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PLEASE HELP.. new clutch

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1990talondsm

15+ Year Contributor
86
0
Aug 3, 2007
slidell, Louisiana
just put in a new clutch and resurface the flywheel, not sure of brand. its a 4 puck kevlar and a purple pressure plate. the clutch is in and now it wont go into 1st, 3rd or reverse. its just grinding. the only way it goes in is if i turn the car off and put it in gear. the slave cylinder seems to have some play in it when i am pushing on it under the car. it was never doing this before the new clutch. please please help:pray:
 
Have you bled the system? It sounds like air in the lines. Also, have you looked at the slave cylinder engage/disengage when someone else pushes and releases the clutch pedal? If so, does the clutch fork move freely back and forth? If all this looks good, you may have gear shifter linkage problems.
 
Did you adjust the linkage underneith the dash? I just finished putting my motor together and had somehwhat the same problem(was really hard to go in gear) and I just adjust the linkage and its all better.
It is recommended to adjust each time the clutch and flywheel are replaced/pulled
 
When my ACT TOB blew apart I had the same issues. So maybe it has to do with the clutch fork and what not. The reason its grinding is your clutch is not being disengaged.

Like stated above check you pivot ball see if it needed to be shimmed or that your TOB was installed correctly. Make sure your clutch fork is in the middle of the window in your transmission. If its not centered we can go from there.
 
Did you adjust the linkage underneith the dash? I just finished putting my motor together and had somehwhat the same problem(was really hard to go in gear) and I just adjust the linkage and its all better.
It is recommended to adjust each time the clutch and flywheel are replaced/pulled

The adjustment under the dash has nothing to do with putting in a different clutch. That is for getting the master cylinder adjusted correctly with the pedal. Once that is adjusted correctly, you don't need to ever do it again unless your pedal or master cylinder is replaced. The only way that would need to be readjusted is if it just wasn't correct to begin with, like you were trying to make up for a bad master or slave cylinder by adjusting it wrong.



Did you bleed the system thoroughly?
 
the slave cylinder was just unbolted so i wouldn't have to bleed it. im not sure about the fork pivot. I know I didnt shim it. is there any way of doing that with out removeing the trans again. Its a mitsu TOB and it was centered. the fork is moving when the clutch is pushed in but im not sure what is the right distance. Also not sure how much was taken off flywheel. I will try to see if fork is in the middle but car is now an hour and a half away from me
 
Is there anyway it could be the slave cylinder. its moving but it has a good bit of play in it. it moves in and out with me under the car, car not running, so should there be any movment in it at all
 
You should be able to move the slave towards the clutch fork a little with your finger, if you can't then you have it adjusted out too far and will trash a tob real quick....ask me how I know.

It's quite possible that you need to shim your clutch fork pivot ball since they shaved a little off your flywheel, but I would try to adjust your pedal assembly first and go from there.
 
I adjusted it under the dash the farthest it would go out with stoping the slave cylinder, followed jacks racing. the slave cylinder moves an inch if not more on its own. do I have to take out the trans to shim it, by some sweet grace of god please say no:pray:
 
so the right thing to do would be shim the pivot :( is there a getto way to fix it with out taken out the trans

ya what the guy above you said, you might get enough pedal travel if you cut some of the carpet out under the clutch pedal -- if that will get you into gear every time id do it before id go aftr the tranny again any day -- did that on my sisters M3 and its gonna buy me enough time till summer comes and i can throw it on my lift and DO IT AGAIN YESSSSSSSSSSSS LOL
 
Did you check to see if your clutch fork was centered in the window? If so you will know if you have to shim the pivot ball.

If not you have to pull your tranny and shim your pivot ball. I would not try to fix the problem any other way. Just do it right the 1st time.
 
I cant see if the fork is centered cause the car is at my parents house and I just moved more than an hour and a half away cause I couldn't drive it up here yet.I thought I had heard something about a longer rod for the slave. can you order one or have to have it custom made. when I get to the car again I will cut carpet and see if it is possible to take a little material out of the trans where the fork is to give it more travel. I cant take the trans out at my new apartment so any way around taking the trans out will be helpful
 
They are band aid fixes if you don't want other things to fail or put extra stress on things you need to do it the right way. Next thing you will see is a blown slave or master with things like extented rods. You need to check if your fork is centered and then you will realize if it needs to be shimmed. I can't see the carpet as a fix to your fork being out of spec. I ran into this same problem you can try to fix it every other way or just shim the pivot ball.

Your fork could be out of spec so far that its hitting the belt house.

Just my .02
 
The fork is a little to the left so its not centered. I took off the rubber cover and got some more travel out of it, enough to get 3rd gear back and 1st sometime. STM makes a longer push rod for slave. does anyone know of this working.
 
I have never used the extened rod i just adjusted mine under the dash. You may need to take the trans out, no majic way hard to tell. I would take it out and inspect everything. Not knowing the clutch brand could cause problems down the road, it could be made by anyone.
 
A purple pressure plate means it's most likely a ZOOM clutch. We sell them at my work. They are comparable to Fidanza as far as I know. You should not have to adjust much because the hydraulic system on DSM's are self adjusting. Bleed the system. I know you said you just unbolted the slave but once you unbolt the slave you lose pressure. No, I can't remember how, I'm sorry. But bleed, bleed, bleed. If that's not it, check for a bad slave or master. Since it's not going into 1st, 3rd or reverse, you might try adjusting your shifter linkage/cables. May be off just a hare. Whatever you do, do not get an extended slave rod. I have one and all it's good for is siting in my tool box. They cause more problems than fixes.
 
I just finished putting the trans back in with the pivot ball shimed till the fork was a little passed the middle towards the driver side. It still wont go into first and if I turn the car off and put it in first it just pops out. I adjusted the clutch under the dash with no real results. Is there a way to adjust the shifter cables. how can you tell if slave is bad? mine seems to be solid. or do you think I will have to shim it some more :ohdamn:
 
Man I had some super crappy problems like you're having. I pulled and reinstalled my trans 2 times in 3 days. First I returned my old master and slave cylinders since they were still under warranty (autozone) then I bought a longer slave and that didn't work, so then I shimmed the pivot ball and that didn't work, so I finally cut the carpet and pad out and now it works, but the engagement is close to the floor.

I'm betting that my problem is the aftermarket master and slave cylinders, since Jack from jacks-transmissions swears against then, but I was dead broke and didn't have money for the oem ones. If it ever goes out again though I'm definitely buying oem.
 
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