PLX m300 +ECMlink narrowband sim

[TJCTalon]

I know this is an old school wideband and all but its what came on the car.

Now I need to log this m300 with ecmlink ASAP as I need to get tuned and pass emissions before this temp tag runs out in a week or so.

Will the PLX suffice? Anyone having issues logging it with link?

Also does anyone know where to find the wiring diagrams? It came on the car when I bought it so I dont have anything.

Any tips on wiring this into the ecu?

 

[eclipsyco]

Not sure if it's 100% compatible with link... if it has analog output cables you have to tap them in the (for 2G) ECU pin 76 (or 73, 75, 85) ECMtuning-wiki.
What wiring diagrams are you asking for the ones need to install the wideband? Did you try the PLX website. Try this.

 

[AndrewD5418]

If it's got a 0-5v out can't you just wire that into v3 and it'll do both wideband, and narrowband simulation?

 

[dsmcurse]

M300 isnt "old school. Its a damn good device. To awnser you question, yes it can log in V3link, yes it will simulate narrowband. I know cause i currently have that setup

 

[TJCTalon]

Okay good so you can log it with link. Only threads about this wideband are from 04.

Dsmcurse did you wire in your gauge? What wire did you wire to the ecu

 

[snowborder714]

Here's the PDF user manual. You can see on page 4 which wire in the 4 pin cluster is the wideband signal. Just splice a wire off this and run to your chosen ECU input.
http://www.plxdevices.com/support/manuals/M-300TEUsersGuide.pdf

 

[Boostdriven]

I had my M300 wired in to my front o2 (I believe pin 76) and just used a narrow band simulator in the link to run my closed loop. I had my voltage cross point set at 2.49
With a proper tune it should have any problems keeping your air/fuel ratios around 14.7

 

[TJCTalon]

Cool I believe the grey wire is the wire that goes to the ECU can anyone confirm this?

 

[Boostdriven]

Cool I believe the grey wire is the wire that goes to the ECU can anyone confirm this?

I can't remember now for sure but I think grey wire is narrow band output and the white wire is the wide band output. If you're going to use ecmlink to simulate narrow band then you will have to use the white wire and wire that in to your ecu. There are several options where you can wire the wideband in to. I used my front o2 since I wasn't using my stock sensor anyways. You will have to set up the wideband inputs in the ecmlink to insure that it works properly. There is info on ecmlink site on how to do that. If you have issues getting it to work right, contact me directly and I'll walk you throught it.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

It will be important to get your switchover voltage calibrated to whatever your wideband is outputting at 14.7:1 AFR, because that setting will dictate your target cruise AFR.

 

[TJCTalon]

Are you sure I have to use the white wire?

Only have one spare wire and its the grey one. Everything else is wired in so I used the grey one.

I started loging it but Im having issues already so Im not sure what to do.

 

[Boostdriven]

If you have an older black M300 and not new M300TE then yes the white wire is 0-5v output, that's the one you want to wire in to your car. The grey one is narrow band output that could be wired in to your stock front o2 simulating it.

But there is a better way of doing it with Ecmlink. If the white wire is already wired in to your car that makes your job that much more complete, all you have to do now is track down which pin its wired in to. Best way would be is to rewire it in to your pin #76 which is your front o2.

Anyways let's say its wired in to your front o2 pin #76. Open your link and connect to the ecu. Go to live access and open ECU inputs tab. At the upper part of your screen you will see ( pin assignment for datalogging PC side) under connected sensor and front o2, click on the box and selection plx wideband. click save pin assignment. Now go to the lower part of the screen (pin assignment ecu side) under wideband (WB) left side, (used for narrowband sim) right side, select front o2.
Click on captured values button and in the left list column find front o2 and plx wideband and add them both to your captured value list then click ok.

No go to NBo2 sim tap and select the little box called enable narrowband simulations. Set your volt cross over point for your narrowband. I found that 2.47 worked good for me. Car idled right around 14.6-15.1
Below that under startup options, make everything 0s even the (delay for) time.

While still connected to the car's ecu start a log, You don't need to start your car yet. While the log is running, right click with your mouse anywhere on the screen, window will pop up, select displayed values. Again in the left list column find your plx wideband and add it to your displayed values. If your not logging your closed loop you should add that to your list as well. If its not in your displayed values list you will need to add it in your captured values list first. After you add everything in your displayed value list, click ok. You should see new items appear at the bottom of your screen. Fire up your car and see how it runs. Your narrowbamd simulator will not kick in until your car is in closed loop mode.

This way you can completely eliminate your stock front o2 and move your wideband sensor in its location unless it already somewhere close to it in a good location. Just leave your front o2 as a plug in the hole unless you want to clean things up and put an actual plug in it.

Let me know how that works for you.

 

[TJCTalon]

I already wired in the grey wire to pin 75 rear o2 sensor and started to log it with link. I got it logged but the AFR in link doesnt match what the gauge is reading.

Also the o2 voltage is steady and not cycling like it should be. Its stuck in closed loop.

