Please help. Wont go into gear

[fourgsixthree33]

I've done a large amount of searching today. Going on hour number 18 of the day. About a month ago, I blew my engine (spun rod, oil return pipe broke). And, I cracked my bell housing. So I put in my friends 6 bolt with a low mileage 4g64 Spyder trans.

He had tranny issues with his 1g and ended up buying this Spyder trans. We put this motor and this trans in his car 4 months ago but we could never get it to go into gear while running the engine. We had a stripped bolt for the bell housing to block bolts. So we pulled the motor and trans back out to retap the hole. We never put it back into his 1g.

So then I am in need of a new motor and trans so we fix the bolt hole and put it in my 2g. After about 4 long hours, I was FINALLY able to bleed the slave cylinder. Took a long time as for whatever reason, my clutch pedal sucked. I eventually gravity bleed it and got the pedal near perfect.

Start the car, sti wont go in gear. I swapped my clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, fork, everything except the flyweel since this is a 6 bolt. Wont...go....in...gear. Only way I can is if I pump the clutch and then put it in gear. I almost have to jam it. I have only been able to get it in recerse a couple times.

Im stumped and out of ideas. There is a great deal riding on this car and I need it back on the road.

Again, the only things on this now that was also on it when it was in my friends 1g is the flyweel. I tried messing with with clutch pedal adjustment with no luck. Tried it a couple different ways. I am able to push the fork towards the slave cylinder just enough. So I think that is set correctly.

Please excuse my grammer errors. I am half asleep.

 

[mark 91 tsi]

Did you swap your shift cables to match the transmission? Take your cables off and try to shift it by hand at the transmission. If everything works at the transmission I would suspect it is your cables.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

There is air in it. As said on fb, you need to check for leaks (ie behind the rubber boots on master and slave ) its most likely a fail on one or both of thdm.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

It sounds like air or a leak to me too. That's assuming you did the pedal adjustment correctly. The pedal really shouldn't have needed adjustment after the changes you made, unless it was wrong before you changed the engine and transmission.

Other possibility would be a bent clutch disk that needs the PP to release further than the standard distance.

Edit: Other possibility would be too short of a step height on the flywheel.

 

[Black-Out]

Failed master, failed slave, air in system, broken,cracked, split, pedal assembly, pedal free play not adjusted properly at the master,bent,damaged,split or incorrect release fork preventing clutch dis-engagement,weakened,bulging or seeping clutch lines,and incorrect throw out bearing size are all causes for a sloppy pedal and little to no shifting allowance.......check em all starting with the most easily accessable.

Will-

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Did you swap your shift cables to match the transmission? Take your cables off and try to shift it by hand at the transmission. If everything works at the transmission I would suspect it is your cables.

It will shift properly when the engine is not running.

It sounds like air or a leak to me too. That's assuming you did the pedal adjustment correctly. The pedal really shouldn't have needed adjustment after the changes you made, unless it was wrong before you changed the engine and transmission.

Other possibility would be a bent clutch disk that needs the PP to release further than the standard distance.

Edit: Other possibility would be too short of a step height on the flywheel.

I was desperate when I decided to mess with the adjustment. I watched Jack's video before hand and learned quite a bit about it. Except I don't under stand turning the rod in whichever direction does what.

Failed master, failed slave, air in system, broken,cracked, split, pedal assembly, pedal free play not adjusted properly at the master,bent,damaged,split or incorrect release fork preventing clutch dis-engagement,weakened,bulging or seeping clutch lines,and incorrect throw out bearing size are all causes for a sloppy pedal and little to no shifting allowance.......check em all starting with the most easily accessable.

Will-

My master is leaking from the inside of the car. So it needs replaced. But I don't feel confident that this is what the cause of my issue is. I swapped in my friends 6 bolt and trans that he just had in his car, and coincidentally I am having the same problem he had? The only thing that is from his 1G (aside from the engine and trans) is the flywheel. Which I did not mess with before dropping the motor in mine.

All I did was pull the trans off, fix the stripped bolt hole, swap on my CLUTCH, THROW OUT BEARING, and FORK. Then I bolted up the trans to the block and dropped it in.

VIDEOS:
After installing the clutch fork and throw out bearing. (please watch this video closely)
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUOwCz6k7Z8[/ame]

Slave Cylinder-
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62dd4ITNZ4w]Dsm slave cyl - YouTube[/ame]

First start up (not related)
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cK5q8EA4TNc]Faline- first start up after 6 bolt swap - YouTube[/ame]

Engine running and trying to shift.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UmeRtrfX28]Faline after 6 bolt swap - YouTube[/ame]

 

[ef_junky]

you might try your master and slave first the slave is only like 26 something at advanced and master is 45 something mine was doing the same thing. I had to pump the hell out of it to get it to go in gear and i noticed it leaking from inside so i replaced both master and slave and it fixed it. The fly wheel i dont think would have anything to do with your car not going into gear it just give the means of getting the power from the engine to the clutch(from friction) to the drivetrain and starting the engine. It would not mess with the engagement and disengagement of the clutch.

