PLEASE HELP.. new clutch

[1990talondsm]

just put in a new clutch and resurface the flywheel, not sure of brand. its a 4 puck kevlar and a purple pressure plate. the clutch is in and now it wont go into 1st, 3rd or reverse. its just grinding. the only way it goes in is if i turn the car off and put it in gear. the slave cylinder seems to have some play in it when i am pushing on it under the car. it was never doing this before the new clutch. please please help

 

[1990talondsm]

I was told that the clutch material could be in backwards. I was not the one that installed the clutch originally. Doea anyone know of the symptoms for this?

 

[habitatguy187]

If it's a sprung disc it's not possible to put it in backwards. And if it's an un-sprung disc it doesn't matter which way it's installed iirc, I should remember as I just put an un-sprung disc in my buddy's 2g, but I don't

 

[1990talondsm]

it is a sprung disk. I have already cut the carpet and extended the pedal as far as possible. It never did this before if changed out the clutch and resurfaced the flywheel.

 

[habitatguy187]

Man it sounds like the next thing to do is get a new OEM master and slave. I know they're expensive but you've already tried everything else. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[1990talondsm]

HOW CAN i TELL IF THE MASTER AND SLAVE ARE BAD. neither one is leaking and the slave moves when the clutch is depressed

 

[livedsm4g63]

Is your pedal assembly welded? If not you might have just enough play in that for it to not disengage. Right now mine grabs off the floor about an inch and my master and slave are all good, and i have a welded pedal assembly from shep. I also have braided line from the master to the slave. I called shep up and they said that since i got my master cylinder from autozone it was probably bored out and now it wont push as much fluid as an oem. He also said that one person went through 6 master cylinders from autozone and finally ordered an oem one and it fix everything. My 2 cents is to get an oem.

 

[1990talondsm]

The clutch grabs about an inch off the floor and my assembly is not welded. MY main question is how do I tell if the slave is bad. Is the a minimum distance it should travel. And has any one used an extended rod with success. I cant see the extended rod working cause it seems that it would be putting pressure on the clutch to release all the time. my Slave worked good before the clutch swap.

 

[iwillnotbleed]

I had the same prolems with my eclipse. And being that you put in a 4 puck clutch means that you will have pressure plate springs that are more stiff than stock. When this happened to me I replaced the slave and master with the OEM parts. I got a braided clutch line so I would have no flex. And most importantly, I sent my pedal assembly to Shep and got it rebuilt/welded. I have no more problems. I know it doesn't seem like it but the "z-bar" or linkage for the clutch pedal (assembly) gives A LOT of play when a hi-performance clutch is installed because of the pressure plate. My suggestion would be to get the assembly welded. And this is up to you but I have heard both good and bad things when people weld it themselves. I have NEVER seen a complaint from anyone who got it professionaly welded, i.e. sheptrans. Hope this helps. Oh, and don't use an extenssion rod. All it does is give headache's (and take up space in my tool box, ).

 

[1990talondsm]

I wont use the extesin cause i didn't think it would do the trick. I guess ill try the pedal assembly cause it is moving more than half an inch upward after pressing int the clutch than maybe replace the master and slave. and see what happens. DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A FORUM ON HOW TO REPLACE THE PEDAL ASSEMBLY SO IM NOT WALKIN IN THE BLIND.

 

[iwillnotbleed]

Not sure what you mean by "replace", but if you need to get the assembly out of the car look up "clutch pedal" in the forums. I'm sure you'll find what you need.

 

[CLEANest98GSX]

replace master and slave cylinder and then bleed the system. if that does not work it could either be the throw out bering/fork and pin

 

[1990talondsm]

TOB is brand new OEM and fork and pivit are both good. When they talk about welding the pedal assembly do you know what they mean. There is alot of play in the pedal assembly so I think that could be the problem

 

[iwillnotbleed]

Ok. If you push your clutch in and then grab the pedal and pull it towards the drivers seat/roof of the vehicle it should not have any play. If it does, your linkage is worn. Again it's a common problem with a stiff pressure plate. If you look at the second pic in this link, it shows that linkage after it has been welded. A stock linkage will have a square fitting at the end of the shaft that holds the linkage on it. It's hard to explain, but if you take it apart you'll see what I'm talking about.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-drivetrain/156805-1g-clutch-pedal-welding-bushing-how.html

 

[1990talondsm]

thanks for the link. Im in the middle of takin the pedals out. I can pull it up a good bit and I have had stiff pressure plates in the car since I had it so im pretty sure thats the problem. I never would have guessed that it would be the pedals.

 

[iwillnotbleed]

No problem. That is one of the weak links on a 1g. You're gonna love the feel of it after you get it welded. . I know I did. If anymore problems come up, let me know and I'll help you out the best I can. Good luck.

 

[1990talondsm]

I now have the pedals out and was wondering how to tell if there is alot of play in the pedals cause with them in the car after pressing the pedal a couple time I could still pull up on the pedal. Now that I have it out of the car the doesn't seem to be any play in the clutch assembly. where should the play be coming from exactly.

 

[1990talondsm]

just got pedals back from Shep Trans, put them in and nothing has changed. its only first that it wont go into. The only pieces left in the puzzle are the slave and master that I can think of. I adjusted to master cylinder rod all the way out and all the way in and both times the slave didn't seem to auto adjust. could this be a bad master cylinder. Does anyone know the symptoms for the clutch disk being backwards or how to tell if it is damaged?

 

[1990talondsm]

put in a home made extended slave rod and adjusted the pedals some more and now it goes into 1st but if I don't baby it in fist gear it pops out ever time. I have as mush throw on the shifter as possible. Its a 91 or later trans if that makes a difference. Do you think it could still be the clutch not releasing fully.

 

[habitatguy187]

After spending lots of money and at least 25 hours of my time (11hr drive included), I've given up. The only things I haven't done is replace my flywheel, pivot ball, or clutch fork. I did everything else you can think of, tried bleeding every way you can (even reverse bled, which works great btw), even talked to Shep to see if he had any suggestions that I hadn't tried yet. Anyway, OP if you want to keep your car, I'd save up and buy a complete new clutch assembly, replace all of it.