Please Recheck my Timing. Timing with Fidanza cam gears.

[BoostedBeaver]

The following Post explains in detail what I did to set my timing belt up on my 1990 Eagle Talon with Delta H272, Fidanza adjustable cam gears, and all new OEM Timing components.
I would make a list of tools but if you have gotten this far (reassembly) you should have everything you need besides the tensioner pulley tool (Allen key, 90* pliers, Miller or OEM Timing tool).

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/379574-my-timing-right.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...l-installing-timing-timing-belt-6bolt-2g.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...5-timing-belt-tensioning-tips-4g63-turbo.html

Timing Belt Checklist - Install

YouTube - DSM Graveyard 4g63 Timing Belt Tutorial

YouTube - 6-Bolt Mitsubishi Timing Belt Replacement

YouTube - 6-Bolt Mitsubishi Timing Belt Replacement Part 2

All links above as well as the factory service manual were used to educate myself to perform this install.

I have just put my motor together after a 6 month rebuild. Now that I have made it to the timing belt I just want to make sure that it is right. If you have done the timing countless times before please take a look and verify that my timing and information in this thread is correct. Also maybe this can be a thread to help those using the Fidanza cam gears.

Check to verify TDC of number one by using a long screw driver in the number one cylinder. Turn the crank clockwise until the object stops moving upward. Make sure the timing marks line up. This is especially important if you removed the back plate as it could be on backwards.

This is how the cam gears sat prior to any adjustments. The cams are Delta H272 with adjustable Fidanza cam gears. The intake cam timing mark is higher on than the exhaust mark. Everything that I have read said the exhaust should be the one that you have to move and the intake should be relatively flat. Please clarify this for me.

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Next I placed the belt over the exhaust cam gear and used large clips to hold the belt onto the cam gear. Using two 17mm wrenches, I rotated the intake cam until it was parallel with the head then with the same hand I rotated exhaust cam until it was in line with the intake cam gear. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!! THE FIDANZA CAM GEARS ARE OFF BY 1/2 TOOTH MEANING THE LINE ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE CAM GEAR (EXHAUST CAM TIMING MARK) IS OFF!!! IT IS LOWER THAN IT IS SUPPOSE TO BE!!! I CALLED FIDANZA AND THEY CONFIRMED THIS!!!! I then placed a large clip on the exhaust cam gear to hold the belt in place.

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After the belt was secure I placed the belt around the idler pulley.

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Next the Oil Pump gear was timed and the belt was placed around the gear. This can be a little tricky. I set the mark a little before they line up put the belt in place and then rotated the oil pump sprocket until the belt pops in place and the oil pump gear should be in time. KEEP IN MIND THAT MY BUILD HAS DELETED THE BALANCE SHAFTS THEREFOR THIS STEP IS NOT REQUIERED! THIS ALSO IS NOT ALL INCLUSIVE AS TO WHAT YOU HAVE TO DO IF YOU STILL HAVE BALANCE SHAFTS!! IF YOU HAVE BALANCE SHAFTS PLEASE PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE ABOVE LINKS FOR TIMMING THE OIL PUMP GEAR!!!

This picture is just before I tightened the belt

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This is a picture after the belt is around the crank and tight. Notice how the pulley turned just a bit.

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Next the crank pulley was set 1/2 before TDC. The belt was then placed over the pulley and the pulley was turned clockwise until the belt teeth fell into place putting the motor at TDC and the belt was tight up to this point.

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The belt was then placed around the tensioner pulley and the routing to the belt was complete.

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View the video link below to observe the timing belt installed around all pulleys and the timing marks aligned.
MVI_1390.mp4 video by robertbaxley03 - Photobucket

Now for tensioning!!! I used a 14mm socket on the bolt with a torque wrench. I then used the Allen key method to apply tension to the timing belt and causing the grenade pin to become loose and slide in and out with no effort.
I could not get the video of this to upload so here is the link.

MVI_1385.mp4 video by robertbaxley03 - Photobucket

Then the tension was held and the bolt was torque to 36ft. lbs. Be sure that if you are doing this on a 1g that you watch the center while you tighten the bolt so that the center does not rotate clockwise while you tighten the bolt. 2g guys, yours is opposite so make sure the right amount of tension says on the belt while tourqing.