 

[talon314]

Dealt with this for 3 weeks. You need to back pressure bleed the slave cylinder. instead of bleeding it with the pedal, crack the cap open on the master and manually bleed the slave by pushing the clutch fork against the slave.

 

[Black-Out]

You should definitely replace the master and slave first because it's to easy and they're suspect....but the only thing I would be curious about is the deck hight of the clutch assembly from the pressure plate face to the spring "fingers" where the throw out bearing does it's job......is there any free play on the pedal before you feel the clutch pressure? I watched the vids but the deal is just because the slave is moving doesn't mean it's moving far enough to disengage the clutch enough to allow you to get it in gear.

you may have needed to use the fork from the 6 bolt sense you had to use the 6 bolt flywheel. There may be a difference in deck hight from a 6 bolt to a 7 bolt flywheel and you may have just overlooked it- That said swapping in a 6 bolt clutch fork may solve it all together, but I'd still replace the master and slave. It's just one less thing you gotta worry about.....

Will-

 

[fourgsixthree33]

you might try your master and slave first the slave is only like 26 something at advanced and master is 45 something mine was doing the same thing. I had to pump the hell out of it to get it to go in gear and i noticed it leaking from inside so i replaced both master and slave and it fixed it. The fly wheel i dont think would have anything to do with your car not going into gear it just give the means of getting the power from the engine to the clutch(from friction) to the drivetrain and starting the engine. It would not mess with the engagement and disengagement of the clutch.

Here is a thought. Mix matching the clutch and flywheel. I used my clutch and pressure plate from my 7 bolt. Would the "wear pattern" difference in the pressure plate and the flywheel cause anything like this to happen?

Dealt with this for 3 weeks. You need to back pressure bleed the slave cylinder. instead of bleeding it with the pedal, crack the cap open on the master and manually bleed the slave by pushing the clutch fork against the slave.

This i definitely something I will be doing first.

You should definitely replace the master and slave first because it's to easy and they're suspect....but the only thing I would be curious about is the deck hight of the clutch assembly from the pressure plate face to the spring "fingers" where the throw out bearing does it's job......is there any free play on the pedal before you feel the clutch pressure? I watched the vids but the deal is just because the slave is moving doesn't mean it's moving far enough to disengage the clutch enough to allow you to get it in gear.

you may have needed to use the fork from the 6 bolt sense you had to use the 6 bolt flywheel. There may be a difference in deck hight from a 6 bolt to a 7 bolt flywheel and you may have just overlooked it- That said swapping in a 6 bolt clutch fork may solve it all together, but I'd still replace the master and slave. It's just one less thing you gotta worry about.....

Will-

Interesting, never thought about the fork.

This is my gameplan. Order a new slave and master. Meanwhile, I will bleed the slave as mentioned. If it still wont work, I will check the pedal adjustment. I watched the following video and it really educated me. If it still doesn't work, I will remove the master so I am ready for when the new one comes in. Sound good?

Jafro is the man!
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPKngQ54yJs&list=PL4B97C16D423317DD&index=8]Trans & Clutch 8 - Adjust the Clutch - YouTube[/ame]

 

[Colt4G63 also]

The forks and step height are the same between 6 bolt and 7 bolt engines. If you are leaking fluid inside the car, you found your problem. In the second video, the slave moves out part way but then when you start pumping, it extends fully. Not sure if you are able to get it to stay fully extended or if the fluid just squishes out into the car. Other thing I noticed was the steel line flexing up and down; is the slave bolted tightly to the belhousing?

 

[fourgsixthree33]

The forks and step height are the same between 6 bolt and 7 bolt engines. If you are leaking fluid inside the car, you found your problem. In the second video, the slave moves out part way but then when you start pumping, it extends fully. Not sure if you are able to get it to stay fully extended or if the fluid just squishes out into the car. Other thing I noticed was the steel line flexing up and down; is the slave bolted tightly to the belhousing?

Referring to the video of the slave. I bled the system the night before this video. Then in the morning, I went out and took this video. In this video, it was the first time I pushed the clutch in since letting the car sit over night. When I pushed it, it went the the floor and stuck there. Then i pumped the pedal and got the pressure back. That is why the beginning of this video is so weird.

