

 

[1995silvergst]

By the way they make a speed bleeder for these cars that makes bleeding the slave much easier and you should always have the bleed tube submerged in fluid when you are bleeding the slave fyi

 

[GofaST4life]

I say bleed the system again, but not by vaccuum. Do it the old fashion way. It is very unlikely that you have a bent fork. Other parts will give out before the fork has the chance to do so itself.

Explain the old fashion way.
(I probably know what your talking about but I want to hear your way)

 

[GofaST4life]

Its possible but with that you should pull the trans and inspect everything if in doubt, cant say for but i sure but i would inspect everything.

Ideally that would be the game plan. But ATM I do not have the time/money to drop the tranny.

 

[GofaST4life]

By the way they make a speed bleeder for these cars that makes bleeding the slave much easier and you should always have the bleed tube submerged in fluid when you are bleeding the slave fyi

I had my shop bleed it for me. I trust my mechanic Jim very much. I doubt the system was bled wrong.


BUT to be honest, the way the clutch just drops , I really feel like its a system issue.

 

[Hal]

Search topic - "Crankwalk"

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Crankwhat?

 

[GofaST4life]

Search topic - "Crankwalk"

Seriously? Lol....good one.

 

[Hal]

Seriously? Lol....good one.

Go check the "symptoms"...

1.Fast ticking noise when you push in the clutch (it's also RPM sensitive)

2.After making a hard left turn, the clutch pedal loses hydraulic pressure and won't come back out unless you pull it back out with your foot.

3.Shifting is hard at random times.

Easy enough to check and eliminate, instead of just

 

[1995silvergst]

Sounds like a bad booster

Sorry said booster 3 times meant cyl master cyl

Search topic - "Crankwalk"

I hope not for his sake but good call.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Oh, crankwalk. I've heard of that, and it sounds like you contracted it OP. You should probably get that checked out before it becomes terminal.

 

[Hal]

If it's a bad master, the carpet beneath the master cylinder mounting area will have fluid under it.

Hal

 

[GofaST4life]

Go check the "symptoms"...

1.Fast ticking noise when you push in the clutch (it's also RPM sensitive)

2.After making a hard left turn, the clutch pedal loses hydraulic pressure and won't come back out unless you pull it back out with your foot.

3.Shifting is hard at random times.

Easy enough to check and eliminate, instead of just

Hal, Let me apologize. I assumed you where being sarcastic. But your post got me thinking, and the CW scare hit me. So I went outside and started my car, let her warm up a bit as I wanted to do this test.

Ill give you my run down for your 1, 2, 3 symptoms.

1. I did not notice any fast ticking or change in any ticking from the motor. The only ticking I could recognize was lifter tick, that soon died down after she had warmed up.

2. I went to a big parking lot close to me. It was completely empty, I put the car in second gear, locked the steering wheel left and did circles at maybe 2,250 rpm. I noticed no clutch issues. The RPMs didn't rise/fall. I pressed the clutch in a few times during this process and it returned as normal while still turning left.

3. This thread is evidence of shifting issues. Although In this last trip, I did NOT have my clutch problem. Which intrigues me.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

 

[GofaST4life]

If it's a bad master, the carpet beneath the master cylinder mounting area will have fluid under it.

Hal

I checked this first, completely dry.

 

[twicks69]

Did you fully disassemble the clutch master cylinder? It is also common for the inner piston seal to split causing issues of lack of pressure, ghost pedal, or pedal pump-up.

The master cylinder is composed of the master cylinder housing (piston bore), return spring, piston and nose that retains the spring, inner piston seal, outer piston seal, retaining wave spring, master cylinder rod, master cylinder dust boot, adjustment bracket attached to the threaded rod, retaining pin/circlip/plastic washer to attach to pedal assembly, fluid reservoir and connecting tube. If the outer piston seal is damaged, then you will see fluid loss at the dust boot. If the inner piston seal, or the cylinder bore are damaged it will have internal pressure bleedout causing the symptoms I stated above. If there is damage at the fluid reservoir or connecting tube/hose barbs, then you would see engine-bay leakage at the master cylinder.

 

[spyderdrifter]

By old fashion way I meant have someone operate the clutch while you open/close the bleeder valve. Vacuum bleeders are great, bit low quality ones may not be as reliable over time.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Same thing happen to me. Turn out to be the master cylinder. It was leaking internally.
First try the freebies like bleed and adjusting the master cylinder. After that you can start dumping money into it
I'm sure it's not the slave cylinder.
Check Ghost pedal.
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

 

[1995silvergst]

If not walk then check the lines for kinks, not kinks or air I would still say master cyl just my .02

 

[1995silvergst]

Same thing happen to me. Turn out to be the master cylinder. It was leaking internally.

Me as well and my car only had 86k miles!

 

[boost97gst]

Makes it a whooooole lot easier when you go straight from master to slave and ditch that "canister?" or whatever it is. Couple sites sell a braided line kit that eliminates that thing. Its still a bi!ch to bleed but not nearly as bad. I did mine the 'ol fashioned way in about 10 minutes.

 

[GofaST4life]

Did you fully disassemble the clutch master cylinder? It is also common for the inner piston seal to split causing issues of lack of pressure, ghost pedal, or pedal pump-up.

The master cylinder is composed of the master cylinder housing (piston bore), return spring, piston and nose that retains the spring, inner piston seal, outer piston seal, retaining wave spring, master cylinder rod, master cylinder dust boot, adjustment bracket attached to the threaded rod, retaining pin/circlip/plastic washer to attach to pedal assembly, fluid reservoir and connecting tube. If the outer piston seal is damaged, then you will see fluid loss at the dust boot. If the inner piston seal, or the cylinder bore are damaged it will have internal pressure bleedout causing the symptoms I stated above. If there is damage at the fluid reservoir or connecting tube/hose barbs, then you would see engine-bay leakage at the master cylinder.

I have not fully disassembled the clutch master. I'm not even sure how.

But that thought didn't cross my mind. When my mechanic and I were testing the clutch system components, we would test for pressure individually at the master and the slave. We had solid pressure every time.

This all sounds much better though. I was really hoping to not have to drop the tranny or the damn CW thing.