Once this is complete wait 15 min. and check the pin again. If it is hard like in the next video link, you will have to redo the tension. I did this probably 6-8 times last night. The reason I waited was just to make sure that the tension was right to start with. If the pin becomes hard to move during this time, take a light and check to see if the pin is hitting the top of the hole in the tensioner rod or the bottom. If it is hitting the top there is too much tension, Bottom not enough tension.

MVI_1389.mp4 video by robertbaxley03 - Photobucket

After the Tension is correct rotate the CRANK 6 COMPLETE rotations. It will take this many rotations to make all timing marks line back up. Wait another 15 min. Again check the pin to make sure that it moves in and out with no effort. If it does not you will need to redo the tensioner pulley.

MVI_1391.mp4 video by robertbaxley03 - Photobucket

MVI_1403.mp4 video by robertbaxley03 - Photobucket

At this point take your 11/64 and 5/32 drill bit and measure the gap between the tensioner body and the tensioner arm. 5/32 should fit and the 11/64 should not. If this is not checking out you will need to redo the tensioner pulley. Once this checks out take the Grenade pin out and you are good to go.

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This is a video measuring the gap between the tensioner body and tensioner arm with a drill bit.
MVI_1404.mp4 video by robertbaxley03 - Photobucket



Please look at this one and clarify one thing for me. This is the way that the gap should be measured (flat with the tensioner surface) not like the first two (angled down to fit under the tensioner arm).

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Here is my problem. Every time I tighten the pulley it seems the pin always gets tight. Here is the video.MVI_1389.mp4 video by robertbaxley03 - Photobucket I will be redoing it once again tonight and if anyone has any input on what to do it would be much appreciated. Also if you look at the two above pics the first one is the 5/32 and shouldn't it be flat on the tensioner body? In this pic the bit is at an angle. If it was flat it would probably be out of spec. Please correct any information that you see misleading as I do not want to misinform others who are reading the post for information. ALL PICTURES AND VIDEOS ARE FROM THIS TIMING JOB. PLEASE TELL ME IF YOU SEE ANYTHING WRONG. Thanks in advance for your help and your advice.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Since I did mine with the engine still in the car I opted out of jamming drill bit ends into a dark blind space. Instead, I used no other tools than the grenade pin.

If your tensioner is set properly, after 15minutes, you should be able to freely move, remove and reinsert the grenade pin. Once you achieve this - pull the pin and walk away. Dramatically.

 

[BoostedBeaver]

Thanks for the reply and once I get it right I just might do that. If anyone has the answer to the drill bit question it will be much appreciated for me and other members her on the forum. Once again thank you PieEyedPiper for your reply.

 

[BrokenTsi]

I use the 11/64 drill bit and I make sure I can slip it in and out, not too tight, but not too loose. Just enough to catch it slightly. Everytime I do this, I can slip the pin back into the tensioner after rotating the engine twice and letting it sit for about an hour. The main thing is getting the proper torque specs on the tensioner pulley. This method has always worked for me.

 

[BoostedBeaver]

I use the 11/64 drill bit and I make sure I can slip it in and out, not too tight, but not too loose. Just enough to catch it slightly. Everytime I do this, I can slip the pin back into the tensioner after rotating the engine twice and letting it sit for about an hour. The main thing is getting the proper torque specs on the tensioner pulley. This method has always worked for me.

Thank you so much for the reply. I finished it up last night. The grenade pin was getting tight on me cause there was too much tension. I lossend the tension a little at a time until the pin would slip in and out and the 5/32 bit would fit but not the 11/64. Not to knock your post in any way and thanks for the reply but the 11/64 is on the loose end. Maybe this is being a little to anal about things. Once again thank you for the reply and in no way am I trying to knock your method of doing timing. Thanks again.

 

[BrokenTsi]

I'm extremely anal about it too. Some people crank on the tensioner pulley as hard as they can, and thats a big no-no.

As long as you can get the grenade pin back in after letting the engine sit and rotating it a few times, you're golden. Alot of people don't check this, and they end up running a timing belt thats too tight and parts start to fail.

 

[BoostedBeaver]

Yea that is what would have happened to me but now that I got it measured out with the drill bits I think Im good. Thanks again for the reply.