And good eye with the hard line moving. One of the bolt holes on the slave is snapped off. This is not the first time this has happened and has worked like this before. I would have purchased one already but the parts stores are closed due to new years. Ordering one tomorrow regardless if the car is drivable.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I'm pretty confident a new slave and master will solve your problem.

When you do the adjustment, (with the pedal fully up) adjust the rod longer until you can't push the slave in with your fingers. Then shorten the rod just enough that you can push the slave in with your fingers. That will give you proper adjustment.

If there's any question that the pedal is going up fully, address that before you adjust the master rod. For instance, I was able to get far more stroke out of my pedal by adjusting the switch for my cruise cut out. The switch was adjusted all the way down, so when I adjusted it up, my pedal also came up much farther. After doing this, I had to readjust my master rod. By doing this, my clutch engagement point moved from, right near the floorboard, to a few inches above the floorboard.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

I'm pretty confident a new slave and master will solve your problem.

When you do the adjustment, (with the pedal fully up) adjust the rod longer until you can't push the slave in with your fingers. Then shorten the rod just enough that you can push the slave in with your fingers. That will give you proper adjustment.

If there's any question that the pedal is going up fully, address that before you adjust the master rod. For instance, I was able to get far more stroke out of my pedal by adjusting the switch for my cruise cut out. The switch was adjusted all the way down, so when I adjusted it up, my pedal also came up much farther. After doing this, I had to readjust my master rod. By doing this, my clutch engagement point moved from, right near the floorboard, to a few inches above the floorboard.

Wow, great information.

Since I watched the above video, I know exactly what you are talking about. I will be sure to adjust the switch before adjusting the master rod.

I will be sure to take some more videos tomorrow. I will do some messing around with the adjustment and other things while the master and slave are ordered.

UPDATE:

Ordered a slave and master cylinder. They will be in tomorrow morning. Today I messed with the master adjustment rod and the clutch switch. Then reblead the system. I can now put the car in first gear, but not reverse. Hopefully the new slave and master fix the problem.

Clutch adjustment
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPtzIZfzlP8]Faline- clutch pedal adjustment - YouTube[/ame]

Slave cyl- holding the pedal down
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPlT9ihPW_o[/ame]

 

[Bud92gsx]

Linkage was double/triple checked to make sure it's not too tight, causing it not to be able to go into gear?

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Pulling my trans off tomorrow so I can install a shim on the pivot ball. I have been talking to Jafromobile (famous dsm tech article dude from youtube) and he has been watching my videos. He said my problem was not the hydraulic system and need to put in the shim. I am still getting the master/clutch cylinder tomorrow as well.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I really hope you plan on changing the slave and master first and adjusting the master rod before jerking out the tranny. Be pretty stupid not too. Again, if you can pump the clutch to get it in gear it IS A HYDRAULIC PROBLEM.

Pumping the pedal doesn't magically add shims or adjust your pedal to make it get in gear. If you can still pump it into gear its a hydraulic issue without doubt. I don't care what the youtube king says. Your wasting your time pulling the tranny if you don't fix the hydraulic system and properly adjust your pedal FIRST.

In case your still confused adjusting the master cylinder rod into the master farther is bringing the engagement off the floor and closer to the top. Into the pedal engages it closer to the floor.

I'll post on fb to to be sure you get this.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

I no longer have to pump the clutch to get it into gear. I can get it in first now, but not reverse. First isnt perfect and still have to slightly force it in, but it does go in. This change was after adjusting the clutch switch and master rod.

Something that doesnt make sense to me, my fork sits towards the driver side in the fork hole like it is supposed to. So this would tell me shims are not needed, right?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Correct no shims are need. Its the master or slave.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

FIXED! Replaced the master and slave and she went right in gear. I drove it home. Knock sensor is broke (had one sent to me today), valve cover gasket needs replaced as I am leaking oil like a sob, TB needs to be replaced since the fiav blockoff plate is leaking very bad (putting the one on I previously used), speedo doesnt work since the sensor is broken, aftermarket temp gauge is no longer working so I have to look into that, Im sure there is tons more. But, shes home and I dont have to find a ride 30 mins away to work on her.

Thanks for all the help fella's!

 

[Colt4G63 also]

You are welcome. Glad you didn't have to pull the transmission out.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

So am I! Such a relief.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Glad its fixed. Good job.

 

[zise ex]

i am literally having this exact problem, i ordered a master cylinder and it will be here tomorrow i alrwady installed a new slave. hope this works for me as well

 

[Bud92gsx]

Auto FTW..You dropped the ball getting this 5 speed AJ.