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Overheat on freeway?

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my dreamt dsm

15+ Year Contributor
3,306
34
Jan 29, 2007
Somewhere In, California
Search water pump failure and over heat on freeway but didn't come up with much.
I'm about to go on a 160 mile trip and wonder if my car was up to the task.

Around town driving I show no indication of overheating. coolant needle stays right in the middle. But as I drive on the freeway I see it hoover around the 1/3rd mark. I thought more air rushing in should of been less heat.
The problem occurred when I change it to the c/x racing rad. Never had a problem with the stock one before it cracked on the outlet pipe entering the thermostat.
Evoscan show's normal temp when driving around town.
Any insights?
 
Do you have an FMIC?
Do you have ducting to force air into the rad (after passing through the FMIC).
Air takes the path of least resistance so if you've got wide open spaces, air will flow through there and not your radiator.
 
I'm kinda fighting with this right now, too. However, mine doesn't overheat, but it runs hotter than I'd like it to at freeway speeds. (213-219º) After switching to an aftermarket radiator to no avail, I'm now looking into better ducting for the air....

I also have a FMIC on there.
 
Do you have an FMIC?
Do you have ducting to force air into the rad (after passing through the FMIC).
Air takes the path of least resistance so if you've got wide open spaces, air will flow through there and not your radiator.

I'm kinda fighting with this right now, too. However, mine doesn't overheat, but it runs hotter than I'd like it to at freeway speeds. (213-219º) After switching to an aftermarket radiator to no avail, I'm now looking into better ducting for the air....

I also have a FMIC on there.

Yeah I do have a front mount. But problem never happen with the stock rad. I'm sure it's not the c/x rad either.
 
I fully agree with the second post on a cooling duct set up. I run a vrspeed fmic, aluminum rad, 160 stat with holes drilled in it and I still can see a 200 degree temp on the highway, but only on the highway on an average summer day. Take your bumper off and take a rip down the highway I promise you your intake temps will drop, duct work is the way to go.
 
Im having the same issues. Im going to replace the thermostat first and gaskets though. I know alot of people running this cx racing radiator with zero issues.
 
Seen a guy at the dsm/evo shootout use dryer duct work to funnel air in before . It was pretty clean and clever. Just a suggestion
 
There is other methods for sealing huge gaps than mine but I have great results.

My FMIC sits in front of the condensor but has a huge gap about 4 inches between cores that air could easily flow around and not cool things as intended. I went to the hardware store and picked up an 8' stick of 3/4" pipe insulation which has a guesstimated OD of maybe 4/5". It forms very well to irregularites since it's made of foam and was only $2

Not sure how long it's going to last, but it's cheap enough to try
 
I dont have time to pull up the link but there is a guy on here who custom fabricated his own sheet metal duct work behind the rad and put 2 puller fans on the back side of the rad. The idea was to direct the air through the sheet metal channel and out through the hood. It has promising results, I believe he auto xed or something to that effect and had no problems cooling. Look at a Ford GT/GT40 they have the same set up. I know its extensive work but its extremely effective.
 
I moved the plate upward to avoid hassle from cops. I have new thermostat also along with coolant sensor.
I'll probably fab something under the car and gaps between the rad, condensor and front mount.
 
I moved the plate upward to avoid hassle from cops. I have new thermostat also along with coolant sensor.
I'll probably fab something under the car and gaps between the rad, condensor and front mount.
 
Did you re bleed the coolant system again?
I had that problem it was a small crack in the turbo coolant line
I made these cheesy ducts and run 198-202 at most
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