I need to know if I need to change the wiring. I didnt see any other wires coming out of the harness besides the grey one so Im not sure what to do if I did it wrong.

Buddy told me I need to mess with the narrow sim tab in link to get the AFR matching.

Also when I bought the car it had the wideband IN the rear o2 location NOT being logged.

Im basically installing the wideband in the front location and hooking it up with link so I can get some tuning done. So nothing was wired into the ECU yet before today

 

[Boostdriven]

You need a wideband input signal for narrowband simulation. There has to be a white wire coming out if your wideband, that's the wire that you need to wire in to your front or rear o2, I like to use front o2 cause it makes things a little bit less confusing when your setting up your car with other sensors. You can always use the rear o2 input for something else, like exhaust pressure.

 

[TJCTalon]

Alrighty Ill take a closer look tomorrow. Thank you sir

 

[Boostdriven]

You're welcome, good luck.

 

[FP3065TSI]

If you have an older black M300 and not new M300TE then yes the white wire is 0-5v output, that's the one you want to wire in to your car. The grey one is narrow band output that could be wired in to your stock front o2 simulating it.

But there is a better way of doing it with Ecmlink. If the white wire is already wired in to your car that makes your job that much more complete, all you have to do now is track down which pin its wired in to. Best way would be is to rewire it in to your pin #76 which is your front o2.

Anyways let's say its wired in to your front o2 pin #76. Open your link and connect to the ecu. Go to live access and open ECU inputs tab. At the upper part of your screen you will see ( pin assignment for datalogging PC side) under connected sensor and front o2, click on the box and selection plx wideband. click save pin assignment. Now go to the lower part of the screen (pin assignment ecu side) under wideband (WB) left side, (used for narrowband sim) right side, select front o2.
Click on captured values button and in the left list column find front o2 and plx wideband and add them both to your captured value list then click ok.

No go to NBo2 sim tap and select the little box called enable narrowband simulations. Set your volt cross over point for your narrowband. I found that 2.47 worked good for me. Car idled right around 14.6-15.1
Below that under startup options, make everything 0s even the (delay for) time.

While still connected to the car's ecu start a log, You don't need to start your car yet. While the log is running, right click with your mouse anywhere on the screen, window will pop up, select displayed values. Again in the left list column find your plx wideband and add it to your displayed values. If your not logging your closed loop you should add that to your list as well. If its not in your displayed values list you will need to add it in your captured values list first. After you add everything in your displayed value list, click ok. You should see new items appear at the bottom of your screen. Fire up your car and see how it runs. Your narrowbamd simulator will not kick in until your car is in closed loop mode.

This way you can completely eliminate your stock front o2 and move your wideband sensor in its location unless it already somewhere close to it in a good location. Just leave your front o2 as a plug in the hole unless you want to clean things up and put an actual plug in it.

Let me know how that works for you.

Thanks for this! It has really helped me out...
Quick question where should I hook up 12+v (red wire) to have power.

 

[Boostdriven]

Thanks for this! It has really helped me out...
Quick question where should I hook up 12+v (red wire) to have power.

Use a test light and check which wire from the ignition switch gets power once you turn the key to ON position, that's the one you want to wire the wideband power to.

 

[FP3065TSI]

Got it going now. Thanks

I have a code 0135 for o2 sensor heater malfunction front.

 

[lil corb]

Got it going now. Thanks

I have a code 0135 for o2 sensor heater malfunction front.

Did you make sure the narrowband sim is checked and the correct input on link matches what you have the wideband wired into?

 

[TJCTalon]

Any one knows if the plx m300 uses the same o2 sensor as UEGO?

I think my o2 sensor is on the fritz and Im looking to fine a replacement sensor but cant find any info on getting one?

 

[Boostdriven]

This might be the sensor you need and if it isn't then just call those guys and they will be able to set you up with one.

Bosch LSU4.2 Wideband O2 Sensor

 

[dsmcurse]

Don't believe the AEM ugeo uses the same sensor as the PLX. Pretty sure they're differant. I had TERRIBLE luck with a UGEO thing. Could never ever trust it the wide band installed in my muffler at the dyno shop read a full point higher than the ugeo, the headunit (actual gauge) read a full point away from what was logging on the laptop. Had the mad scientist boostdriven himself trying to fix it. It was a lost cause. 2 differant honda friends of mine had the exact same problem as me and my DSM. Word of advice (I know 183 people are gonna flame me for this) stay the hell away from that wideband. I mean, AEM makes really great products, and the sensor used isn't even made by them, but in my opinion the AEM brains of it, the head unit is junk and they have the crappiest warrenty of all the widebands out there

 

[MY1GDSM]

I already wired in the grey wire to pin 75 rear o2 sensor and started to log it with link. I got it logged but the AFR in link doesnt match what the gauge is reading.

Taran, Just shot me a Email and I'll get this sorted out with you


As far as the last comment... The AEM w/b's are really crap... The update rate is SO Slow. I tend to get them logging just fine. But the Ground offsets they have it's never too simple and 99% of the time they are VERY far off from what the White papers say.

Just buy something like a Lc-1 People and save yourself a headache.