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Boost92gsx

10+ Year Contributor
76
0
Dec 27, 2009
erie, Pennsylvania
My 1992 gsx is vaccuming at -5 when it should vaccum at -20 and as soon as i hit 1 pound of boost the car fully stutters almost like a rev limit.. The car has been like this sence my alternator ampage regulator blew up my battery and all of my light bulbs to the car and multiple fuses.. also i just put another alternator on the car. Battery and alternator both tested ok but after ten hours or so battery will be dead. So car breaks up at about 3400 rpm and will not rev any higher. But in a neutral rev if i push the pedal about an eigth of the way down and hold it to were its increasing the rpms as slow as possible with 0 boost it will go all the way to max rpm but if i just do a wot it stutters and wont go past 3500 almost like a revlimit
 
My 1992 gsx is vaccuming at -5 when it should vaccum at -20 and as soon as i hit 1 pound of boost the car fully stutters almost like a rev limit.. The car has been like this sence my alternator ampage regulator blew up my battery and all of my light bulbs to the car and multiple fuses.. also i just put another alternator on the car. Battery and alternator both tested ok but after ten hours or so battery will be dead. So car breaks up at about 3400 rpm and will not rev any higher. But in a neutral rev if i push the pedal about an eigth of the way down and hold it to were its increasing the rpms as slow as possible with 0 boost it will go all the way to max rpm but if i just do a wot it stutters and wont go past 3500 almost like a revlimit

Its possible it may have messed something up with the ECU. Only thing i can think of since it happened only after the alternator pumped your car full of un necessary amperage.
 
thats what i was thinking but someone told me that it would have made the curcuit board visaly bad. leaking capacitor or burnt/fried markings. and looks fine
 
thats what i was thinking but someone told me that it would have made the curcuit board visaly bad. leaking capacitor or burnt/fried markings. and looks fine

It could be internal...cooked a trace, burned out a resistor or just goofed something up that you wouldnt be able to physically see. See if you know anyone that would let you swap one out just to see, whether its the cause or not, at least you can eliminate the possibility of it yknow?
 
yah ive been trying to find an ecu to borrow for like 3 minutes LOL. would hate to purchase one if thats not the problem.. is there anything i should look for or test anything. car starts right up and shifts/drives fine it just wont go over 3300-3600rpm
 
yah ive been trying to find an ecu to borrow for like 3 minutes LOL. would hate to purchase one if thats not the problem.. is there anything i should look for or test anything. car starts right up and shifts/drives fine it just wont go over 3300-3600rpm

Do you have a data logger to hook up? At least to see if everything is functioning properly. Do you have any CEL's?
 
No sir. i have no proggraming/data software

Hmm...well best thing to do then is just see if you can borrow an ECU just to plug in and see what happens.

Also, MAYBE it fried your injector resistor box. It sounds similar to the problem we had when we boosted my buddies integra, the 1000cc injectors they sent were supposed to be high impedance but were actually low impedance. Same kind of thing happened when we tried to rev it at over 20% or so throttle.
 
is there any way to check that? or tinker with LOL anything i can do to make it rev up fully like bypass anything just for a second to c if thats the problem??

I was just told by multiple dsm owners and they said that the ecu cannot in anyway control the vacuum of a car.. is this true. one said that for my car to b running the way it is that there has to b a serious boost leak around the turo (exhuast area)
 
I had it looked at today and he said the camshaft angly sensor or the ecu is bad.. does anyone know by the symptoms wich one?
 
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